Bawlzdeep

Just bought the car today and it runs/drives like a dream besides the brakes. The seller just put new pads on yesterday. The faster the speed the worse the vibration, mostly steering wheel still feel alot in the body too.

Is this just warped rotors?

The searches that I've done lead me to believe that blank rotors are the way to go. Although I do demand a lot from my brakes, I'm not tracking the car, it's a DD. And I agree that the Ebay specials are garbage. I like the Duralast quality parts that I used on my 4Runner's Tundra brake swap.

Just wanting to make sure that it is the obvious rotors and not a common SC flaw that I'm not familiar with yet. I'm open to suggestions for upgrade as long as it's not in the Brembo $2K+ area. Common swaps like Tundra direct fit upgrade to the 4Runners.

Thanks for the help, I hate being a newb!

TheAzn

iTrader: (2)

Check the wheel, see if the lugs are on tight. Or even perhaps if the wheel is sitting flush meaning no corrosion on anything between where the rotor and wheel contacts each other.

Other than that, it could be warped rotors.

On my other car, I had purchased Duralast pads. They are all semi metallic which is why they're cheap priced. I was doing 60 and had to come to a dead halt... MASSIVE BRAKE FADE! After that virbrations every time I hit the brakes. After that, I went on to get ceramic pads. Cost more but performance is way better.

rcchris7

iTrader: (1)

Likely warped rotors especially if you used the economy brand when you installed them.. I used the cheapest rotors on my beaters and they all warp after a few months and shake

durps

iTrader: (8)

While we are talking about pads, what are some that are better than oem but arent too expensive. Like 70 $ or so.

2JTsc300

its ur front rotors

estomax

iTrader: (2)

does it vibrate only when you press the brakes? Or does it vibrate even when cruising? If it only vibrates (or at least mostly) during braking, then definately the rotors. If it vibrates when you're driving, then either a bent / unbalanced wheel and tire or a flat spot on the tire.

Marko

mk4r34

iTrader: (1)

Welcome bawlzdeep!!!!..It does sound like it might be warped rotors.It can be other things also like arm or steering rack bushings etc.I would get the rotors resurfaced to see if that's the issue or just get new rotors now.Is this only when braking or driving fast on the hwy?The faster yu go and brake the more you feel it right?How many miles are on the car?

Toyboxx

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like warped rotors. Since you're going to be around the brakes, I'd look into the LS400 rotors, and calipers. They're a nice upgrade for fairly cheap, and I would buy the rotors from R1 concepts. The LS400 brakes I believe are a direct bolt on as well.

Bawlzdeep

Wish that I had read that post about the LS swap before I got the new rotors. I got the Duralast rotors for under $80 for the pair. The old ones still have a TON of meat on them and no lip around the outer ring (what you see from excessive wear). Pads are new, unknown brand. Bearings are good and everything feels tight up front. I also had to grind about an 1/8th inch off the corner of both calipers to fit the Avalon wheels/new tires that came with the deal. I hate the chrome rims that were on it. I'd go deep dish but probably only up to an 18". Still looking at these amazing pics here trying to figure out which way I'm going with it. Pretty set on the Nitto Invo tires though. I've had great luck with them on my Subarus and my friend has them on his CTSV. Not as good as the NT05R for drag but more for cornering.

Longshort- breaks are good and shutter is gone. Might have an engine mount problem though.

Avalon wheels on it now. Chrome ones are for sale $400 obo. They are clutter, make me an offer