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Old 05-10-14, 09:09 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FSPORTJC View Post
I thought the H-Tech were equivalent to the RS-R Down Springs.. and the S-Tech being more of a drop than the Downs.. Slightly higher than the RS-R Super Down Springs...
I made this comparison up.. should clear things in terms of drops.

TEIN H TECH

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TEIN S TECH

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TEIN Street Flex Coilovers

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TANABE NF210

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RSR HALF DOWN

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RSR DOWN

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RSR SUPER DOWN

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RSR Super I - Coilovers

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RSR Luxury Best - Coilovers

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HKS Hipermax IV GT

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Old 05-11-14, 10:45 PM   #107
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So I'm trying to get these for my 350 awd but not sure if they are compatible can someone confirm this for me please? http://www.tein.com/price/lexus.html the site doesn't list anything about the AWD version just "2wd" so are they in fact only for the 2wd?

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Old 05-14-14, 06:53 AM   #108
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Anyone have S-Techs with 20" wheels without any fender modifications? Does it rub?
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Old 05-14-14, 05:24 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ISDAS View Post
I made this comparison up.. should clear things in terms of drops.
I know a couple of those are IS250 cars in there. It will make a significant difference from IS250 to IS350 so you have to make sure all models are the same to compare accurately.

Quote:
Originally Posted by amoney805 View Post
Im confused as to why the drop for 250 is more than the 350. The added weight from the larger v6 makes me think it would get the extra 2mm drop.
I wondered this too. I contacted Tein yesterday and they confirmed that they made a mistake on their website and they reversed the specifications between the IS250 and the IS350 on their website. The Stech on the IS350 lowers 1.4/1.0 and the IS250 1.2/1.0 and the Htech on the IS350 lowers 1.0/0.6 and the IS250 0.8/0.6.

It also appears the Tein Mono Sport coilovers are now available in Japan and should be available here soon with a part number GSQ74-71AS3.

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Old 05-15-14, 07:28 PM   #110
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bhvrdr, you could then factor in guys with aftermarket rims - or AWD etc etc

atleast this guys you a basic idea - up to the individual to read the actual specs per the actual vehicle they are ordering them for.

better than 0.
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Old 05-19-14, 06:43 AM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sternb818 View Post
Anyone have S-Techs with 20" wheels without any fender modifications? Does it rub?
I have a set of velgen 19 inch on my car with 235 /35 in the front and 265/30 in the rear. I have a little bit of room. And I actually had a friend put his 20 inch vossens on my car and it was fine made the drop look way better I have the tien S techs vey comfortable ride. Only problem I've been having the alignment issues. The camber is off the rear and seem like there is no rear camber arms avaiable bit I haven't had an abnormal tire wear yet and it's been 5 k miles
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Old 12-06-14, 09:31 AM   #112
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iam looking at :

19x9.5 front 235/35/19
19x10.5 rears 275/30/19

43 offset

will S tech give me any issues?

help is appreciated! thank you
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Old 12-21-14, 03:53 PM   #113
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Had Teins on 4 a Month...No Complaints at all..Grt8 Fit! !
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Old 12-21-14, 03:56 PM   #114
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Make Sure u go to the right Profesional Shop 4 Install. ..
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Old 12-21-14, 03:57 PM   #115
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Rsr's 2 Low low 4 my Choice..2 each is Own. Do Research :
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Old 01-23-15, 07:02 AM   #116
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I went with RS-R Down Springs from redline360.com for $279 shipped.
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Old 01-26-15, 08:34 PM   #117
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Tanabe just finished prototyping NF210 springs on my car today. 1.3" drop front, 1.1" drop rear.

For 2015 IS350 RWD base model

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 01-28-15, 11:21 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CLUM View Post
Tanabe just finished prototyping NF210 springs on my car today. 1.3" drop front, 1.1" drop rear.

For 2015 IS350 RWD base model

Click the image to open in full size.
This is the best drop imo. OEM setup is higher in the front and this setup evens out the suspension perfectly.
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Old 01-29-15, 04:18 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IS350S2K View Post
Thought I would write a brief writeup on how I installed these springs. I signed up (2 days) at https://techinfo.toyota.com and printed out the service manual instructions. They let you download other items in PDF but unfortunately not the service manual. I basically followed the procedures for one side which took me a longer time to do and then was much faster on the other side.

Disclaimer: I'm not a mechanic by trade but like to work on cars. With that said, I'm not responsible for any damage that may occur if you decide to follow my writeup. Also, I am not going to mention socket sizes below but you will use mainly 17mm and 19mm.

Tools used:
1. Sockets and socket wrench
2. Breaker bar
3. Spring compressor
4. Torque wrenches
5. Ball joint separator tool
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The TEIN springs (Part number: SKQ74-AUB00:
Click the image to open in full size.

I did the rear first but will start the writeup with the front.

Fronts (procedure same for both sides)
1. Chock rear wheels. You can choose not to and leave it up to the e-brake but I do it anyways
.
2. Loosen front lugs.

3. Jack up front of car. I used the center jack point and placed jack stands on the sides on the inside of the pinch weld location.

4. Remove front wheel.

5. Separate skid control sensor wire and remove upper swaybar link (red arrow). Pic shows bolts removed. If you want to get the wire completely out of the way, you can disconnect the end of the cable from the spindle but I couldn't figure out how to remove it. Didn't have any problems just leaving the wire connected and had plenty of room.
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6. Remove front upper suspension arm assembly. Remove the clip and nut.
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7. Attach ball joint separator tool and detach ball joint from suspension arm. I had a jack underneath the lower suspension arm and was holding onto the spindle while using the tool. It takes a few turns before you hear a loud pop.
Click the image to open in full size.

8. Support the spindle. I used twine from IKEA I had laying around. Cable ties work as well. If you don't support it, it will pull on the brake line which you don't want to do.
Click the image to open in full size.

9. Remove the upper shock absorber cap (w/ AVS). 3 bolts.
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10. Remove the clip from the actuator. Carefully twist it counterclockwise 40 degrees and lift.
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11. Support the lower suspension arm with a jack and remove lower shock bolt (black arrow). NOTE: Remove the bolt not the nut because the nut has ridges on the face of it. So loosen the bolt only. I used an old towel or block of wood on top of the jack to protect the finish of the arm.
Click the image to open in full size.

12. Loosen the nut on top of the shock. Don't remove it. It will help when you take off the springs.
Click the image to open in full size.

13. Remove the 3 nuts from the top of the shock.

14. Slowly lower your jack supporting the lower suspension arm and wrestle out the shock. At this point you may want to loosen your twine/cable ties from the spindle so it can drop low enough.

15. At this point I also marked the shock top and bottom orientation with a marker so when I put it back together, everything should line up perfectly.
Click the image to open in full size.

16. Use a spring compressor and remove old spring.
Click the image to open in full size.

17. Per TEIN's instructions, I also cut the bump stop.
Click the image to open in full size.

18. Use spring compressor on new spring and reassemble to shock body. Make sure everything lines up and you have the correct spring orientation. Don't fully tighten the upper shock nut. It will be tightened after the shock is re-installed.
Click the image to open in full size.

19. And then reinstall everything in reverse order. NOTE: Be careful when you reinstall the absorber actuator. It is held on by 2 clips. Make sure the clips clear the mount before you turn it clockwise 40 degrees. I just missed one side and the right clip (red arrow) popped off and ended up somewhere in the engine bay. Luckily after removing some undercarriage panels, I found it and reinstalled.
Click the image to open in full size.

20. Torque everything down to specs. Make sure you don't tighten the side with nut or bolt with the ridges.

Torque specs:
a. Upper shock mount x3 (49 ft.lb)
b. Upper shock nut (20 ft. lb)
c. Actuator cap (14 ft.lb)
d. Ball joint nut (64 ft.lb)
e. Swaybar upper endlink nut (62 ft.lb)
f. Lower shock bolt (133 ft.lb)
g. Skid control sensor wire (10 ft.lb (shock body), 53 in.lb (fender body))
My is250 fsport doesn't have the upper shock absorber cap or sensor. It's a 2015. Do only certain models have that?
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Old 01-30-15, 12:51 AM   #120
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only the 350fsport have the avs module....
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Old 01-30-15, 12:51 AM
 
 
 
 
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