Battle Version Tie rods
07-18-12, 10:15 PM
#1
Battle Version Tie rods
Thought I would share these with you guys. The inner has a 5mm spacer on it. I haven't had time to install them for review yet, once the rest of my parts are in I can give a review of how they feel compared to stock.They look great I'm hoping for some good improvements. Find them on Battle Version's site. Enjoy
07-18-12, 10:21 PM
#2
My uploads keep failing and photobucket is down currently..... 
I plan on running them as measured, close to stock as possible with the inner spacer in addition.
I have new lock washer OEM for the inside but I do not plan on running them, maybe Alex could chime in on if he used them? I will try to remember and ask him before install. I plan to use red locktite and just the spacer no washer. Additional spacer for the joint side are included as well but not shown in the picture, wish this uploading wasn't
I plan on running them as measured, close to stock as possible with the inner spacer in addition.I have new lock washer OEM for the inside but I do not plan on running them, maybe Alex could chime in on if he used them? I will try to remember and ask him before install. I plan to use red locktite and just the spacer no washer. Additional spacer for the joint side are included as well but not shown in the picture, wish this uploading wasn't
07-18-12, 10:39 PM
#4
Pole Position
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Alex did not use the factory lock washer. I installed these on my sc a few weeks ago. Very high quality. Use red loctight on the threads. 5mm spacer helps with a lil more angle for drifting or tighter turn radius. I have all of battle versions parts on my car. Nothing but the best quality from battle version.
http://m.youtube.com/index?desktop_u...?v=Xdcw0x_DZlY
http://m.youtube.com/index?desktop_u...?v=Xdcw0x_DZlY
07-19-12, 08:49 AM
#6
The easy way we found to remove the stock inners is to use a channel lock pliers or vise grip around the large part of the joint and give it one big yank to break it loose. You will notice the stock lock washer will break if you give it one good turn. Then its much easier to spin off.
For the lock washers, we don't use them when we do the install because the loads on the tie rods are in push and pull. There should be no twisting loads that would cause them to come loose. If you do have some loctight it does help but not mandatory.
The 5mm spacers go on the threads of the inner tie rods before you install them. 5mm spacers may not seem like much but you will notice a steering angle increase. Not as much as you may need to be a pro drifter, which is why moding the spindles is still important if you are planning on drifting often.
For the outer tie rods, there's 2 main things to talk about. The first one and most noticeable is the cotter pin. The cotter pin hole for some reason is set too high, so we include a couple 12mm washers that need to be placed under the nut in order for the pin to sit correctly. (we will take a pic of this soon)
Secondly is that the kit comes with additional spacers for the tie rod high. Changing the height of the tie rod will affect bumpsteer. We have tried different heights but from a drivers perspective, I did not feel a change by changing the height and would suggest running the medium size spacers on the top and bottom. (we will take a pic of this soon too)
For the lock washers, we don't use them when we do the install because the loads on the tie rods are in push and pull. There should be no twisting loads that would cause them to come loose. If you do have some loctight it does help but not mandatory.
The 5mm spacers go on the threads of the inner tie rods before you install them. 5mm spacers may not seem like much but you will notice a steering angle increase. Not as much as you may need to be a pro drifter, which is why moding the spindles is still important if you are planning on drifting often.
For the outer tie rods, there's 2 main things to talk about. The first one and most noticeable is the cotter pin. The cotter pin hole for some reason is set too high, so we include a couple 12mm washers that need to be placed under the nut in order for the pin to sit correctly. (we will take a pic of this soon)
Secondly is that the kit comes with additional spacers for the tie rod high. Changing the height of the tie rod will affect bumpsteer. We have tried different heights but from a drivers perspective, I did not feel a change by changing the height and would suggest running the medium size spacers on the top and bottom. (we will take a pic of this soon too)
07-19-12, 11:03 AM
#7
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 1,072
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
saw these a couple days ago on the site. I need some of this in my life. are the inner tie rod's threading the same length as stock? (the portion that goes into the rack)
Trending Topics
07-22-12, 01:52 AM
#8
monkey wrench works well on taking off the inner tie rods. since the SC rack in mounted in the front of the car, it gives you more room to remove them.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...well-alot.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...well-alot.html
08-04-12, 06:45 PM
#11
Just go for it! Battle version has been trailed and tested and Alex is regularly on this forum so yeah. Also it sure hell beats pricing and waiting than getting super now! and Yanack stuff from Japan. I sure wish I went bv. I will for traction links and sub frame spacers!
08-10-12, 10:18 AM
#15
I still need to bug Alex about the spacers he provided and how he used them, I am still waiting for wheel bearings to be pressed in along with my control arms back from IMI. I will try to get a drive in before August is over and thorough review. More pictures and details this evening, I still need to torque my upper control arms but wondering if having no LCA in the rear would make a difference? We are supposed to torque CA down with load but its hard to reach the rear uppers with wheels on(jack stand on hub instead), I dont have the front hubs either figured i would wait for them before torquing fronts...