DNAARISTO

What up CL,
I finally replaced my all of my front end suspension parts. I thought I would make a post that lists the part numbers, quality of the parts ordered, and how much every thing costs. I replaced everything because there were too many unknowns about the car when I bought it. Along with the steering wheel shimmering and the tires were not aligned. The Upper ball joints were loose and the Upper control ARM bushings were cause a clunking when turning the steering wheel. I wanted to be on the safe side and change it all before a bigger problem comes, like a ball joint failure. Pm me if interested in the OEM Lower Control Arms

I ordered all my parts from RockAuto and used a 5% discount that I found on retailmenot.com. cost shipped to my door was $548.50. It could have been cheaper if I would have went with Raybestos Upper Control Arms instead of the Moog.

Parts List: RK620336 & RK620335
Moog Upper Control Arms. Made in Taiwan no Japan like the Balljoints. In my opinion, Raybestos is in Taiwan and is $40 cheaper per are than Moog. The quality appears to be good, and they appear to be of the same thickness as OEM.





















Moog Lower Ball Joints
K500101 & K500102
Stamped Made in Japan. Sankei 555. With Zerk Fittings

















Moog Outer Tie Rods
ES80585 & ES80584
Moog embossed Rubber boot with zerk Fittings.

















Raybestos Inner Tie Rods (Service Grade) 401-2103B
Went with Raybestos because they were cheaper than Moog and I figures the quality couldn't be that different. When.it arrives I was surprised on how well it was built. My driverside inner was bent and the ball & socket was terribly loose.













Lastly Raybestos Lower Control Arms
Stamped Made in Taiwan, bushings look sturdy and durable.

Fr33way

This is great information, thanks for posting.

NorthStyle

iTrader: (16)

Looks good. How are you liking the feel of the front end after all of the new replacements and alignment? I'm actually about to do the exact same thing front and rear...

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

Thanks for the info... you forgot to add Caster Arms #2... not sure if u need to replace them or you already have but that is where the majority of the steering shake comes from... I see your bent tie rod so all these parts will definitely make an improvement...

01LEXPL

iTrader: (10)

Always go with moog where applicable, especially on wear & tear items

I just had one of my LBJ's replace 'under warranty' since it was a little loose. Moog honors their parts.

No need for receipts or anything.

NorthStyle

iTrader: (16)

tmf bro, do you know if MOOG makes this part? I've looked around and all I seem to find are OEM or other aftermarket pieces...

shboni

iTrader: (2)

Don't see Castor Arm #2.......That's the main one I would replace

Others I didn't see : Sway bar end links and bushing
Steering rack bushing

shboni

iTrader: (2)

I don't think Moog makes Castor arm #2....would be awesome thou, so I wouldn't have to shell out $280 something to swell for two new arms

So only options for that is:

Swell: for two brand new Castor arms
ROCA: for castor arm bushings

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

i think you have to go OEM from Sewell... Price isn't to bad with our discount..

DNAARISTO

I haven't replaced those bushings yet. But will update when I do. Thanks

DNAARISTO

The front end is nice and tight. And the plus the clunking is gone. All I need is coilovers now and the caster ARM bushings. I am mad though because I had my alignment done after and the guy only adjusted my camber, but he did not adjust my tie rods to center the steering wheel, so I have to hold left on the steering alittle to correct while driving

DNAARISTO

No problem

DNAARISTO

I will upload my alignment specs ASAP

l3xyota

Where were the tie rod ends made?

DNAARISTO

If you look at the pictures for the tie rod ends box. I just noticed one box says made in Japan, the other says made in the USA. But both appear to be the same