bump steer after steering rack bushing install
08-06-13, 11:26 PM
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bump steer after steering rack bushing install
Background:
Stock bushings were a bit worn out and at 96K on the clock I changed them out with poly ones from Whiteline. Car drove fine otherwise and had no steering suspension or alignment issues from what I could tell.
After changing them out I had an alignment done at a local chain, they said only minor adjustments needed done and they straightened out my steering wheel.
Car rides great with the new bushings, steering is amazing until I hit a bump. I have crazy bump steer and tram lining since the install of these bushings. I then had the car aligned again at a Lexus dealer and they made some more adjustments and said my job on the bushings was ok.
Question:
Any ideas on why I still have bump steer and tram lining issues after changing these out?
Stock bushings were a bit worn out and at 96K on the clock I changed them out with poly ones from Whiteline. Car drove fine otherwise and had no steering suspension or alignment issues from what I could tell.
After changing them out I had an alignment done at a local chain, they said only minor adjustments needed done and they straightened out my steering wheel.
Car rides great with the new bushings, steering is amazing until I hit a bump. I have crazy bump steer and tram lining since the install of these bushings. I then had the car aligned again at a Lexus dealer and they made some more adjustments and said my job on the bushings was ok.
Question:
Any ideas on why I still have bump steer and tram lining issues after changing these out?
08-07-13, 05:19 AM
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The high pressure hose connection coming from the PS pump (hose fitting that comes directly down from the pump then takes a turn for the driver side of the car) does seep fluid, PS fluid level isn't low though.
After a long drive it is enough to leave a few drops on the ground after parking but usually it doesn't leak on the ground. I had the PS flushed when I bought the car about 2 years ago and now I remember them mentioning this leak.
08-07-13, 06:51 AM
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I know these reasons are always the go to answer for this type of issue but mine was fine before I put in the rack bushings and according to the shop i went to, I did them correctly.
Did you get your bushings from whiteline too?
***Also wanted to add that I run 18x8 ISx50 wheels and replaced outer tie rods about 6 months ago, also installed correctly and aligned afterward.***
08-07-13, 07:38 AM
#6
Lexus dealers don't really know what they're talking about half the time, and it seems they don't even want to mess with their older model cars sometimes. I'm not sure how they checked the bushings without removing them. I've done bushings to SC's 3 or more times, and you won't really know how busted they are until you've removed the lower control arms. Also, if the power steering is leaking fluid, and enough fluid is coming out, the system might be loosing pressure as well, and can cause tramlining. I would suggest to double check the steering rack bushings and the bolts that hold the steering rack to be up to torque spec. We're all just guessing at this point, because usually tramlining is a sign for worn steering rack bushings, which you have just replaced. And you did say you just got a proper alignment right? Just make sure it's through a reputable shop that deals with aftermarket wheels and/or lowered cars if applicable.
PS My SC tramline so bad as well, but I have 9.5" wheels upfront and 225/35/19 tires are a bit wide and a little worn, and top it off with a -2.5 camber. It would usually follow the concrete slab lines in the freeway and pretty hard to control at times if you don't have both hands on the steering wheel.
PS My SC tramline so bad as well, but I have 9.5" wheels upfront and 225/35/19 tires are a bit wide and a little worn, and top it off with a -2.5 camber. It would usually follow the concrete slab lines in the freeway and pretty hard to control at times if you don't have both hands on the steering wheel.
08-07-13, 07:51 AM
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Lexus dealers don't really know what they're talking about half the time, and it seems they don't even want to mess with their older model cars sometimes. I'm not sure how they checked the bushings without removing them. I've done bushings to SC's 3 or more times, and you won't really know how busted they are until you've removed the lower control arms. Also, if the power steering is leaking fluid, and enough fluid is coming out, the system might be loosing pressure as well, and can cause tramlining. I would suggest to double check the steering rack bushings and the bolts that hold the steering rack to be up to torque spec. We're all just guessing at this point, because usually tramlining is a sign for worn steering rack bushings, which you have just replaced. And you did say you just got a proper alignment right? Just make sure it's through a reputable shop that deals with aftermarket wheels and/or lowered cars if applicable.
PS My SC tramline so bad as well, but I have 9.5" wheels upfront and 225/35/19 tires are a bit wide and a little worn, and top it off with a -2.5 camber. It would usually follow the concrete slab lines in the freeway and pretty hard to control at times if you don't have both hands on the steering wheel.
PS My SC tramline so bad as well, but I have 9.5" wheels upfront and 225/35/19 tires are a bit wide and a little worn, and top it off with a -2.5 camber. It would usually follow the concrete slab lines in the freeway and pretty hard to control at times if you don't have both hands on the steering wheel.
I'll start with a re-torque on all the bolts, do you have the spec numbers off hand?
Yes I had an alignment done (twice, once at a midas and again at the dealer) and this was right after I replaced them.
Ill look into the leak as well. I'm sure there is a DIY for the PS lines on here right? Or is that a job that is worth having someone else do?
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08-07-13, 08:42 AM
#9
I am also concerned of the alignment. In my experience, shops that only do OEM specs have a hard time aligning our SC's for whatever reason I don't know. If you're lowered or have aftermarket wheels I'd bring your SC to an alignment shop that really deals with custom stuff. Can you take a pic of the latest alignment you have done so we can take a look at the specs?
As for the high pressure hose, there's quite a handful of choices you can go with. OEM is $477.95 from Sewell Lexus with our CL membership discount.
Autozone have it for $147.99.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par.../N-jabohZ8oz1z
Or the route I went with, drift motion, if you don't mind plugging the vacuum lines, for $70.
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-sc400psline.php
My DIY on this.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/7224352-post80.html
08-07-13, 09:45 AM
#10
Don't forget another cause of tramlining, the tires. With a proper alignment and the new bushings, it will be riding on a different part of the tire and that itself could cause more tramlining as well as bumpsteer. I'd rotate the tires first and see if that alleviates any of the new symptoms because you go throwing money at expensive suspension components.
08-07-13, 12:57 PM
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Thanks for all the great info KingPhilip!
I'll re-torque them either tonight or tomorrow and post back results along with latest alignment numbers. They gave me one of those print outs with the picture of the car.
I like to keep the car as stock as possible so I'd rather not plug the vacuum lines...plus mine is a 98 with the VVT-i engine and there may be a difference there.
I would like to go OEM and that would include all the lines right? the whole assembly. But if the autozone part is a bolt on I may do that instead.
The car isn't lowered but it does have "aftermarket" wheels from an IS350.
Tires were rotated front to back and balanced at the Lexus dealer when they did the alignment.
I'll re-torque them either tonight or tomorrow and post back results along with latest alignment numbers. They gave me one of those print outs with the picture of the car.
I like to keep the car as stock as possible so I'd rather not plug the vacuum lines...plus mine is a 98 with the VVT-i engine and there may be a difference there.
I would like to go OEM and that would include all the lines right? the whole assembly. But if the autozone part is a bolt on I may do that instead.
The car isn't lowered but it does have "aftermarket" wheels from an IS350.
Tires were rotated front to back and balanced at the Lexus dealer when they did the alignment.
08-09-13, 07:19 AM
#12
hopefully you have the IS wheeels that are the same size all around, many of them are staggered and cannot be rotated front to back. I think the is250 awd is the one that is not staggered but maybe some is350 arent as well. worth a double check dont want wider wheels in the front.
08-09-13, 08:15 AM
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hopefully you have the IS wheeels that are the same size all around, many of them are staggered and cannot be rotated front to back. I think the is250 awd is the one that is not staggered but maybe some is350 arent as well. worth a double check dont want wider wheels in the front.
I haven't had time to get under the car yet or find my alignment results, this weekend for sure ill let you all know. Thanks for all the help with this.
08-17-13, 08:47 AM
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Ok the results:
I re-torqued the bolts, the lower bolt on the passenger side was a lot looser than the others, all of them are now torqued to around 60 ft-lbs. The car feels a tad more solid but the same symptoms exist.
Latest alignment from Midas (Lexus didn't give me a print out for theirs)
Driver Front is at 0.10* Toe, 2.5* Caster, -0.5* Camber
Passenger Front is at 0.05* Toe, 2.9* Caster, -0.3 Camber
Driver Rear is at 0.15* Toe, -0.9* Camber
Passenger Rear is at 0.15* Toe and -1.3* Camber
Total Toe: 0.15*
I re-torqued the bolts, the lower bolt on the passenger side was a lot looser than the others, all of them are now torqued to around 60 ft-lbs. The car feels a tad more solid but the same symptoms exist.
Latest alignment from Midas (Lexus didn't give me a print out for theirs)
Driver Front is at 0.10* Toe, 2.5* Caster, -0.5* Camber
Passenger Front is at 0.05* Toe, 2.9* Caster, -0.3 Camber
Driver Rear is at 0.15* Toe, -0.9* Camber
Passenger Rear is at 0.15* Toe and -1.3* Camber
Total Toe: 0.15*
08-18-13, 08:52 AM
#15
Are your lower control arms OK and you don't have any leaks?
I know these reasons are always the go to answer for this type of issue but mine was fine before I put in the rack bushings and according to the shop i went to, I did them correctly.
Did you get your bushings from whiteline too?
***Also wanted to add that I run 18x8 ISx50 wheels and replaced outer tie rods about 6 months ago, also installed correctly and aligned afterward.***