Lowering kits?
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Lowering kits?
I have a 99 Lexus gs300 and I have got my car tinted, blacked out my grill, emblems, and tail lights, Im starting to get curious on how difficult/expensive it is to lower my car. Anyone personally purchase lowering kits, or know of places that will do this well? This may be dumb but I'm still learning so any help is appreciated!
Also a side question, anyone know how to change the trunk settings, a long time ago when I pressed the trunk button from my remote the trunk would pop open completely, but not it simply unlocks and is barely open.. Just curious
Also a side question, anyone know how to change the trunk settings, a long time ago when I pressed the trunk button from my remote the trunk would pop open completely, but not it simply unlocks and is barely open.. Just curious
#2
Pole Position
iTrader: (8)
U can lower ur car from $200-$5500 or higher
U just joined but u should read all the stickies in the forum... Click on the suspension section... and in the search u will find threads anout ur trunk question. Click around there is a lot of info on your lowering question.
U just joined but u should read all the stickies in the forum... Click on the suspension section... and in the search u will find threads anout ur trunk question. Click around there is a lot of info on your lowering question.
#4
Pole Position
iTrader: (8)
If you dont plan on going air... Go with coilovers. I bought springs because i never adjust my height. I do wish i had the option to go lower even though im happy with my ride comfort.
Once u decide which route you are going i think we can help u out a lot more. But def search up cause there are tons of posts with pros and cons with these options. The $200 lowering is paying your bro to cut ur stock springs lol please dont do that.
Usually you can go to a reputable rim shop to have them toss these on for you.
Good luck and happy modding!
Once u decide which route you are going i think we can help u out a lot more. But def search up cause there are tons of posts with pros and cons with these options. The $200 lowering is paying your bro to cut ur stock springs lol please dont do that.
Usually you can go to a reputable rim shop to have them toss these on for you.
Good luck and happy modding!
#5
i went with lowering springs on 20" hr3 concaved all around rims but then i decided to go with a 19" with huge lip but then i was left with a fender to tire gap so in the end i decided to buy megan ez street i paid around 600 these will slam my car if i really wanted to even tough im bagged now on those same coiovers and they also have damper adjustment but defenatly dont cut stock springs or burn em
#7
Pole Position
iTrader: (3)
Mikefoxx is correct it's all about what you are looking for. If you plan to sit on the ground air may be the way to go. Or the most common route would be coilovers. Check out other postings for detail. BC, Megan, JIC, and Tein. If your on a budget Megan EZs maybe the best option.
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#10
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
#11
Racer
iTrader: (2)
well, me and my buddy did the ball joints and coilovers all within one day. from like 8am-8pm. 1st ball joint took almost an hour, second took about 12 minutes. First coilover took about 30 minutes, the remaining 3 took about 15 minutes a piece. Having a friend and Impact tools saves a ton of time. If i did it by myself it woulda probably took me all weekend. But once they are installed, the time consuming part took place. Which is lower the car, check your height and try again. We must have jacked it up and took the wheels off and vice versa 20 times before the night was over. My buddy is more "Mechanical" than me. Funny is i had ALL the DIY's and videos for the ball joints from this forum and we didnt even use them. Ended up doing it "our way". Slightly different.
#12
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Join Date: Jan 2013
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well, me and my buddy did the ball joints and coilovers all within one day. from like 8am-8pm. 1st ball joint took almost an hour, second took about 12 minutes. First coilover took about 30 minutes, the remaining 3 took about 15 minutes a piece. Having a friend and Impact tools saves a ton of time. If i did it by myself it woulda probably took me all weekend. But once they are installed, the time consuming part took place. Which is lower the car, check your height and try again. We must have jacked it up and took the wheels off and vice versa 20 times before the night was over. My buddy is more "Mechanical" than me. Funny is i had ALL the DIY's and videos for the ball joints from this forum and we didnt even use them. Ended up doing it "our way". Slightly different.
I see you on here often and am glad to see you involved in the threads. It seems as though most of the "OG's" of this forum don't have the time, or lost interest. Keep it up!
#13
Racer
iTrader: (2)
haha, man thats a lot of questions. but i sure wish someone woulda answered those for me without searching for 2 months. I will add the whole process ( i tried to take as many pics as i could ) to my build thread as soon as i can sort through them. To answer your questions:::... .. .
I believe the final measurement i felt completely happy with ended up being 24 and a 1/4 in from ground to center of wheel well.
Nothing rubs. Well, i suppose if i drove like an idiot i could get everything to rub haha. If i hit a big dip in the road dead on i will feel the inevitable upper control arm bang against the shock tower. Which would be an easy enough fix. But i been driving lowered vehicles forever, so i know my angles and limits and AZ is a very flat streeted state in general. I had to cut / shave my fenders. Didn't have to roll them but i shaved a good amount out of them and what was left of the splash guards went into the trash can. Once i did that i had at least a finger or two of room between tire and fender.
I replaced the ball joints. And while i was under there tried to tighten any bolt i saw and most were all snug. I noticed my upper control arms had been replaced and were newer so that eased my mind. Tie rods looked fine also but not sure how to tell if they were bad anyways.
As far as the ride, i am sure you have seen the various "megan ez" threads where people are like "rides just as good as factory" and you don't know if they are saying that because they are so happy that they are lowered but i can tell you the ride is"pretty much as good as factory" but better to me because it doesn't have the body roll it had before. It pretty much rides on rails and i am sure strut bars and sway etc can only make it better. It has a little bit of a "lowered car bounce" i guess but i clicked my damper on the Megans all the way down to the 2nd to last HARD setting. I didnt want too much travel and that feels dayum good to me.
Someone mentioned to check what i was on as i felt it had lowering springs already. And it did. It had Eibach Pro Lowering Springs and KYB Struts. Looking back at the last picture i took of it on the springs almost makes me laugh that i thought it looked decent.
My car is sitting at 199,992 Miles. I just put a post-it note on my dash saying "bring camera" to take a picture of the odometer hitting the monumental 200,000 Mile mark on her. Since the person that owned the car before me is overseas serving i haven't any info on when those Eibach's were installed.
Most places that sell the Megan's will price match anybody else that sells them within a few dollars. Once i figured that out i didn't much care who sold them to me because at the time they were on backorder from Megan so nobody had them in stock. I just started searching and calling anyone i could find that had them. I sent all the places a note saying, "do you have in stock and will you match this price" etc.. - I ended up getting mine from "ar_racing09" <-ebay name - in Chicago.
Overall i love them. But overall i have fallen in love with this GS for so many reasons. The aftermarket world and do it yourself options on this car is mind-blowing. Also seems so easy to work on ( kinda like a chevy truck ).
Here's a quick teaser for ya. Hope that answered your questions.
I believe the final measurement i felt completely happy with ended up being 24 and a 1/4 in from ground to center of wheel well.
Nothing rubs. Well, i suppose if i drove like an idiot i could get everything to rub haha. If i hit a big dip in the road dead on i will feel the inevitable upper control arm bang against the shock tower. Which would be an easy enough fix. But i been driving lowered vehicles forever, so i know my angles and limits and AZ is a very flat streeted state in general. I had to cut / shave my fenders. Didn't have to roll them but i shaved a good amount out of them and what was left of the splash guards went into the trash can. Once i did that i had at least a finger or two of room between tire and fender.
I replaced the ball joints. And while i was under there tried to tighten any bolt i saw and most were all snug. I noticed my upper control arms had been replaced and were newer so that eased my mind. Tie rods looked fine also but not sure how to tell if they were bad anyways.
As far as the ride, i am sure you have seen the various "megan ez" threads where people are like "rides just as good as factory" and you don't know if they are saying that because they are so happy that they are lowered but i can tell you the ride is"pretty much as good as factory" but better to me because it doesn't have the body roll it had before. It pretty much rides on rails and i am sure strut bars and sway etc can only make it better. It has a little bit of a "lowered car bounce" i guess but i clicked my damper on the Megans all the way down to the 2nd to last HARD setting. I didnt want too much travel and that feels dayum good to me.
Someone mentioned to check what i was on as i felt it had lowering springs already. And it did. It had Eibach Pro Lowering Springs and KYB Struts. Looking back at the last picture i took of it on the springs almost makes me laugh that i thought it looked decent.
My car is sitting at 199,992 Miles. I just put a post-it note on my dash saying "bring camera" to take a picture of the odometer hitting the monumental 200,000 Mile mark on her. Since the person that owned the car before me is overseas serving i haven't any info on when those Eibach's were installed.
Most places that sell the Megan's will price match anybody else that sells them within a few dollars. Once i figured that out i didn't much care who sold them to me because at the time they were on backorder from Megan so nobody had them in stock. I just started searching and calling anyone i could find that had them. I sent all the places a note saying, "do you have in stock and will you match this price" etc.. - I ended up getting mine from "ar_racing09" <-ebay name - in Chicago.
Overall i love them. But overall i have fallen in love with this GS for so many reasons. The aftermarket world and do it yourself options on this car is mind-blowing. Also seems so easy to work on ( kinda like a chevy truck ).
Here's a quick teaser for ya. Hope that answered your questions.
#14
I had a shock/spring set up on my first car I modded, and the second car I went coil overs. Never looked back. I won't even consider anything else. Bags just aren't my style. I love my Megans, and my Tiens I've had over the years.
#15
ur exhaust doesnt even touch the can not good enough lol jk i also have the megan ez streets and i love em also ive been in bagged lexus on stock shocks and i recently bagged my own car with the ez streets and i love that i have damper adjustments with bags but overall with the megans alone i loved it i just wish they made the ez streets for the g35 coupe btw i bought megan street series for that one