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FIGS Front Lower Arm Rear Mount #2 Poly Bushing 90 duro HP

Old 10-28-14, 06:15 PM
  #76  
UniqueTII
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Originally Posted by FIGS
Really depends on why it feels loose. These bushings will stabilize the alignment, but you need to fix what is there first. One thing that people overlook is rear toe settings and how the impact steering response. The multi-link rear has quite a bit of bumpsteer and it behaves like 4 wheel steering as the suspension compresses and rebounds.
Mike
What are the ideal toe settings for the car?
Old 10-28-14, 09:04 PM
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ChickenIS
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Originally Posted by UniqueTII
What are the ideal toe settings for the car?
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...alignment.html
Old 01-03-15, 06:59 PM
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Thanks for the guide! I bought a used 07 IS350 recently and was told/shown that the inside edges of my front tires were wearing unusually fast, and also noticed that the front tires had more tread than the rear tires (indicating that the front tires were replaced early by the previous owner). Found this thread and the corresponding thread in the IS F forum and ordered a set of the 90 duro bushings installed in previously owned brackets. Total cost should come out to $260 after returning the original brackets.

The cheapest quote I got for installation from ~5 places in Houston, TX was $120 so I did it myself. Had to buy a 1/2" torque wrench from Harbor Freight (on sale for $22) to get everything tightened back up to the correct torque and used a 1/2" wrench with 14mm, 17mm, and 22mm sockets (if I remember correctly) and a large breaker bar to loosen the highly torqued stuff. If you buy the ones already pressed into a bracket, all you have to take out on each side is 4 bolts, a bracket, the 22mm nut with washer, and the old bushing in the stock aluminum bracket. I used the spare tire wrench as suggested to deflect the suspension enough to slide the old bracket/bushing out. It is ideal to have a friend to slide the old bracket out and the new bracket in while you are deflecting the suspension. Should take around 2-4 hours start to finish including removing/reattaching the bottom plastic guards depending on how fast you go.

I can feel the road through the steering wheel slightly more now. Looking forward to going to the track and autocross events without eating up my front tires now!

Last edited by andper10; 01-03-15 at 07:08 PM.
Old 01-04-15, 03:33 PM
  #79  
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Finally got my FIGS bushings. When you install them where exactly do you add the grease which was provided and how much?
Old 01-04-15, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Rudebwoy30
Finally got my FIGS bushings. When you install them where exactly do you add the grease which was provided and how much?
The grease is not needed initially as they are pre-greased..but it will go in between the center tube and the polyurethane material. There are cross hatch features to retain the grease for a while.
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Old 01-05-15, 07:10 AM
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Thanks for the reply FIGS. so in The future when the bushing starts making noise I would need to remove bracket grease it then reinstall. And to verify, the grease will go in the center of bushing where the LCA bolt goes thru the bushing?
Originally Posted by FIGS
The grease is not needed initially as they are pre-greased..but it will go in between the center tube and the polyurethane material. There are cross hatch features to retain the grease for a while.
Old 01-05-15, 11:26 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by Rudebwoy30
Thanks for the reply FIGS. so in The future when the bushing starts making noise I would need to remove bracket grease it then reinstall. And to verify, the grease will go in the center of bushing where the LCA bolt goes thru the bushing?
I think that what Mike is saying is that the metal tube that goes through the poly eurathane material slides out and you grease the inside of the poly eurathane and re-insert the metal tube then re-install the bushing to the LCA. I don't know how long the original grease lasts and that is a good question. My son has an '09 is250 RWD with FIGS euro bushing, FIGS front UCA camber kit(set to neg. 0.5), little toe to offset deflection at highway speed, FIGS rear camber adjustable LCA (set to neg 0.5) little toe to offset deflection at highway speed. These two camber adjusters can go from neg 1.5 to neg 0.5 for on track and (for him) off track normal street driving, he doesn't do any track racing. We ran this set up all last summer for 5 months (it's parked every the winter) and we got great even, across the tread surface, wear like you expect from any other stock car. We expect to get (based on the mileage so far) at least 40-45K (as opposed to the 11-14K we got before. In 70K we went thorugh 6 sets of tires, the front being the worse to the point of "cord showing blow out time" (he was very lucky). You will see a big difference with your bushing.
Old 01-05-15, 08:38 PM
  #83  
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Thanks for the feed back JOEDAD. I am hoping to run the same set up in regards to the numbers. I would like my toe to be very minimal, somewhere near 0 and have the camber -0.5 to -1.0 all around

FIGS can you confirm this. If bushing starts getting noisy we have to remove the big metal sleeve the surrounds the bushing. Add grease and slide the metal sleeve back on then press it back into the bracket and then onto the LCA.

Originally Posted by joedad
I think that what Mike is saying is that the metal tube that goes through the poly eurathane material slides out and you grease the inside of the poly eurathane and re-insert the metal tube then re-install the bushing to the LCA. I don't know how long the original grease lasts and that is a good question. My son has an '09 is250 RWD with FIGS euro bushing, FIGS front UCA camber kit(set to neg. 0.5), little toe to offset deflection at highway speed, FIGS rear camber adjustable LCA (set to neg 0.5) little toe to offset deflection at highway speed. These two camber adjusters can go from neg 1.5 to neg 0.5 for on track and (for him) off track normal street driving, he doesn't do any track racing. We ran this set up all last summer for 5 months (it's parked every the winter) and we got great even, across the tread surface, wear like you expect from any other stock car. We expect to get (based on the mileage so far) at least 40-45K (as opposed to the 11-14K we got before. In 70K we went thorugh 6 sets of tires, the front being the worse to the point of "cord showing blow out time" (he was very lucky). You will see a big difference with your bushing.
Old 01-06-15, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Rudebwoy30
Thanks for the feed back JOEDAD. I am hoping to run the same set up in regards to the numbers. I would like my toe to be very minimal, somewhere near 0 and have the camber -0.5 to -1.0 all around

FIGS can you confirm this. If bushing starts getting noisy we have to remove the big metal sleeve the surrounds the bushing. Add grease and slide the metal sleeve back on then press it back into the bracket and then onto the LCA.
you should be able to loosen the LCA nut and push the center tube out with a screw driver, then coat the leading edge and push it back in.
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Old 01-10-15, 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by FIGS
you should be able to loosen the LCA nut and push the center tube out with a screw driver, then coat the leading edge and push it back in.
Will try this next time.

Ordered a set of factory brackets & rubber bushings (because they are inexpensive) to swap out at the next FIGS grease time. I want to give the FIGS a good cleaning and inspection so there will be zero down time. It will be interesting to see how NVH is reduced as a test. I have a set of 1st gen Hankook V12 EVO tires waiting for spring time. Also, planned is a 0 degree toe alignment.
Old 01-12-15, 02:08 PM
  #86  
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Default LCA Bushing

Originally Posted by Rudebwoy30
Thanks for the feed back JOEDAD. I am hoping to run the same set up in regards to the numbers. I would like my toe to be very minimal, somewhere near 0 and have the camber -0.5 to -1.0 all around

FIGS can you confirm this. If bushing starts getting noisy we have to remove the big metal sleeve the surrounds the bushing. Add grease and slide the metal sleeve back on then press it back into the bracket and then onto the LCA.
No, you just remove the metal sleeve that goes "through" the poly eurathane, where the LCA slides through. You don't want to press the main bushing out and then try to repress it in. It's a sleeve about as big around as your little finget, Read the post after mine about pushing it out with a screwdriver.
Old 01-13-15, 08:13 AM
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Thanks.. i get it now. Was a little confused about that, but you all have explained it better.

Originally Posted by joedad
No, you just remove the metal sleeve that goes "through" the poly eurathane, where the LCA slides through. You don't want to press the main bushing out and then try to repress it in. It's a sleeve about as big around as your little finget, Read the post after mine about pushing it out with a screwdriver.
Old 01-19-15, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Rudebwoy30
Thanks.. i get it now. Was a little confused about that, but you all have explained it better.
Sometimes it's hard to visualize without pics, but Mike does a pretty good job. He put up with my stupid questions (he'll never call them stupid) time after time for a few months. Figs sells the best stuff as far as I'm concerned. The cost has saved me at least double what the tires were costing me.
Old 01-26-15, 05:44 AM
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JOEDAD Yea im a visual learner. I get a better grasp of things when i see it in pictures or in person. Yeah i hear FIGS has one of the best parts. What else have you gotten from FIGS besides the Lower control arm rear mount bushing?
Old 02-02-15, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Rudebwoy30
JOEDAD Yea im a visual learner. I get a better grasp of things when i see it in pictures or in person. Yeah i hear FIGS has one of the best parts. What else have you gotten from FIGS besides the Lower control arm rear mount bushing?
In the '09 is250 RWD I have the front upper control arm (UCA)camber adjusters , and, as you know, the front lower rear control arm #90 bushing plus the entry level rear lower control arm (RLCA) which has the eccentric camber adjuster. I have the front and rear camber set at neg. -0,5, and the toe set at approx 1/16 (front and rear) to compensate for deflection at highway speeds, we run 20" rims with much wider tread widths. After one full spring, summer and fall season there is excellent tire wear across the tread face comparable to what all other "non- sport suspension" cars would have. As you know the Lexus is250 RWD has non adjustable cambers front and rear and they usually are in the range of neg. -0.9 to as much as neg. -1.5. Those settings along with the "cushy, oil filled" factory lower arm bushing were, in my opinion, the causes of my extreme (to say the least) inner tread tire wear. Based on my results so far all of these add ons have saved me a ton in tire costs.

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