My GS3 is veering to the right
#1
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My GS3 is veering to the right
Hi all CL members
My 2001 GS300 is pulling to right on the freeway/highway at or above 65 MPH after I relaxed and let go of the steering wheel, I say about 2 or 3 second after relaxed my grip. New tires, New struts, New Lower Ball Joint. I rotated the tires, can only do it front and back not left to right, cause of the directional tires. Aligned & Balanced the car for likes four times already. I noticed the Firestone Service Center is using a 98-00 GS specification. I think the car is never been to any accident, all tag and VIN# are still on very panel front and back, left and right . The paint look original all around and the undercarriage as well. My only two options left is to get a road forced balance or new set of Michelin tires. Any suggestion on quiet and sporty tires? Thanks you all.
My 2001 GS300 is pulling to right on the freeway/highway at or above 65 MPH after I relaxed and let go of the steering wheel, I say about 2 or 3 second after relaxed my grip. New tires, New struts, New Lower Ball Joint. I rotated the tires, can only do it front and back not left to right, cause of the directional tires. Aligned & Balanced the car for likes four times already. I noticed the Firestone Service Center is using a 98-00 GS specification. I think the car is never been to any accident, all tag and VIN# are still on very panel front and back, left and right . The paint look original all around and the undercarriage as well. My only two options left is to get a road forced balance or new set of Michelin tires. Any suggestion on quiet and sporty tires? Thanks you all.
Last edited by GS714; 02-25-12 at 08:44 PM. Reason: attach picture
#3
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Are you lowered? and are your caster arms, rack bushings, and inner/outer tie rods original still?
You can put a car on an alignment rack and pull the numbers in good, but if your steering rack is sloppy the tie rods worn or if any thing else is wore it can make the car drive not perfect although the numbers would suggest that is should.
Alignment specs only mean so much and are not definitive to how the car will drive.
For example even with wore parts you could toe in the front a ton and the car will drive straight as an arrow with no hands on the wheel, but you'll eat tires like crazy.
You can put a car on an alignment rack and pull the numbers in good, but if your steering rack is sloppy the tie rods worn or if any thing else is wore it can make the car drive not perfect although the numbers would suggest that is should.
Alignment specs only mean so much and are not definitive to how the car will drive.
For example even with wore parts you could toe in the front a ton and the car will drive straight as an arrow with no hands on the wheel, but you'll eat tires like crazy.
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Are you lowered? and are your caster arms, rack bushings, and inner/outer tie rods original still?
You can put a car on an alignment rack and pull the numbers in good, but if your steering rack is sloppy the tie rods worn or if any thing else is wore it can make the car drive not perfect although the numbers would suggest that is should.
Alignment specs only mean so much and are not definitive to how the car will drive.
For example even with wore parts you could toe in the front a ton and the car will drive straight as an arrow with no hands on the wheel, but you'll eat tires like crazy.
You can put a car on an alignment rack and pull the numbers in good, but if your steering rack is sloppy the tie rods worn or if any thing else is wore it can make the car drive not perfect although the numbers would suggest that is should.
Alignment specs only mean so much and are not definitive to how the car will drive.
For example even with wore parts you could toe in the front a ton and the car will drive straight as an arrow with no hands on the wheel, but you'll eat tires like crazy.
#5
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I would inspect your caster bushing cause they are easy to see. Outer tie rods are cheap and after 11 years they are surely gonna have some wear. The inner tie rods are bit more involved to change but not to bad, if you disconnect the tie rod from the spindle, and lift it up it should stay up if the inners rods are still tight, if they drop when you left go or you can feel any slop in it then they should be replaced.
Look at your rack under the car while someone turns the wheels back and forth and see how much your steering rack moves where it mounts to the frame, the bushings that hold it on are notorious for wear and allows the rack to move on the frame.
Other issue is Firestone typically sucks. Find a local specialty alignment shop that does nothing but suspension and alignments that will work with you.
Look at your rack under the car while someone turns the wheels back and forth and see how much your steering rack moves where it mounts to the frame, the bushings that hold it on are notorious for wear and allows the rack to move on the frame.
Other issue is Firestone typically sucks. Find a local specialty alignment shop that does nothing but suspension and alignments that will work with you.
#6
Swap tires left to right side. If the pull swaps directions, you've found your culprit. Realize they're directional, but should give you an idea in the dry. Let you see if there is a severe conicity issue w/ one of the tires.
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I will try this tomorrow.
I did thought about it. Instead of spending $$$ or even $$$$, why not swap left to right and it only going to cost me like $40-$50. Man that is almost two cases of (24) Heineken. No drinking this coming weekend
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#8
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It's finally made itself more audiable
Just an update folks. Lately I thought it was the bushing making the squeaking noise coming from the front right corner. As of today, the right front strut is squeaking every time I step on the gas or turn the steering wheel. And I rock the car up and down while parked. the clunking and squeaking is coming from the strut. I can feel the clicking noise if I just rest my figures on the strut tight down screw. The strut is about three months old and bought from KYB outlet or JustSuspension.com.
My car is veering to the right could be the cause of a failed strut?
My car is veering to the right could be the cause of a failed strut?
#9
It could, a failed strut will allow more suspension travel than normal and as a suspension extends or compresses the alignment changes some. And one side doing it and not the other will cause a camber change, and it will pull to the side with most camber (should I really say push to the side of most).
Think of it this way, if both front tires are leaning left, it will push left. So if one tire is straight and one is starting to compress and has some camber gain (a good suspension will camber gain as it compresses), then it will change the alignment and pull to one side.
Think of it this way, if both front tires are leaning left, it will push left. So if one tire is straight and one is starting to compress and has some camber gain (a good suspension will camber gain as it compresses), then it will change the alignment and pull to one side.
Just an update folks. Lately I thought it was the bushing making the squeaking noise coming from the front right corner. As of today, the right front strut is squeaking every time I step on the gas or turn the steering wheel. And I rock the car up and down while parked. the clunking and squeaking is coming from the strut. I can feel the clicking noise if I just rest my figures on the strut tight down screw. The strut is about three months old and bought from KYB outlet or JustSuspension.com.
My car is veering to the right could be the cause of a failed strut?
My car is veering to the right could be the cause of a failed strut?
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