tre2k

I think I might have screwed myself.

I bought: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11050...AQ:MOTORS:1123 for my 96 SC300.

I did: then got in my car and tried to move. No luck. Long story short, it fits a 99 and up SC300 and a few other Lexus cars but not mine. The caliper is too small for the rotor, so it seizes it. I'm not even sure how I got it on, now that I've taken it off and looked at some things.

Now I've already paid for this item and used it. My question is, are there any other (rear) Lexus calipers that are larger than the 92-98 SC 300, but will still bolt right on? I'm just looking to patch up my mistake. I'm not really trying to get the Supra TT brake set b/c it's pretty pricey. Thanks for any assistance!

SChema

iTrader: (2)

I believe 99' was the premier year that the SC300 rear brakes were upgraded. If I remember correctly, they adopted the rear brakes from the SC400, which is the larger set. If what I said was true, then you should be able to get rear calipers and mounting brackets from any year SC400 and they should work. Worst case, you could get a set from a 99+ SC300.

I read up on the brake system on the SC's throughout the years, all I remember is along the lines of what I just posted. So I'm not 100% sure if I got everything correct. Do a bit more research just to be safe.

g4ebguy90

What a bummer . Are you doing like racing on a track or anything or just for looks? Cause with those type of brakes the less surface area you have the worse there performance will be. But they do look alot ALOT nicer though.

tre2k

^ The previous rotors had gone bad, so I wanted to replace them. I wasn't looking for anything in particular, but I think I may have noticed what you mean. So an update to this thread. About a month later of going back and forth with Brakemotive, I finally have the correct rotors for my car.





I broke a wrench in the process, used a lot of PB blast and various methods of kicking, flailing, and self reflection.

I ran into an issue in putting back together my driver side front brakes. The lower bolt on the caliper mount DOES NOT MOVE. It does not expand, or contract... it won't even turn. It was the last rotor put on too, so by that time, I was pretty tired. I almost broke a 6" C clamp trying to get it to push in (it was bending in the middle... never saw anything like it before) and I exerted a ton of pressure to get the nut to move either way... it was not moving and it looked like it was bent a JUST a little. The caliper wouldn't fit back on with it like that, so instead of the new brake pads, I put on one of the old ones to make it fit and then patched everything up.

I bled the brakes all the way around... kind of. This is where I need a little help. My cousin was helping me do the brakes. After I put on the passenger front brakes, we started bleeding them. He failed to mention that the driver front brakes weren't on, so half way into bleeding the brakes, there's brake fluid spewing everywhere. We stop, I put the driver front brakes back on, and then bleed the passenger front and then driver front. I don't see any air bubbles, but my brakes feel softer than before. I don't know if this is because a ton of air got into them when it was spraying out of the caliper or if it's because the new rotors have less surface area.

Aside from that, when I drove it around, the brakes came back smoking (I neglected to clean off the new rotors before putting the wheels back on and the driver front is only wearing the top half of the rotor (probably because I used the old pad).

But their on there.... lol.

g4ebguy90

Why did you bleed the brakes if all you did was replace the rotors and pads? Just for the heck of it?

Tabaka

iTrader: (8)

Ebay cross drilled rotors are complete trash. You would have warped the fronts in 10,000 miles anyways. The reason why they are so cheap is because they use crap for materials when making them. Pull them off ASAP and use standard brake discs.

tre2k

The idea was to introduce new brake fluid into the lines. My car's well over 200k miles on it but I didn't know how old the brake fluid in the line was. While bleeding, the old brake fluid was noticeably darker with deposits visible here and there.

I was seriously thinking of putting the fronts back on since they seem to be in pretty decent shape. I'm not sure if that's why my brakes seem softer or because I may have air in the line from the bleeding mess up.