Oh, and if the lever on these is shorter than stock, then it will increase the overall effectiveness of the bar. Thickness is not the only attribute.
My 80 Turbo T/A has a Rancho Challenger GTIII front bar, only 1.25", but it is adjustable and it is 900 lb/in deflection at max. This is crazy stiff (yes, it DID rip the bar/frame bushings out of the FRAME), to compare, HO Racing has a 1.5" bar and it is only 550 lb/in deflection. My car is thinner, but yet is much stiffer.
I am here to tell you, there is such thing as too stiff. I love the stiff bars I had, but they don't come without baggage. They had heim joints for link kits and they would breat catastrophically at times, which could be dangerous, for me, never in a hard handling condition, usually over a pot hole.
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They weren't packaged the best, they were wrapped in plastic, but not really anchored down in the box, the front did poke a hole in the box, didn't seem to hurt it. The rear bar has a small chip of paint off front hitting the other bar. Else initially seems ok.
Thanks for the pics.. They sure are beefy.. your thoughts on handling when installed... i probably would go with poly bushings just because The TRD and Daizen use them.. I guess it would "complete" the package..
Got the old bar off, can't get new one on due to some broken bolts.
Relatively easy, but here is a run down on how.
Allen wrench to fit link kit fitting
3" and 12" extensions for the ratchets.
1. Remove covers over control arm. (I broke bolts here too)
2. Spray PB Blaster on bolt coming out to the rear of the arm, in line with the link to the bar.
3. Remove 12mm bolt that goes thru the arm and on pass side, connects to the suspension height sensor.
4. Spray PB Blaster on Sway Bar to Frame Bolts. Let sit for a bit.
5. Remove Bar to Frame bolts (12mm with 12" extension)
6. Remove bar from car.
7. Remove link kit from old bar (unless you have new ones), this needs 14mm wrench and allen wrench to fit inside bolt end to hold it free. I used vice grips due to not seeing the allen wrench hole in the bolt end. Pain in the caboose that way. It is very tight.
8. Install bushings on new bar, note which way is proper, flat edge UP.
9. Install link kit on new bar. Note the link kit is outside the ends of the bar.
10. Fish bar in car.
11. Bolt bar to frame
12. Bolt link kit back into control arms.
Fit new bushings on the bar, I used some Amsoil MP to let it slide on easily. The supplied bushings are right size, but are a bit different type, recommend get some better bushings if you can. The OEM design is proper for the bracket, the supplied bushing is for a flat bar bracket, look at the front bracket in the picture below. OEM brackets are different and require a different bushing.
I am putting rear on first, my natural inclination, as OEM typically sets up the car to being a tendency to understeer, this will either make it much more neutral or oversteer. I ran my 85 Cutlass with factory small front bar and 442 rear bar for years, was nice and balanced, but overall was more enjoyable to drive once I got the 442 front bar in, but lost the neutrality in handling. Just have to add power to make it oversteer then....
I just ordered some cobalt drill bits to drill out the bolts that broke off. Frustrating.... But not unexpected...
I guess based on what I see so far, for the price, it is impossible to beat. Bars shouldn't be very expensive, they are bars.....nothing more than that with a couple bends and ends welded on.