Introducting Battle Version RUCA!
#1
Introducting Battle Version RUCA!
http://battleversion.com/store/gs300-gs400-gs430-97-05/
BV has finally dropped their RUCA for our cars. This officially completes the rear suspension overhaul.
"A new edition to the Battle Version product line up, our GS300 and 400 Rear upper control arms. These arms were specially designed for the guys looking for the perfect wheel fitment and negative camber. Can be used with either coil over or air bag setup. Our Rlca’s will allow you to get the negative camber you need to tuck your low offset wheels for the best look possible!
We hand make and assemble every arm. The use of our 3- piece self lubricating Teflon injected rod ends will insure maximum durability and long life in daily and extreme use."
They offer..
-: RUCA
-: RLCA
-: Traction Rods
-: Toe Links
BV has finally dropped their RUCA for our cars. This officially completes the rear suspension overhaul.
"A new edition to the Battle Version product line up, our GS300 and 400 Rear upper control arms. These arms were specially designed for the guys looking for the perfect wheel fitment and negative camber. Can be used with either coil over or air bag setup. Our Rlca’s will allow you to get the negative camber you need to tuck your low offset wheels for the best look possible!
We hand make and assemble every arm. The use of our 3- piece self lubricating Teflon injected rod ends will insure maximum durability and long life in daily and extreme use."
They offer..
-: RUCA
-: RLCA
-: Traction Rods
-: Toe Links
#3
I'd email them about that question, as I don't know.. I'm sure you can adjust some positive though, too.
If not then they're just for replacement and negative camber adjustment. The RLCA's/Traction/Toe will probably be more for the 'getting in factory spec'.
EDIT: I shot an email to Matt about 15 minutes ago with some other questions, so I will go ahead and ask him about that, Vwynn, and post what he says back in this thread.
If not then they're just for replacement and negative camber adjustment. The RLCA's/Traction/Toe will probably be more for the 'getting in factory spec'.
EDIT: I shot an email to Matt about 15 minutes ago with some other questions, so I will go ahead and ask him about that, Vwynn, and post what he says back in this thread.
#4
Here's his reply to my email.. We tested them to be able to fix and add camber since the adjustment range is 1.5".
Also I asked him about his bushings.. The bushings are 80% poly and 20% rubber. We do that so they last a long time and also dont crack.
And if they were planning anything else for the front UCA's.. For the fuca's, still looking for a good design that will not be too pricy and still able to adjust the right way.
Also I asked him about his bushings.. The bushings are 80% poly and 20% rubber. We do that so they last a long time and also dont crack.
And if they were planning anything else for the front UCA's.. For the fuca's, still looking for a good design that will not be too pricy and still able to adjust the right way.
#6
so by 1.5" of camber adjustment, means there is 0.75" of additional positive OR negative camber?? anyone know how many degrees is that?
also if I'm looking for more negative camber do I only need the RUCA?? or will I need RLCA, Traction Rods, Toe Links too?
I currently have the SPC rear camber kit and I believe I'm maxed out at -2 degrees already and I might need more - camber if my tires still get shredded after a fender shave
also if I'm looking for more negative camber do I only need the RUCA?? or will I need RLCA, Traction Rods, Toe Links too?
I currently have the SPC rear camber kit and I believe I'm maxed out at -2 degrees already and I might need more - camber if my tires still get shredded after a fender shave
#7
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (27)
I was told by a few friends and one of the main guys at STUDIO. That if you were to get RUCA you should get toe arms as well. The more camber you run the more toe in you'll get and the factory adjustments won't cut it.
Plus its super easy to adjust, I love my toe arms.
Plus its super easy to adjust, I love my toe arms.
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#8
so by 1.5" of camber adjustment, means there is 0.75" of additional positive OR negative camber?? anyone know how many degrees is that?
also if I'm looking for more negative camber do I only need the RUCA?? or will I need RLCA, Traction Rods, Toe Links too?
I currently have the SPC rear camber kit and I believe I'm maxed out at -2 degrees already and I might need more - camber if my tires still get shredded after a fender shave
also if I'm looking for more negative camber do I only need the RUCA?? or will I need RLCA, Traction Rods, Toe Links too?
I currently have the SPC rear camber kit and I believe I'm maxed out at -2 degrees already and I might need more - camber if my tires still get shredded after a fender shave
Toe Links handle the toe in/out. Which you should get regardless and if you're upgrading all of your rear suspension might as well get the traction arms so your rear is quicker to locate when driving.
A camber kit isn't what you really need if you're looking to run more camber. It's just not gonna offer as much adjustment. You should have bought the adjustable mega arms from the start being honest.
#9
well I'm not looking to slam too much, just looking to have no gap between top of tire and fender. I'm on 20" btw, and so far I'm still shredding my 255 tires I just dropped my car off today for a fender shave. If I still have problems with shredding tires I might have to get 245s or look for a way to get more - camber
#10
well I'm not looking to slam too much, just looking to have no gap between top of tire and fender. I'm on 20" btw, and so far I'm still shredding my 255 tires I just dropped my car off today for a fender shave. If I still have problems with shredding tires I might have to get 245s or look for a way to get more - camber
To be honest get the LCA's and Toe Links, run a smaller tire like a 245 and you'll be A1. Shoot after the shave you could probably run LESS camber one you get the camber arms.. What's the specs on the wheels? You got a picture of the tire on the rim?
#11
well I know for a fact that its very difficult to roll the gs fenders without them dimpling, so the body shop just said shave as much as he can up to the welds, where ever they are. (he said anymore will risk the fenders splitting.) Hopefully that will get rid of the shredding sidewall problem. but I was just looking up other peoples fender shave and some have had the fenders completely shaved without splitting.
I don't have pics of the tire on the wheel right now. but the spec is 20x10.5 29+ offset, 255/30/20
I don't have pics of the tire on the wheel right now. but the spec is 20x10.5 29+ offset, 255/30/20
#12
Well I take it that if it's just shredding your tire and not actually cutting through it yet that it's not to bad when it comes to the inner fender and shaving should do the trick. I'd also try putting your coils on full stiff in the rear or at least a couple more clicks to the right to stiffen it more. This will help with the travel of the wheel into your fender well.
#13
well I am on custom BC coils extreme drop kit with 14kg rears, they were installed last week, so I'm expecting them to lower a bit more once they settle. I'm on 8 clicks from the stiffest setting, which apparently is the factory setting from the manual. and its a lil bit bouncy already, it was on full stiff when I first installed it and I felt EVERYTHING on the road.
#14
well I am on custom BC coils extreme drop kit with 14kg rears, they were installed last week, so I'm expecting them to lower a bit more once they settle. I'm on 8 clicks from the stiffest setting, which apparently is the factory setting from the manual. and its a lil bit bouncy already, it was on full stiff when I first installed it and I felt EVERYTHING on the road.