pulling suspension questions
09-06-13, 10:33 AM
#1
pulling suspension questions
I have already read all the supra/SC info that I have found. Is it for sure that I won't need to touch the upper control arm IF I remove the 2 bolts holding the sway/shock bottom to the lower control arm.. I think I would prefer to do that.
also people said they need a buddy to stand on the rotors, but I'm working alone and I wanted to know if you undo the sway bar endlinks what's really holding up the suspension up that would require someone to stand on the rotors?
final question if given a set of 4 springs is there some way to tell which is the front and which is the rear pair?
Thanks
also people said they need a buddy to stand on the rotors, but I'm working alone and I wanted to know if you undo the sway bar endlinks what's really holding up the suspension up that would require someone to stand on the rotors?
final question if given a set of 4 springs is there some way to tell which is the front and which is the rear pair?
Thanks
09-06-13, 11:15 AM
#2
Unbolt the sway bar endlinks.
Also unbolt the crown nut for the tie rods, that should allow the control arms to dip further.
Also, you can tell which springs are front/rear by looking at the spring seats/perches on the shocks, and matching them.
If the springs you are installing are springs for an SC,the front spring bottoms and spring seats should be smaller in diameter than the rears.
If the springs are for a Supra, although the rear spring bottoms and spring perches are smaller diameter, it is more obvious to identify because the rear springs are a lot shorter in height than the front springs.
Also unbolt the crown nut for the tie rods, that should allow the control arms to dip further.
Also, you can tell which springs are front/rear by looking at the spring seats/perches on the shocks, and matching them.
If the springs you are installing are springs for an SC,the front spring bottoms and spring seats should be smaller in diameter than the rears.
If the springs are for a Supra, although the rear spring bottoms and spring perches are smaller diameter, it is more obvious to identify because the rear springs are a lot shorter in height than the front springs.
09-06-13, 02:46 PM
#3
You can't always attack the problem sensibly. you can try the endlinks, but for most SC's that see regular use by now they are locked up, and will likely strip out by the time you get them off (if you can without cutting them). you have to grab the outside and use a allen head thing, its about the most genius method ever to make it very difficult to remove, add a little rust and its grinder time.
In short... I pull the bolt for the upper control arm. on the drivers side you have to unbolt the washer fluid bottle to slide the bolt out. Its not as bad as one would think just remember how you pull off the bolt and washers and put it back in the same way. you will need a large breaker bar, maybe 2 breaker bars if you don't have another wrench to put on the other side and rest on something hard that will hold while you breaker on the other side.
When tightening you want to use a torque wrench and hit the right torque too hard your suspension will go through your bushings, too soft and well, its your suspension you don't want it too loose.
It is like 112 ft/lbs or something like that it has been a while since I have done it though so double check thats just off the top of my head which has been wrong once or twice =)
give the endlinks a try, but you have been warned!!!
springs you should be albe to find some pics online of SC springs not the exact same as supra springs watch out.
In short... I pull the bolt for the upper control arm. on the drivers side you have to unbolt the washer fluid bottle to slide the bolt out. Its not as bad as one would think just remember how you pull off the bolt and washers and put it back in the same way. you will need a large breaker bar, maybe 2 breaker bars if you don't have another wrench to put on the other side and rest on something hard that will hold while you breaker on the other side.
When tightening you want to use a torque wrench and hit the right torque too hard your suspension will go through your bushings, too soft and well, its your suspension you don't want it too loose.
It is like 112 ft/lbs or something like that it has been a while since I have done it though so double check thats just off the top of my head which has been wrong once or twice =)
give the endlinks a try, but you have been warned!!!
springs you should be albe to find some pics online of SC springs not the exact same as supra springs watch out.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 09-06-13 at 02:51 PM.
09-06-13, 02:58 PM
#6
I know about the endlinks.. I am going to give it a shot (or 2) with the impact wrench, I think that's supposed to come off that way. For a CA car I hope it's not as big of a deal.
There is also this other thing that is supposed to be a routine maint. called "torque the subframe bolts" which bolts are they exactly?
because I'm having a bit of noises over bumps too. Sounded as if it was a something loose in the trunk
There is also this other thing that is supposed to be a routine maint. called "torque the subframe bolts" which bolts are they exactly?
because I'm having a bit of noises over bumps too. Sounded as if it was a something loose in the trunk
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09-07-13, 04:27 PM
#8
What kind of noise are you hearing? are you still on stock suspension? i had tapping noises coming from my rear due to blown shocks, i thought it was actually my rear subframe bushings just being shot but it was the rear shocks. Although i still do need to replace those bushings as well. noise went away after i put on my coils.
09-08-13, 01:00 AM
#9
Hey I just did the fronts today it was not bad, no need to remove the upper control but definitely get 2 people to press on the front hub
Is the rear any easier? Do I need to touch the upper arms there..
The stock strut one of them is blown for sure , with oil leak and easy to push in
but they both extend super slow is that blown as well
Is the rear any easier? Do I need to touch the upper arms there..
The stock strut one of them is blown for sure , with oil leak and easy to push in
but they both extend super slow is that blown as well
09-08-13, 09:59 AM
#12
Incase anyone is reading this, I used this type of offset wrench to remove one of the inside bolts on the lca bracket
Worked well
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_17649.jpg
Then scoot the shock towards and away to remove the bolts, I jabbed a screw driver into the lca bracket bolt hole for the shock the hold off the scooted shock, hope that made sense, while I install/remove the bolt closet to the hub. Swivel socket was used to do that one.
2nd person assist in retreiving the shock and also get the bracket bolts started while I pushed the hub down
One might be able to put a pry bar to pry down the lca I think but I didn't need to
Worked well
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_17649.jpg
Then scoot the shock towards and away to remove the bolts, I jabbed a screw driver into the lca bracket bolt hole for the shock the hold off the scooted shock, hope that made sense, while I install/remove the bolt closet to the hub. Swivel socket was used to do that one.
2nd person assist in retreiving the shock and also get the bracket bolts started while I pushed the hub down
One might be able to put a pry bar to pry down the lca I think but I didn't need to
09-09-13, 04:18 PM
#15
I used a 14mm impact swivel socket (it's not quite the same as u joint + socket)
and impact shot it off.. but I imagine it is tough for that outside one without impact.
shops use them all day long because they get into otherwise difficult places.. recommend deep and regular 2 sets.
The rear I got done as well, but you need a friend, and a heavy one. I am about 160 but have to constantly bounce down on the rear rotor for my helper to R&R the shock. Sway endlinks disconnected!!
for those reading try not to tear the lower ball joint boot on the back like we accidently did when I got off the rotor the shock got sent right at the ball joint. My thought is have the helper also put in the bolt before you let go or put a small visegrip in front of the ball joint as a stop
and impact shot it off.. but I imagine it is tough for that outside one without impact.
shops use them all day long because they get into otherwise difficult places.. recommend deep and regular 2 sets.
The rear I got done as well, but you need a friend, and a heavy one. I am about 160 but have to constantly bounce down on the rear rotor for my helper to R&R the shock. Sway endlinks disconnected!!
for those reading try not to tear the lower ball joint boot on the back like we accidently did when I got off the rotor the shock got sent right at the ball joint. My thought is have the helper also put in the bolt before you let go or put a small visegrip in front of the ball joint as a stop