Sway bar kit
02-26-14, 03:15 AM
#106
So ya they emailed me back and I actually got them. Shipping was fine and they discounted me slightly because they were a "display" set apparently. All said and done the set was $130!!!??? Amazing price since I didn't even have a front bar. They look like sway bars. The rear is decently thicker than stock. Considering I have 25/20k springs, these should be fine.
Weird that front is red and rear is black though.
And you could def use a straight bar here, honestly I run an FD3s (RX7) rear bar in my Cressida and this looks very similar, maybe just wider. I may try it out as there are many cheap choices of rx7 rear bar on the market. (Racing beat/tanabe/etc)
G.
SERIALNINE sedankings.
Weird that front is red and rear is black though.
And you could def use a straight bar here, honestly I run an FD3s (RX7) rear bar in my Cressida and this looks very similar, maybe just wider. I may try it out as there are many cheap choices of rx7 rear bar on the market. (Racing beat/tanabe/etc)
G.
SERIALNINE sedankings.
Last edited by SERIALN9NE; 02-26-14 at 03:19 AM.
02-26-14, 08:48 PM
#108
Remember shorter lever = more effective bar. My Rancho Challenger GTIII bar could adjust between 400 and 900 lb/in deflection. CRAZY stiff at the short lever position. It was awesome, but very very stiff. That was my solid 1.25" front bar. I think the lever could shorten down to around 4-5 inches. Or go out to 6-7 inches (maybe more). You had to be careful with that design, if you didn't keep checking torque on it, the bar end adjuster would slip sideways and explode the Heim joints at the end. And usually a bad time, say in a corner where you would go from stiff front bar to NO bar! I loved the handling, but those bars were somewhat a nightmare too. I stripped the bar to frame bolts out, I drilled, tapped and put new bolts in and stripped them out again. I had to go with starter bolts and spacers (aka, nuts and washers) and put a nut on the other side, all INSIDE the frame.
I am concerned with the bar ends breaking. Big concern. I personally would look at solid rear bar, the weight diff isn't that big, and more weight on back is welcome (better weight balance in the overall car), the weight is lower than CG, and behind it, so added weight is a good thing.
What I am thinking is a solid rear bar, bent to the right shape, and then spline the ends, have the adjusters fit the splines so it can't turn (a problem with the Rancho design that this will fix), and then the user can adjust 2-3 inches back and forth to adjust the lever.
I haven't done the math to calc how much torsion is in the stock bar to the aftermarket bars. And how much a 1" or 1.1" solid rear bar would be.
Being such a simple rear bar design would keep costs low. If you can get a straight solid bar with splined ends the proper length, and then bend it at the right place, you have a pretty darn low cost rear bar.
Adjustable front is great, but if you had a good thick fixed front and adjustable rear that would give the tuneability you need. Keeps more reliability in front too.
I am concerned with the bar ends breaking. Big concern. I personally would look at solid rear bar, the weight diff isn't that big, and more weight on back is welcome (better weight balance in the overall car), the weight is lower than CG, and behind it, so added weight is a good thing.
What I am thinking is a solid rear bar, bent to the right shape, and then spline the ends, have the adjusters fit the splines so it can't turn (a problem with the Rancho design that this will fix), and then the user can adjust 2-3 inches back and forth to adjust the lever.
I haven't done the math to calc how much torsion is in the stock bar to the aftermarket bars. And how much a 1" or 1.1" solid rear bar would be.
Being such a simple rear bar design would keep costs low. If you can get a straight solid bar with splined ends the proper length, and then bend it at the right place, you have a pretty darn low cost rear bar.
Adjustable front is great, but if you had a good thick fixed front and adjustable rear that would give the tuneability you need. Keeps more reliability in front too.
Splined ends do little but add cost since you cannot use a straight bar here. My goal is to have bladed ends and push them out further to impart more leverage on the arms. If you buy our rear LCA, We have pickup points for the sway bar further out than stock for greater influence. There are limits to what can fit in the bushing area. 25mm is going to be outside the channel diameter and require a special mount. This adds cost again. I have thought of most of this but practically speaking there are very few withing the already small market that would take a higher end bar like this. Maybe I am wrong. In general I am willing to bet that most sway bar breakages are due to poorly lubricated bushings. This causes binding and overstress between mounting points.
I always listen to feedback though, so noted on all counts.
Mike
I always listen to feedback though, so noted on all counts.
Mike
02-26-14, 10:06 PM
#110
02-26-14, 10:41 PM
#111
Nothing wrong with stock TYPE end links, provided they're the correct length and the ball joint type with no bushings. (Most are these days, stock ones are as well) there is no need to adjust end links independently of each other so why have adjustable end links. Just get good quality correct length ones and That's it.
G.
SERIALNINE sedankings.
G.
SERIALNINE sedankings.
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GSdre (05-15-20)
02-27-14, 08:01 PM
#113
Thanks for the fast replies. A few friends been running into endlinks problems with aftermarket (on is300 and is f) sways so was a bit worried/confused what to run when i purchase the sways. Guess the waiting now begins to see if or when figs will come out. Any ETA Mike?
02-28-14, 02:42 AM
#114
Don't forget about FIGS tie rods. There rather expensive but with there ball-pivot mechanism there less likely to wear out much like the stock rubber bushings.... 2nd choice would be Moog which i think i will be gong with myself
03-02-14, 10:55 AM
#118
The rear bar is about as simple as it gets, x distance across, 90 degree turn to the bar ends.
The front isn't too far off, but look on this thread, I posted pictures of my aftermarket set I bought on eBay.
The front isn't too far off, but look on this thread, I posted pictures of my aftermarket set I bought on eBay.
03-03-14, 09:57 AM
#120
You are correct, I was thinking there was a bend in the OE bar to clear the trunk pan but just caught the pics. The machined ends will still add cost and I am not sure people would be willing to pay the extra. The front needs to bend to clear the pan. My statement was to indicate that this is on our todo list, development has yet to be initiated.
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Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions