RXGS

iTrader: (2)

So i replaced my lower ball joints today, and i replaced my upper control arm a few months ago. After replacing the ball joint, the noise sort of stopped, but as the day went on the noise has gotten louder. Not on turns at all, but mostly when i accelerate from a stop. For example ill brake, then once i let go of the break i hear a clunk/ click noise. Its not all the time though. I sprayed everything with grease and that didn't help, I then got out of the car and started pulling and pushing (back and forth) the upper control arm where it connects to the vertical arm? the spot right above the top of the tire, and i can hear the clunk noise. I searched, but couldn't really find anything. Could this just be a loose bolt? or am i going to have to replace the upper control arm again? It doesn't make noise while driving unless i hit a big bump in the road, like a big pot hole, and its a clunk/hollow sounding noise. The car only has 80k on it and is a 2002. Any help would be great.

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

Searched somemore, i think it might be the caster arm? bushing...****

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

So i checked the lug nuts, they are tight, checked the sway bar bolts, they are tight. Pads and brakes seem and look to be functioning fine. Are the radius arm and caster arm the same thing? I'm bringing to the lexus dealer on tuesday and want to at least have an idea of what is going on before i go there. Any help id appreciate.

RikTT

iTrader: (2)

Can very well be the caster arm bushing aka lower control arm # 2 or recheck the upper arms. Have a look under & see if you see any fractures/ worn or fatigued caster bushing at least. Did you do an alignment after the front end work ?

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

I went ahead and bought the caster arm for $154 dollars. I did get an alignment after the balljoint and upper control arm. I cant really get underneath the car to fully see the caster arm bushing, but i sprayed it with white grease to see if it helps any (assuming thats actually the noise). Everything else looked fine. I have to be in Cleveland by Friday, assuming it is the caster arm, about how much will the dealer charge me to change it? (rough estimate).

Lexicious

Yes caster arm it essentially holds your suspension from shifting back and forth since lower control arm is 1 bar not an 'A' arm like most

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

How long can i drive with a bad caster arm? The vibration of the wheel at 65 isn't bad at all, i just need to wait till the part comes in.

RikTT

iTrader: (2)

If you're not comfortable in changing the arm by yourself, which is relatively easy, a local mechanic can do it in under .5 hr or 1hr, if that & assuming you got replacement arms for a direct swap. 3 bolts per arm. Dealer would rape. I'd say like $75 local?

You can drive on it but would just do its thing, vibrate.

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

If its less than like 500 ill just go to the dealer, i don't care, i just need it done by Friday. If not can i drive to Cleveland from Buffalo on it , Abour 2.5 hour drive

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

So the dealer looked at it, they said the bushing looked worn, but it seemed ok. Im starting to think it could be the caliper. That wheel always has more brake dust than any of the others and they are all factory pads. It brakes normally, but pulls a little bit to that side. That and the noise isn't constant, when i first start driving in the morning its non existent, but after 4 or 5 times pressing the pedal, theres a clunk. The thing is it clunks also when turning from time to time or hitting a big bump. The dealer said the bushing is "ok" so if its not that, does that leave the caliper, (strut/strut mount) which i doubt because its not constant, and potentially the tie rod? I was thinknig maybe even the motor mounts, but there is zero vibration in the wheel at idle or while driving

Toysled

Check the 2 UCA bolts. I installed Megan adjustable UCAs and somehow one of the two bolts on the passenger side had become loose causing the same clunking noise like something was loose from the front end.

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

Will do thanks. This morning was pretty cold at 40 out and the noise was close to non existent, not sure if the temp is playing a role, but just something I observed.

AKS14

If you are pushing on the wheel and having it clunk near the top its possible the ball joint was not tightened all the way?

FrankT

I haven't seen you mention sway bar end link(s)...

There is a definite load shift in the front when you brake, even if its slight braking and the end links will move. Worn links tend to pop on occasion when they move.

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

No clunks when pushing down, ill check the endlinks again, but they seemed fin.....in other news, have gothen the lead on a 2003 white on saddle sd gs300, so well see if anything comes of that haha. Bought a tl to replace my old Es, didn't like it and returned it so we will see