Originally Posted by StarkoS14

I picked up the moog parts yesterday and they are wayyy more beefy than oem. The guy at advance said they are redesigned to be a problem solver, so they should be better than oem.. Well, im a believer, Ill throw some pics up later today.

Originally Posted by StarkoS14

So, I cant be the only one who goes though these quicker than gas... I've been blowing out the bushings of the inner tie-rods every 6 months and it finally killed my rack in March. I ordered a rack assembly from pep boys because it was over $200 cheaper than everywhere else. Well, the parts are such garbage, the tie-rods didnt even last me 2 months! I put on the FIGS RCA's and bump-steer correcting outer tie-rods last fall to help with the stress on the joints. Needless to say, the FIGS parts are still freakin mint and all my other ball joints are dead. I know the roads suck, but this is getting super ridiculous. I replaced my lower ball joints about a year and half ago, Im pretty sure they are beat now too. I replaced my coilovers last fall, installed TRD caster arm bushings, and even raised my car to help stop blowing these out. I pretty much give up and Im very hesitant to drop $500 on nagisa auto parts. Any input or suggestions would be awesome. Thanks guys, I just have nowhere else to turn to at this point.

Originally Posted by k7q

how did the inner tie rods kill the rack? i personally thing OEM would be better then moog. but only time can tell. try greasing up the inner with more grease.

Originally Posted by StarkoS14

trust me, this is not my issue. I triple checked all my bolts, and they're all fine. I was praying that this was my issue.. then after my 2 inner tie rods went, pretty sure my lower ball joint did too, and probably both.... now when I turn the wheel, I get 2-3 clunks within a second.

[gslex719 Im having the same problem and my toe keeps goin wack on me.i keep replacing parts on the suspension I did my lower ball joints twice and now need inner and outer tie rods.but im set up on d2 air ride. ]

Try my setup, Figs outer tie rods with the bumpsteer spacers. You can feel less stress on the steering like its night and day difference. Im also going back with moog inner tie-rods, from what I hear, they're the best for the money. plus they lasted me the longest before adding the figs outers... i think drifting is my main problem here.. Plus, my front wheels are bent from these ****ty roads, NOT STOKED

Originally Posted by StarkoS14

I put on the FIGS RCA's and bump-steer correcting outer tie-rods last fall to help with the stress on the joints..

Originally Posted by eskaeone

Back from the DEADDDDDD..
So, StarkoS14 you have LS400 Calipers and FIGs tire rod ends and have no fitment/clearance issues correct???

Originally Posted by TI II

So RCA's (front / rear) will reduce stress on caster arms, tie rods, LBJ, ect?

Originally Posted by StarkoS14

correct. only because of the FIGS front RCAs too. I HAVE to run them to keep the ls400 calipers without modifying something, or shaving the caliper. Its a nice and easy bolt on affair.

Originally Posted by StarkoS14

i used to run tanabe sustec pros, now Im running BC's

Originally Posted by eskaeone

Damn, I'm guessing the Tanabe's drop is more than two inches, RCA's dont work with my TEIN CS's.

wondering if I could use the FIG's tie rods with out the RCA's. trying to get rid of this freakin' bump steer..

Would you mind taking a pic of your tie rod set up and posting it on here?