xshurikx

This is just to help people who are changing their rotors and cant get them off.

If PB Blast doesn't work and WD40 is useless and you don't want to hammer away for hours

Go to a hardware store get 2, 2 1/2 in screws that are 8mm or 3/8th inch they fit right into the hole
get 4 lug nuts and 2-4 washers

OK so remove the caliper disconnect the brake line if you plan on bleeding the brake
Remove the brake pads
Remove the caliper brackets

Now if the rotor is not coming off take the screws and insert them into the hole that the bracket is attached to from inside out (same direction as if you were attaching the bracket)
Put on the washer or washers and the 2 lug nuts
Screw one lug nut all the way and leave the other one flush with the bolt end giving you more Surface area

Now as you tighten the bolt with the first lug nut it will push against the rotor pushing it forward off the hub

Make sure to tighten the top and the bottom bolts together so there is more even pressure.

You should hear a loud pop when it finally gives and the rust breaks
If you are hearing small pops then loosen the screws do a quarter turn on the rotor and repeat Doing quarter turns as you hear the small pops. after you have done quarter turns it should just come off, if not then just keep tightening and pushing the rotor with the screws until it does.

NOTE:
Take a look at where to bolt is against the rotor and make sure it is not also on the hub, this is possible as it may be on the seam, if it is then do not use the 2nd lug nut

Also as you push the rotor out the bolt does deform a little, have pliers or a wrench handy the be able to unscrew the lug from the bolt after you took the rotor off

Rinse and repeat on the other side.

Do waste time with hammering away and don't use heat you can damage the hub.

LEXXIUM

iTrader: (1)

There are. 2 threaded holes in the rotors, all you have to do is screw 2 long 10mm bolts into them untill your rotors begin to back up and that all

xshurikx

it is very easy to strip those trust i have done it. also if it is really rusted on those small screws wont do you any good. my buddy bent a 1/4 inch screw doing this because his were really rusted on. and from what i saw they were not 10mm holes on the rotor they looked tiny

LEXXIUM

iTrader: (1)

The other method is to line up a hole with a rubber plug at 6 o'clock and use a screw driver to spin the sprocket that releases the tension off the e brake shoes and then easily pull the rotor once the tention is released ( look inside of the rotor hole with a flash light it will give you a better idea where that little sprocket is) you did remove the caliper and the bracket already?
I hope that one helps

SC3coupe

iTrader: (4)

I was going to do the rear rotors too just one question

I think it is the same as the front job except it has the e-brake, so one more precaution, you got to make sure the brake is released and not grabbing on the drum right?

Otherwise is it any different from the front job? (which was very easy)

bigwhite

The rears have e-brake shoes on the inside of the rotors, as well as the reg. disc pads. Im planning on pulling mine soon cause i have no working e-brake. The fact that there will be a big wear lip on tht drum portion of the rotor will be the prob. Prob. have to get new rotors at 150,000 miles.