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rear lca

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Old 02-24-13, 10:25 PM
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scott101
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Default rear lca

Hello, I am trying to remove this from the subframe. I was wondering if there is a special way to do it?

i successfully removed the nut, but the bolt seems to be stuck. Does the bolt thread into the lca or subframe and need to be unscrewed? or should it just be hit our with a hammer like the trailing arm, or whatever the one is thats next to it.

thanks for the help
scott
Old 02-25-13, 09:39 AM
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OG Dada
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If it's still attached to the hub, other parts attached to the hub are putting pressure on it. Try to lift the hub with a jack to a level height to remove stress. If it's no longer attached to the hub, the bolt might be at aweird angle or just simply stuck. Try hitting it with a screwdriver and hammer to push it out, don't hit the bolt itself with a hammer or it might warp the thread.
Old 02-25-13, 11:36 AM
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sc400ka
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if it wont come out with you hitting the bolt the lower control arm, and bolt needs to be replaced. which means you get to use cutting tools!
Old 02-25-13, 04:09 PM
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ok, thanks, ya, its the bolt that goes through it and into the subframe. the nuts off but it wont move, now that i know its not threaded, I will give it some harder wacks with a hammer
Old 02-25-13, 08:06 PM
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estomax
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make sure you leave the nut on the end of the bolt, otherwise the bolt will be toast. with the nut on it, you can hammer on the nut until the bolt starts to move and then hopefully it will come out on its own. Use plenty of antiseize when reassembling.

i just took my whole rear subframe apart and rebuilt it, so let me know if you have questions.

on my car the lower strut bolt did the same thing as you are talking about, lots of PB Blaster and a hammer did the trick in the end.

Marko
Old 02-25-13, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by estomax
make sure you leave the nut on the end of the bolt, otherwise the bolt will be toast. with the nut on it, you can hammer on the nut until the bolt starts to move and then hopefully it will come out on its own. Use plenty of antiseize when reassembling.

i just took my whole rear subframe apart and rebuilt it, so let me know if you have questions.

on my car the lower strut bolt did the same thing as you are talking about, lots of PB Blaster and a hammer did the trick in the end.

Marko
ok, thanks, i already messed up the threads on that one particular bolt, luckily they are plentiful from the yard

some of the arms have bolts with washers that allow for adjustment. they have little tick marks around the outside. can anyone tell me, are the bolts attached to these washers (one piece) or are they seperate pieces?

thanks
scott
Old 02-25-13, 09:55 PM
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the camber adjuster bolts have the washers attached (cast as part of the bolt), but on the nut end the washer is loose. if those are stuck (one of my front lca ones was.. had to sawzall it through the bushing...) then remove the nut and washer on the nut side, spray pb blaster, and hammer away.
Old 02-28-13, 07:52 AM
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awesome news, the lca bolt on the subframe i picked up last night was not siezed so I was able to get it out easily. dont know it what it is about lcas, but 2/3 of the lca bolts ive dealt with were frozen to the lca inner bushing sleeve and did not come out.

anyways, now i have to deal with a stuck upper control arm nut/bolt. then im almost ready to swap in the new parts.

i also now have 3 dead 3/8" ratchets. two are really old and the mech broke, and on my craftsman one the actual square metal piece snapped. i wonder if i can get a warranty on the craftsman
Old 02-28-13, 11:07 AM
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yeah I always end up breaking mine on things like this. With craftsamn stuff you shuld be able to just walk into a sears and they should give you a replacement, I havent done it in a while but its generally a no questions asked sort of warrantly on hand tools.
Old 02-28-13, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Ali SC3
yeah I always end up breaking mine on things like this. With craftsamn stuff you shuld be able to just walk into a sears and they should give you a replacement, I havent done it in a while but its generally a no questions asked sort of warrantly on hand tools.
awesome, thanks for the tip. i will try osh first because its right down the street, if that fails, ill go to sears
Old 03-01-13, 07:04 AM
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you should buy yourself a couple of breaker bars so you don't use ratchets to break bolts loose. ratchets should only be used to ratchet the bolts out after they are broken loose.

is there a harbor freight near by you? Many cheap tools, especially breaker bars, work just fine from there.

Marko
Old 03-03-13, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by estomax
you should buy yourself a couple of breaker bars so you don't use ratchets to break bolts loose. ratchets should only be used to ratchet the bolts out after they are broken loose.

is there a harbor freight near by you? Many cheap tools, especially breaker bars, work just fine from there.

Marko
yah, ive buy most of my stuff form them, i was using my breaker bar on one side and my little ratchet on the other side to hold the bolt, but yeah, i agree, im planning on going and getting some more stuff from them
Old 03-04-13, 07:33 AM
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get some air my friend harbor freight was having a decent deal a few weeks are so. air makes the world go around alot faster. however i just got air tools myself so i know it can be pricey!
Old 03-04-13, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by sc400ka
get some air my friend harbor freight was having a decent deal a few weeks are so. air makes the world go around alot faster. however i just got air tools myself so i know it can be pricey!
ya, ive been meaning to get an impact wrench, i have a compressor and a few air tools, already, so all i need is the wrench, ive just been too cheap because ive been buying parts

out of curiosity, for impact wrenches, what foot lb ratings should I look for?
-scott
Old 03-04-13, 02:40 PM
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i have Ingersoll-Rand 500 ft/lb. 1/2'' Impact Wrench


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