Brakes 101 - Class is in session!
10-01-13, 07:54 AM
#16
thanks for the info my left front is also sticking on my 93 300, a slight pull to the right under heavy braking. i had the mechanic bleed the brakes and all 3 had fluid come out right away but that front left didnt. had to pump brake to get it going, it went but still pulls right. he even said the fluid is dark. can i just open up the lines and let all the fluid run out and just put new fluid in, any recomendation of something i can do to get all the old fluid out. i know i need new pads in about 3k miles. just trying to do regular maintenance that wont break the bank so i can get good pads later.
10-01-13, 08:00 AM
#17
Thanks for all the info. My brakes have to much play in the pedal and are kind of weak. So far I have just flushed the fluid started with the wheel farthest from the master cyclinder to the closest. The car has 115k and the fluid was pretty dark like coffee : sad: I'm hoping the cylinder isn't toast.
The LS400 caliper swap is a great upgrade, providing you have enough wheel clearance for them, and the master cylinder has enough volume in it to feed the calipers without issue.
10-01-13, 08:10 AM
#18
My method is packing the cleaned bracket holes with a lot of lube then taking one of the pins (unattached to the caliper) and pushing it all the way in. Wipe away the excess that will come out and you have maximum lubrication. Take a little lube on your finger tip and wipe a very light coat inside the boots. On the pins that have the bushings reapply a little grease to the area between the shank and the bushing before final installation. When it's finally assembled you should have no grease outside of the boots.
On the hardware where the pad slides you want a small amount of lubricant on the surfaces where the pad ears go in. Be light, but coat them thoroughly and put a little on the pad ears too.
And, of course... Keep the lube off the pad and rotor!
On the hardware where the pad slides you want a small amount of lubricant on the surfaces where the pad ears go in. Be light, but coat them thoroughly and put a little on the pad ears too.
And, of course... Keep the lube off the pad and rotor!
10-01-13, 08:12 AM
#19
The components to rebuild our calipers can be found at RockAuto.com, my go-to place for parts.
Last edited by Murco; 10-02-13 at 07:18 AM.
10-06-13, 11:22 AM
#21
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I also ordered a caliper to be ready just in case. I am hoping maybe the caliper is dirty and after cleaning it we can get it working but hoses are something i will need to do anyway after i bleed the entire system. maybe that is also causing the abs and trac not to work? hmm
10-07-13, 09:06 AM
#22
I'm not familiar with the R1 posi-quiet pads but I believe Wagner has pads with that same name. Anything "extended wear" when it comes to pads or tires means harder compounds. In brakes that may mean minimal initial bite and longer stopping distances. Just like tires that are harder compound that give up a lot of traction for the extended life....
10-07-13, 11:34 AM
#23
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I'm not familiar with the R1 posi-quiet pads but I believe Wagner has pads with that same name. Anything "extended wear" when it comes to pads or tires means harder compounds. In brakes that may mean minimal initial bite and longer stopping distances. Just like tires that are harder compound that give up a lot of traction for the extended life....
10-07-13, 11:40 AM
#24
Hi OP, how do you tell if the rear rotors are out of true / warped?
I had this rumbling feel at above 60 mph when I tapped the brakes.
After replacing the front rotors it was a bit better, but not completely gone.
The steering wheel does not feel any of it so I am thinking maybe the rears need to be replaced as well?
I had this rumbling feel at above 60 mph when I tapped the brakes.
After replacing the front rotors it was a bit better, but not completely gone.
The steering wheel does not feel any of it so I am thinking maybe the rears need to be replaced as well?
10-14-13, 10:59 AM
#25
"Rumbling" may be caused by hardware that no longer cushions the pads on the bracket, transmitting some low frequency vibrations. I'd also look at the caliper hardware, that will cause such a noise as well. As for your rear rotors, I doubt they are warped as they are pretty hardy pieces.
10-14-13, 09:15 PM
#30