Best Gixxer Drew Spring Rates For Low AND Comfort?
06-01-13, 02:46 PM
#1
Best Gixxer Drew Spring Rates For Low AND Comfort?
Greetings,
I just ordered Gixxer Drew parts. I live in NYC so I chose the softest spring rates (500/250) because of the horrible roads I drive on.
I know the Gixxer Drew suspension is NOT for slamming a car and I do not intend to slam it however I do intend to explore the limits of the "Low" the system allows (if even for a few days). I read something about the softer spring rates not working well if you go low. Is this the case?
How much comfort will I sacrifice on bad roads if I upgrade to the 600/325 springs?
Is there a special way to install the sleeve to have maximum (logical) low ability?
I will settle on something in the middle height wise but would love to be reasonably "slammish" for a week or two occasionally. I'd like to make sure I install them in a way that gives me the most flexibility.
Is 500/250 a mistake? Should I call and change it?
(i never track, just drive like a skilled maniac on sometimes bad roads)
I just ordered Gixxer Drew parts. I live in NYC so I chose the softest spring rates (500/250) because of the horrible roads I drive on.
I know the Gixxer Drew suspension is NOT for slamming a car and I do not intend to slam it however I do intend to explore the limits of the "Low" the system allows (if even for a few days). I read something about the softer spring rates not working well if you go low. Is this the case?
How much comfort will I sacrifice on bad roads if I upgrade to the 600/325 springs?
Is there a special way to install the sleeve to have maximum (logical) low ability?
I will settle on something in the middle height wise but would love to be reasonably "slammish" for a week or two occasionally. I'd like to make sure I install them in a way that gives me the most flexibility.
Is 500/250 a mistake? Should I call and change it?
(i never track, just drive like a skilled maniac on sometimes bad roads)
06-01-13, 03:46 PM
#2
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You are advised not to go too low with lower spring rates because you are more likely to bottom out either your shock body (depending on its length) or parts of your car such as the front tires or rear axels on your frame. The lower you are, the less suspension travel there is, and therefore a higher spring rate is needed to compensate. You can only go so low without sacrificing comfort.
Unless your on air
Unless your on air
Last edited by ST8SIX; 06-01-13 at 03:51 PM.
06-01-13, 11:27 PM
#3
StudioGeek, you picked the right rate combination for NYC roads. I've ridden in other people's cars there and Crown Vic taxis to know what they feel like. Similarly, I opted for the 600/325 combination when I was in L.A. and the roads there range from good to horrible.
I'm still running the 600/325 setup in FL where we have flat and often better roads but there are plenty of bad sections.
Overall, given that most of my driving is on the street, I'd have chosen the 500/250 and I might switch to that later. I do feel, however, that the 600/325 setup was a great if rough drive on some of my favorite mountain roads: Mulholland Drive, Latigo Canyon Road and the PCH in Northern Cali.
But for street driving it's 90% livable. Once you hit bad sections of road it can be a smidgen harsh. 600/325 was described as a street/track suspension setting, so take that as you will. At the time, and given those mountain roads, I was willing to get that.
Edit/Addition: The Gixxer_Drew is indeed not a suspension designed for much lowering. First, be sure to use the optional helper springs whether you have the 500/250 or the 600/325. Even above stock ride height I had trouble with preload when installing or when the car is raised on a lift. At the time I ordered mine it wasn't recommended unless you went with higher rates than the first two but sometime in 2009-2010 the AK shocks had a slight change which necessitates the use of the helper springs. Adding those will be an upgrade soon. Second, I'm perhaps 1" lower than "stock" or just at SC stock ride height. Going much lower messes with the stock geometry too much to get the best results from this suspension and makes it far easier to hit your bump stops on those ill-maintained roads.
I'm still running the 600/325 setup in FL where we have flat and often better roads but there are plenty of bad sections.
Overall, given that most of my driving is on the street, I'd have chosen the 500/250 and I might switch to that later. I do feel, however, that the 600/325 setup was a great if rough drive on some of my favorite mountain roads: Mulholland Drive, Latigo Canyon Road and the PCH in Northern Cali.
But for street driving it's 90% livable. Once you hit bad sections of road it can be a smidgen harsh. 600/325 was described as a street/track suspension setting, so take that as you will. At the time, and given those mountain roads, I was willing to get that.
Edit/Addition: The Gixxer_Drew is indeed not a suspension designed for much lowering. First, be sure to use the optional helper springs whether you have the 500/250 or the 600/325. Even above stock ride height I had trouble with preload when installing or when the car is raised on a lift. At the time I ordered mine it wasn't recommended unless you went with higher rates than the first two but sometime in 2009-2010 the AK shocks had a slight change which necessitates the use of the helper springs. Adding those will be an upgrade soon. Second, I'm perhaps 1" lower than "stock" or just at SC stock ride height. Going much lower messes with the stock geometry too much to get the best results from this suspension and makes it far easier to hit your bump stops on those ill-maintained roads.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 06-01-13 at 11:58 PM. Reason: lowering information
06-02-13, 11:21 AM
#4
The main issue with why these can't be slammed is the shock length. These shocks are normal full length shocks for an OEM suspension Supra. By default, this 'coilover' system is just a glorified OEM suspension with lowering springs. True coilover setups have shorter shocks to allow lowering without running out of shock stroke.
Why is this kit so highly praised? In order to get a shock and linear spring of this caliber you really would need to spend at least $1500. The ability to customize this coilover setup is another priceless option. Sub $1500 your options are mostly from China and Taiwan. A Taiwan coilover kit should not be compared in the same sentence as a Bilstein. They use dampers and valving that would not even be comparable or on par with OEM, much less a forever revalvable Bilstein.
Why is this kit so highly praised? In order to get a shock and linear spring of this caliber you really would need to spend at least $1500. The ability to customize this coilover setup is another priceless option. Sub $1500 your options are mostly from China and Taiwan. A Taiwan coilover kit should not be compared in the same sentence as a Bilstein. They use dampers and valving that would not even be comparable or on par with OEM, much less a forever revalvable Bilstein.
06-02-13, 01:26 PM
#5
The main issue with why these can't be slammed is the shock length. These shocks are normal full length shocks for an OEM suspension Supra. By default, this 'coilover' system is just a glorified OEM suspension with lowering springs. True coilover setups have shorter shocks to allow lowering without running out of shock stroke.
Why is this kit so highly praised? In order to get a shock and linear spring of this caliber you really would need to spend at least $1500. The ability to customize this coilover setup is another priceless option. Sub $1500 your options are mostly from China and Taiwan. A Taiwan coilover kit should not be compared in the same sentence as a Bilstein. They use dampers and valving that would not even be comparable or on par with OEM, much less a forever revalvable Bilstein.
Why is this kit so highly praised? In order to get a shock and linear spring of this caliber you really would need to spend at least $1500. The ability to customize this coilover setup is another priceless option. Sub $1500 your options are mostly from China and Taiwan. A Taiwan coilover kit should not be compared in the same sentence as a Bilstein. They use dampers and valving that would not even be comparable or on par with OEM, much less a forever revalvable Bilstein.
I chose this system for that reason and I am happy with my choice (conceptually). Quality parts, great handling, good ride all are most important for me, the look is last on the priority list but it is still important. I may lower it for a month when i'm just puttering around town in deep city traffic and "Hard Parking" here and there. When I actually go for a real highway run out of town, I can raise it into the "sweet spot". There is a GREAT alignment place in Queens, open 24/7 and only 45$ to complete the metamorphosis.
For the most part it will be in the lower part of the suspension "sweet spot" but I want to make sure I install everything in a way that gives me the most flexibility and best results.
Thanks for your help. Your comments helped me make up my mind to do it.
Are you in NYC by any chance?
06-02-13, 01:34 PM
#6
You are advised not to go too low with lower spring rates because you are more likely to bottom out either your shock body (depending on its length) or parts of your car such as the front tires or rear axels on your frame. The lower you are, the less suspension travel there is, and therefore a higher spring rate is needed to compensate. You can only go so low without sacrificing comfort.
Unless your on air
Unless your on air
StudioGeek, you picked the right rate combination for NYC roads. I've ridden in other people's cars there and Crown Vic taxis to know what they feel like. Similarly, I opted for the 600/325 combination when I was in L.A. and the roads there range from good to horrible.
I'm still running the 600/325 setup in FL where we have flat and often better roads but there are plenty of bad sections.
Overall, given that most of my driving is on the street, I'd have chosen the 500/250 and I might switch to that later. I do feel, however, that the 600/325 setup was a great if rough drive on some of my favorite mountain roads: Mulholland Drive, Latigo Canyon Road and the PCH in Northern Cali.
But for street driving it's 90% livable. Once you hit bad sections of road it can be a smidgen harsh. 600/325 was described as a street/track suspension setting, so take that as you will. At the time, and given those mountain roads, I was willing to get that.
Edit/Addition: The Gixxer_Drew is indeed not a suspension designed for much lowering. First, be sure to use the optional helper springs whether you have the 500/250 or the 600/325. Even above stock ride height I had trouble with preload when installing or when the car is raised on a lift. At the time I ordered mine it wasn't recommended unless you went with higher rates than the first two but sometime in 2009-2010 the AK shocks had a slight change which necessitates the use of the helper springs. Adding those will be an upgrade soon. Second, I'm perhaps 1" lower than "stock" or just at SC stock ride height. Going much lower messes with the stock geometry too much to get the best results from this suspension and makes it far easier to hit your bump stops on those ill-maintained roads.
I'm still running the 600/325 setup in FL where we have flat and often better roads but there are plenty of bad sections.
Overall, given that most of my driving is on the street, I'd have chosen the 500/250 and I might switch to that later. I do feel, however, that the 600/325 setup was a great if rough drive on some of my favorite mountain roads: Mulholland Drive, Latigo Canyon Road and the PCH in Northern Cali.
But for street driving it's 90% livable. Once you hit bad sections of road it can be a smidgen harsh. 600/325 was described as a street/track suspension setting, so take that as you will. At the time, and given those mountain roads, I was willing to get that.
Edit/Addition: The Gixxer_Drew is indeed not a suspension designed for much lowering. First, be sure to use the optional helper springs whether you have the 500/250 or the 600/325. Even above stock ride height I had trouble with preload when installing or when the car is raised on a lift. At the time I ordered mine it wasn't recommended unless you went with higher rates than the first two but sometime in 2009-2010 the AK shocks had a slight change which necessitates the use of the helper springs. Adding those will be an upgrade soon. Second, I'm perhaps 1" lower than "stock" or just at SC stock ride height. Going much lower messes with the stock geometry too much to get the best results from this suspension and makes it far easier to hit your bump stops on those ill-maintained roads.
06-02-13, 08:50 PM
#7
Yea I'm an NYC guy. I live on Staten Island but work in Queens. The car is currently not running after a rear brake hardline rusted up and exploded during a panic stop. I'm on the same exact springrate you went for. Would let ya take a ride in mine if the subframe wasn't in pieces. The hardline burst up high so the whole pumpkin and suspension had to come down. Took the opportunity to crack open the pumpkin, throw in 3.3 gears instead of the 4.08s, drop in a Kaaz LSD, upgrade all bushings to urethane, run all new copper brake hardlines so they never rust, and finish it off with Supra TT brakes.
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06-04-13, 05:27 AM
#8
Yea I'm an NYC guy. I live on Staten Island but work in Queens. The car is currently not running after a rear brake hardline rusted up and exploded during a panic stop. I'm on the same exact springrate you went for. Would let ya take a ride in mine if the subframe wasn't in pieces. The hardline burst up high so the whole pumpkin and suspension had to come down. Took the opportunity to crack open the pumpkin, throw in 3.3 gears instead of the 4.08s, drop in a Kaaz LSD, upgrade all bushings to urethane, run all new copper brake hardlines so they never rust, and finish it off with Supra TT brakes.
06-04-13, 07:35 PM
#12
Here is the page you should start reading on where the issue of no preload comes up. The subsequent pages go into it more I think. Drew talks about it at the top of the thread but scroll down and read a post by "Thumps" on that page to see what he dealt with. He has the same 600/325 setup I have.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...hread../page41
So far I haven't added helpers to mine but I am going to do this soon.
Also, it's not uncommon for these AK Bilsteins to be in short supply as they are a very low production shock.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 06-04-13 at 07:39 PM.
06-04-13, 07:53 PM
#13
Just passed 240,000 miles on the chassis. It was a 1 owner northeast car with clean carfax but evidence of rear bumper repainting. Rust is its biggest downfall and the brake lines looked like junk. As of today, the Supra TT calipers are on and the copper lines are all hooked up. Gotta finish off the pumpkin and see how the single turbo likes a steep gear.
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