Replacing inner and outer tie rods..
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
iTrader: (-3)
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Nevada
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Replacing inner and outer tie rods..
I'll be doing this tomorrow
Tips and suggestion will be helpful..
Thanks everyone..
Ps: ball joints,upper control arm and all bushings has been replaced..
Tips and suggestion will be helpful..
Thanks everyone..
Ps: ball joints,upper control arm and all bushings has been replaced..
#5
On the tie rod end, make sure before removing to mark the thread either with a sharp object where you remove it and replace the same way. Make sure the orientation is correct (facing upward or downward). After repair may still need alignment.
#6
Account under Legal Action - Banned
iTrader: (2)
When replacing the tie rod, I cannot stress enough to use the right tools. When replacing them you need an inner tie rod removal tool. The reason I stress this is because you need to use a torque wrench to torque everything back to spec.
Its pretty much straight forward and even if you mark off the nut that stops the outer tie rod -- you'll still need an alignment. It will be necessary. Simple steps for removal -- remove wheel, remove outer tie rod from spindle/hub with a pitman puller, then remove the outer tie rod, mark off the nut, then remove the boot, then theres a lock washer tab that you need to remove from the locking position, use a hammer and a flat head screwdriver. Once the lock washer is unlocked, you slide on your inner removal tool and it comes out. Put everything back in order of removal. Make sure to lock the washer. Torque to spec.
Just because your wheel moves at 12-6 and 3-9 doesn;t mean its your tie rod -- it could be your bearings.
Also an easier way to check inner tie rods is to remove the outer tie rod from the spindle/knucle and from the inner tie rod side. Then just move the inner tie rod up, down, front to back and it should 'stay' in whatever position you put it in. If it drops, or slowly falls from pos. A to pos. B e.g. then you need to have them replaced.
Its pretty much straight forward and even if you mark off the nut that stops the outer tie rod -- you'll still need an alignment. It will be necessary. Simple steps for removal -- remove wheel, remove outer tie rod from spindle/hub with a pitman puller, then remove the outer tie rod, mark off the nut, then remove the boot, then theres a lock washer tab that you need to remove from the locking position, use a hammer and a flat head screwdriver. Once the lock washer is unlocked, you slide on your inner removal tool and it comes out. Put everything back in order of removal. Make sure to lock the washer. Torque to spec.
Just because your wheel moves at 12-6 and 3-9 doesn;t mean its your tie rod -- it could be your bearings.
Also an easier way to check inner tie rods is to remove the outer tie rod from the spindle/knucle and from the inner tie rod side. Then just move the inner tie rod up, down, front to back and it should 'stay' in whatever position you put it in. If it drops, or slowly falls from pos. A to pos. B e.g. then you need to have them replaced.
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post