Sportskid1

iTrader: (1)

I want to get much more adjustability in my IS350 so I can tune it for track days and I was wondering if anyone had any feed back on the Megan Front Upper Camber Arms compared to the SPC ball joints. Couldn't find anything in a search as thay are relatively new. I like that idea that the Meagans have +/- 2 to 3 degrees of adjustment while I understand that the SPC's have plus or minus 1.5deg depending on how you install them. Plus I have heard that the SPCs have potential issues with clearances and can move on you a bit. Since I track the car 4-5 days a year I really want something that will be rock solid and will not fail. Think the UCA's are worth the extra $175 for the set.

For the rear I will more than likely just install a set or camber arms and call it good. What is the real benefit of adjustable lower control arms in the rear compared to a camber arm to justify the price of the LCA's.

Also how difficult is the DIY install. I would think that the full camber arms would actually be easier to install than the ball joints as you just replace the entier arm as opposed to try and deal with pressing a ball joint in and out. Also how hard are the rear camber arms to install? Thanks so all the help in advance.

WylieKylie

iTrader: (2)

I'm newer to this platform than you, but I think I am trying to accomplish the same thing as you so here are a couple of thoughts.

I think you have answered your own question with respect to the Megan arms vs. SPC ball joint. I agree that the complete Megan arm is probably the way to go.

For the rear end, have a look at this diagram:

2 is the camber arm
3 is a second upper arm
4 is a toe arm
6 is a trailing or traction arm
7 is the lower arm

Depending on how much adjustment is in the OEM toe arm I think you may need adjustable toe arms as well as the camber arms. With a multi-link setup like the rear end has it is rare that you can change one aspect of the alignment without affecting another. I'm guessing as you add negative camber (with #2) you will also add toe out, and as you know toe will eat your tires for lunch. I also think you may need both adjustable upper arms (2 &3) in order to give the camber adjustment you are after.

As far as an aftermarket lower arm goes, those are adjustable for length, so increasing the length of that arm is going to give you negative camber. It may be the better (and cheaper, 1 lower arm vs two upper arms and a toe arm) way to go if the lower arm is able to give you the camber you want without throwing everything else out of whack.

Hopefully someone with more knowledge of the exact rear suspension geometry can chime in and answer questions about the rear end better than I, because right now it's looking pretty pricey to add the adjustment we want.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

I've haven't heard of clearance issues (besides the fact that when lowered and hitting a speed bump at speed it'll likely hit the upper shock tower, but a stock UCA will do that too). I have read of issues with of the SPC ball joint "moving", but I can tell you that was due to an error in installation. I've had mine on since the beginning of the year and have had zero issues with them. The key is too torque down the ball joint to spec, then back it off, then do it again, back it off, and then torque for the final time...just like torqueing new ARP rods bolts to a new rod. For added "protection" throw on a little blue Loctite on the threads. Don't forget you might have to grind away a bit of the lower lip of the UCA to apply a large amount of + camber via the ball joints.

Why LCAs over various arms? I'll let Figs Engineering, the best LCA on the market for our 2IS models, do the explaining :

http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...&product_id=58

Yes, the Megan UCAs would be an easier install versus the SPCs. But if you have access to a nice press (like me), you'll have no problem with the install.

Rear camber arms are cake; remove the 1-time only use OEM nut on the factory arm near the knuckle and remove the 17mm bolt on the other end. With some persuasion the arm can be pulled from its place. Measure the factory arm holes and equal that to the Megan arms and install. You will want to find a nice, large, thick set of 2 washers to use in conjunction with the Megan arm's ball joint as they only come with a nut.

Hope this gives you a little more insight.

Sportskid1

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the great advice. Since I don't have a press to remove the ball joint I think I am just going to go with the Meagan UCA's up front. I figure by the time I pay someone to install the SBC's due to my lack of tools any cost advantage will be gone and in the end the new UCAs are probably a better solution in the long run.

For the rear I will probably just start with the cabmer arms. I am only going for -1.5 deg of camber in the rear so I am hoping there is enough adjustments in the stock toe arm to acheive this with zero toe. Also might also install coils so after dropping the car a bit I really shouldn't need to much adjustment to get to the -1.5.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

^Just a word of advise, install the coils and arms all at the same time. And then get one alignment thereafter.

k1ngph1l

iTrader: (5)

I just bought the Megan UCA and will be installing them this weekend. I have the spc ball joints installed right now but need more negative still so I bought the UCA. I am slightly worried because with the spc ball joints on full negative I only had about 1-2 mm between the strut so I'm not sure if the UCA will even allow me to go more negative when I dont have enough strut clearance.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

^Let us know what happens during your test-fitting. So what is your current - camber degree with the SPCs?

Sportskid1

iTrader: (1)

Defenatly let us know how the install goes of the Meagn UCA. If they seem to work well I think I am going to pull the trigger.

Sportskid1

iTrader: (1)

Let me know if you can get the UCA 2 upper bolts out without removing the struts. Doesn't look like there is much room to work with up there.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

You can with the right tools. But with stock springs, there is much less room to work with for sure.

thuynh100

iTrader: (1)

have you looked into Figs front camber adjustable bushings? they only adjust about +/- 1 degree but heard good stuff about them. No clearance issues with the arm. Heres the link.

http://shopfigs.com/v1/LEXUS%20bushi...product_id=197

WylieKylie

iTrader: (2)

^ If I understand correctly the FIGS bushings are pressed into UCA, so if you wanted to adjust the camber you would have to remove the UCA, press the bushings out, rotate them and press them back in. That seems like a-lot of work if you want to make an adjustment, and how many times can you press those bushings in and out before you wear out the UCA?

I do think that would be a good option if you are in the situation of wanting "more" camber (maybe to fit some crazy sized wheels & tires), but not necessarily having an idea of how much camber you want, or not wanting to adjust it later on.

heyarms

iTrader: (5)

Seen someone mention that the Megan front UCA's bang the fender on dips (if you drive slammed).

Any idea for the few here that have them if they would stop me from bagging my car all the way down? If they hit fender on dips, i imagine that means i wouldnt be able to bag down all the way...

statename

Swap the stock allen bolts in the top of the Megan UCA for some regular Grade 8 bolts, this should give a little more clearance.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

^It's not necessarily the bolts or bolt heads that are hitting the upper shock tower, it's the very end of the UCA itself...as is what happens with my stock IS-F UCA with SPC ball joints.