Hi, I bought a 1998 GS400 with a 160,000 miles on it in December. I've let it sit due to multiple maintenance issues including brakes and suspension. I've read many sticky's and threads and my head is spinning on what to buy.I looked over the front suspension on a hoist with a mechanic friend of mine and there isn't that much play in the suspension but I get the vibrating shaky steering wheel and weird noises mentioned in some threads even though my tires are balanced.
With out really knowing if the lower ball joints have been changed, can someone give a parts list with the model #'s on what I should change on the front end & rear suspension, ball joints, tie rods,bushings etc. because I need to get this car back on the road ASAP after selling my winter car and I would like to have the piece of mind that my suspension won't fall apart on me.
I'm also looking for some nice front and rear shocks that are not that stiff and give the car a nice ride, any suggestions would be great. We have bad roads and a lot of pot holes and I'm going to throw on 19" G37 wheels or 19"-20" BMW wheels with low pro's and I would like to fill up my wheel wells (nothing crazy, even tough I love the tucked look), but the body doesn't need to go that low because of the bad roads.
For the front brakes I'm doing the Supra TT conversion.
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LuxuryGS3 listed it out pretty well back in the day
Originally Posted by LuxuryGS3
Here's all that I SUGGEST when running slammed for a full suspension overhaul. Do all of this and you will not be dissatisfied with your choice to drop so much money on your suspension.
-: Moog LBJ's
-: Moog Outer Tie Rods
-: New Steering Rack Bushings
-: TRD Sway Bars
-: FIGS Front Sway Bar Endlinks
-: FIGS Rear Sway Bar Endlinks
-: FIGS Front RCA's
-: Battle Version/FIGS Rear Toe Links
-: Battle Version/FIGS Rear Traction Links
-: Battle Version/FIGS Rear Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arm
Thanks for the list. I'm assuming I would need to do the the Moog products and the bushings first.I'm kinda on a budget seeing I need to do other things, what else do you suggest doing on that list now? Also the last link doesn't work and was there a coil over, shock suggestion you recommend for what kinda of setup I'm looking for?
If your on a budget then i would try and do Balljoints, steering rack bushings, and sway bar bushings.. U can get the bushings from Sewell. With that many miles i'm sure the rubber is worn out on everything so instead of FIGS atm Moog and Sewell would be good.
Tanabe DF springs gives the GS a nice drop with out sacrificing ride quality... KYB or Bilstein shocks and struts would be a good combo.
So would I go with KYB GR-2 / Excel-G & which Bilstein set?
Would it be better to go with a coil over so that I could adjust them if I needed to, and wouldn’t it cost just as much as a spring and shock setup or would I loose the smooth ride with coil overs? Which coil over set would you suggest?
I have recently done most of what you're looking for
I did my front suspension about 3yrs ago......
I am also looking for max bang-for-my-bucks.....and here's what I went with :
1) Eibach ProKit Springs
2) KYB All the way around
3) Daizen Front Control Arm upper n lower / #2 Caster Arm Bushes from TM
4) Daizen Steering Bushes from TM
5) Daizen Sway Bushes from TM
6) Moog Ball Joints / Tie Rod Ends (rock auto)
7) Moog Front Links (rock auto)
And I was very happy with the results for a long time - took 80% of the vibes from the front end.
The Steering pretensioner got another approx 15% - it's ALMOST gone!
However - after nearly 45,000mi on this - I am less than satisfied with the Daizen bushes.
The #2 control arm / caster bush is beginning to fail - it is cracked and will not last much longer.
If - IF - I had it to do over again - I would buy all the front bushes from Mike at FIGS.
He has a solid bushing for the front lower #2 Caster Arm - that CANNOT fail, and if you want poly - he has a 3-piece coming out very soon that will properly flex and not fail n crack like my Daizen.
Mike offers excellent communication - and you will not have issues working with him as opposed to TM.
ALSO - Keep an eye on Rock Auto - they shipped me mismatched tie rod ends. One True Moog, and one that was a moog box with the "555" brand inside. They claim they're fine to use this way, even though an idiot can see the difference in quality when side-by-side - and would not return them unelss I paid for shipping! Not Cool, and something to be aware of.
From reading many threads the Caster #2 Bushings from Daizen were not good, but how about the steering rack & sway bar bushings? Does anyone know of a better place to buy Daizen products other than TM Engineering? Also how our Energy Suspensions steering rack & sway bar bushings? If neither are good where do I buy other quality Steering Rack & Sway Bar Bushings other than Figs because Iím pressed on time so I canít wait on new product development?
I also found Moog Front & Rear Stabilizer Bar Links and Front Coupling Rods, are those needed or are they only bought when damaged?
Iím debating between Megan EZ or LP, would you know if one is more of a comfortable ride over the other? I donít plan on racing the car anytime soon and I know the LP has more adjustment, which one would you suggest? I might go with Style 95 BMW wheels or M6 wheels 245-35-19 front 255-35-19 rear if that makes a difference.
Ok besides pulling the trigger on the Megan EZ coilovers and Roca Bushing set, I bought everything on the front end suspension list except for the Coupling Rods because they were expensive and not stocked in the US so the shipping was just as much as the product. I also bought the Rear Sway Bar Bushings & Rear Stabilizer Bar Link.
Can anyone chime in on my quoted martial and what else I should change on the rear end suspension?
I just want to purchase the rear end stuff so I could be done with this suspension.
Ok I guess I was asking repetitive questions because I got no answers back lol.
ALSO - Keep an eye on Rock Auto - they shipped me mismatched tie rod ends. One True Moog, and one that was a Moog box with the "555" brand inside. They claim they're fine to use this way, even though an idiot can see the difference in quality when side-by-side - and would not return them unless I paid for shipping! Not Cool, and something to be aware of.
I got the the mismatched Tie Rod Ends, and the Asia-Spec made in the USA look beefier but the 555 from Japan look more, I would say properly spherical, especially the rubber boot.
There is a local store that has another USA Moog, any info on which is better Japan made 555 or USA Asia-Spec Moog with the Tie Rod Ends?
I bought everything that I listed and asked questions about on the front and rear and I was wondering where to find all the Torque Specs?
Ok guys it's been awhile since I posted this but I just got around to installing it all.
I have a problem with the rear, I have TRD part # 48725-SE120 Which says its for the Carrier Arm Bushing and Rear Lower Arm Bushing #1. So I purchased pretty much every bushing they make in the rear but had 2 that were missing.
In this pic, does that mean that the arm 48710A on the left side of it with the bushing and screw going in it and the other side which is the spindle which has a bushing are the same? I only bought one set and it says Axel Carrier Bushing on The Package.
In the same picture with the upper control arm, I only have the right bushing and they don't make a left side. I'm in a hurry and haven't even read this post over but I remember someone telling me not to even mess with the upper because they don't go bad plus what good would it do to only have one new bushing and one old one.
Also screw number 90105-14082 on the rear lower control arm bushing is stuck. Me and a friend cut the bushing up, hammered the hell out of the screw, and tried to cut the screw with no luck. I want to heat it up, but there are a lot of rubber parts around that I'm afraid with get effected. What should I do?
Please answer with some quick info so I could order the missing bushing.
What do you guys recommend I replace on my 98 GS400 with 108k miles on it? I've replaced the balljoints already, but nothing else. I am dropped on df210/kybgr2 and have 19" g35 wheels on. Tire wears out on the inside a little faster than the outside and is not too much of a problem, but how do I reduce that? How often should I be flipping my tires, if at all? I also just recently started to experience the 50-55mph vibrations, but I think that is from when I had the tire shop guys take my driver side wheel off to check for leaks and he didn't reinstall the lugnuts using the "star" method.