BC Racing and TRD don't mix!!!
10-19-13, 08:49 AM
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
BC Racing and TRD don't mix!!!
Purchased a TRD strut bar for my 99 SC300. Now I know about the whole washer issue and what not and decided to go with front spring support to act as the spacers.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...r-fitment.html
Here's the issue now, i don't think it'll thread all the way. I'm on BC Racing coilovers and it seems llike its too short. I tell ya it freaking sucks
Anyone on BC's might wanna stray away from this idea. Imma try again later but i got a feeling i'll have to ship it back
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...r-fitment.html
Here's the issue now, i don't think it'll thread all the way. I'm on BC Racing coilovers and it seems llike its too short. I tell ya it freaking sucks
Anyone on BC's might wanna stray away from this idea. Imma try again later but i got a feeling i'll have to ship it back
10-19-13, 02:56 PM
#3
My Carbing bar didn't fit exactly perfect either, but it was a bit closer than yours I think. I took a rubber mallet to it so it fit all the way down. I'm on Megan's though, not sure if that makes a huge difference.
10-19-13, 10:54 PM
#4
Pole Position
Thread Starter
I have two front spring support plates to act as spacers so the TRD can have clearance. Your studs are probably longer then mine. I noticed on my friends first gen GS that his studs are noticeably longer as well, just for a comparison. He was telling me about some kind of extenders to try and make it work. Also how much space should there be between the engine and the strut bar?
10-20-13, 03:47 AM
#5
I have two front spring support plates to act as spacers so the TRD can have clearance. Your studs are probably longer then mine. I noticed on my friends first gen GS that his studs are noticeably longer as well, just for a comparison. He was telling me about some kind of extenders to try and make it work. Also how much space should there be between the engine and the strut bar?
what brand are you looking to get?
10-20-13, 04:09 AM
#6
unless im missing something, either all you would have to do is enlarge the bolt hole (file, rotary tool, etc,)
or like one guy said, just hit it with something,
or
install the nut, and as it tightens it will be be brace farther down on the shock mount
the last 2 options might damage you threads though.
a file is like $5 or less at home depot.
or like one guy said, just hit it with something,
or
install the nut, and as it tightens it will be be brace farther down on the shock mount
the last 2 options might damage you threads though.
a file is like $5 or less at home depot.
10-20-13, 03:47 PM
#7
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Well when i throw it on one side the other sode doesnt wanna go in. I think maybe thats why i dont have enough thread? Some guys say lift the car on one side ans itll go in just fine. I'd rather not mess with he bar unless i really have to
Trending Topics
10-20-13, 04:27 PM
#8
enlarge all the bolt holes, then. JUST the bolt holes. it will not harm the bar in any way. itll just make it easier for you.
dont lift the car on one side, that would work, but thats not the ideal way to do it. i dont recommend that
here
see the red? is there something physically keeping the shock tower mounting part from being flat/flush on the shock tower? if not, then its not supposed to be like that.
enlarge the bolt holes (yellow)
dont lift the car on one side, that would work, but thats not the ideal way to do it. i dont recommend that
here
see the red? is there something physically keeping the shock tower mounting part from being flat/flush on the shock tower? if not, then its not supposed to be like that.
enlarge the bolt holes (yellow)
10-20-13, 10:13 PM
#9
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Thank you! I'll get to that tomorrow then. Will the hose touching the strut bar do any considerable harm by any chance? I know you guys are probably sick of me asking all these questions lol
10-21-13, 12:26 AM
#11
Pole Position
Thread Starter
It's a rubber hose that sits on the top. If i can get filed down and installed i'll post some pics. If it still doesn't sit right then off to craigslist it goes lol
10-21-13, 01:27 AM
#12
whoah whoah what are you doing?? its pointless to run a strut brace with some spacers or washers.. secondly the trd bar is not meant for NA the intake is too tall.. strut bar is made to sit flat and distribute flex.. r u just putting this on for looks or do you actually want it to do something? enlarging the holes make the strut bar useless peice of metal.. just cause you got it to fit doesnt mean its doing its job... i will gladly take the undamaged trd strut brace off your hands. if you just want it for looks then go ahead and throw it on the car.. getting a strut bar with clearance when it sits flat is the correct way to do it not this jimmy rigging stuff.. smdh
10-21-13, 02:11 AM
#13
.. what are you talking about?
enlarging the hole SLIGHTLY to allow the threads to go through wouldnt hurt anything (thats why some things are manufactured with slotted holes, to make fitment easier, while NOT degrading it in any way) ... the nut applies force (in the form of torque) to the washer, which then applies its force to the brace.
if that bar wasnt made for that application at all, then thats a different story.
but that doesnt mean you cant make it fit and still function as designed.
unless you are just completely misunderstanding what im saying and need to read through this thread again. no one is saying to jerry rig anything. let me state it again, we are talking about slightly enlarging the holes (in the yellow in the drawing) so that the threads will fully clear, allowing it to sit flush, thus getting rid of all of the red in the drawing.
enlarging the hole SLIGHTLY to allow the threads to go through wouldnt hurt anything (thats why some things are manufactured with slotted holes, to make fitment easier, while NOT degrading it in any way) ... the nut applies force (in the form of torque) to the washer, which then applies its force to the brace.
if that bar wasnt made for that application at all, then thats a different story.
but that doesnt mean you cant make it fit and still function as designed.
unless you are just completely misunderstanding what im saying and need to read through this thread again. no one is saying to jerry rig anything. let me state it again, we are talking about slightly enlarging the holes (in the yellow in the drawing) so that the threads will fully clear, allowing it to sit flush, thus getting rid of all of the red in the drawing.
10-21-13, 02:40 PM
#14
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Ok lemme make thia clear.
-its trd supra bar. Now it doesn't clear it but plenty of guys on this forum have bought and installed it kn the SC. Yes it needs spacers washers or spring support. The link in this thread explains that.
-Now it sits flat on side from what i've seen. However the opposite side seems a little short in terms of the studs not going in. Hence why i wantes to elevate one side and install it like that.
-Now the final issue is looking at my studs, they short, period. So the nut won't go all the way. Now one guy mentioned installing longer studs while a friend mentioned getting extensions.
If i can get it on without touching the bar then it'll stay. If not then i'll return it or sell it.
-its trd supra bar. Now it doesn't clear it but plenty of guys on this forum have bought and installed it kn the SC. Yes it needs spacers washers or spring support. The link in this thread explains that.
-Now it sits flat on side from what i've seen. However the opposite side seems a little short in terms of the studs not going in. Hence why i wantes to elevate one side and install it like that.
-Now the final issue is looking at my studs, they short, period. So the nut won't go all the way. Now one guy mentioned installing longer studs while a friend mentioned getting extensions.
If i can get it on without touching the bar then it'll stay. If not then i'll return it or sell it.
