Drifters chime in. (hydro handbrake + ABS delete)
01-25-12, 07:08 PM
#1
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Drifters chime in. (hydro handbrake + ABS delete)
Hey guys, just wanted to hear some FACTS on hydro e-brake installation and ABS deletion.
I was planning on running the CNC staging brake as my hydraulic handbrake. I called the company today and he was telling me that you have to delete your ABS to use it.
I've done lots of research on ABS deletion today and it seems like everyone is really against it. This is making not want to run one, because I keep hearing about how dangerous it is etc...
I want to start this thread for opinions and facts ONLY from those who have deleted their ABS or have installed a Hydro hand brake in their SC. This should be helpful to me as well as others looking to do the same.
basically from what I've gathered...
The stock E-brake is not powerful enough, so it's not a good option.
Running dual rear calipers is the best bet and would allow you to keep your ABS, but would be extremely expensive and you would need lots of fab work done. custom brackets etc..
Using the Hydro Ebrake without dual calipers and just tieing it into your system would work, but you would have to delete your ABS, which is apparently very dangerous on a street car.
If anyone has experience with any of this, please chime in with how you're running your setup, if you like it, or what you would have done differently. Thanks!
I was planning on running the CNC staging brake as my hydraulic handbrake. I called the company today and he was telling me that you have to delete your ABS to use it.
I've done lots of research on ABS deletion today and it seems like everyone is really against it. This is making not want to run one, because I keep hearing about how dangerous it is etc...
I want to start this thread for opinions and facts ONLY from those who have deleted their ABS or have installed a Hydro hand brake in their SC. This should be helpful to me as well as others looking to do the same.
basically from what I've gathered...
The stock E-brake is not powerful enough, so it's not a good option.
Running dual rear calipers is the best bet and would allow you to keep your ABS, but would be extremely expensive and you would need lots of fab work done. custom brackets etc..
Using the Hydro Ebrake without dual calipers and just tieing it into your system would work, but you would have to delete your ABS, which is apparently very dangerous on a street car.
If anyone has experience with any of this, please chime in with how you're running your setup, if you like it, or what you would have done differently. Thanks!
01-25-12, 08:18 PM
#2
There is an interesting thread with some good links here: http://my350z.com/forum/drift/524847...e-writeup.html
Have not done it. Do not qualify to opine on this issue.
Have not done it. Do not qualify to opine on this issue.
01-26-12, 09:14 AM
#6
no then you have no rear brakes.
i suggest another rear caliper. inline is weak and requires booster pressure to apply the brakes, or more fluid from the front.
if you run a separate master to the calipers, you will push fluid back through the lines, applying fluid to the other brakes.
the correct way is to make another master and seperate ebrake pads... or just stick with the parking brake, get new cables and shoes, and to adjust it.
the first is the common piggy backing way. the second is the better way, which puts the e brake ones on their own circuit
i suggest another rear caliper. inline is weak and requires booster pressure to apply the brakes, or more fluid from the front.
if you run a separate master to the calipers, you will push fluid back through the lines, applying fluid to the other brakes.
the correct way is to make another master and seperate ebrake pads... or just stick with the parking brake, get new cables and shoes, and to adjust it.
the first is the common piggy backing way. the second is the better way, which puts the e brake ones on their own circuit
Last edited by speed6; 01-26-12 at 09:18 AM.
01-26-12, 12:02 PM
#7
I have deleted my ABS and run a hydro inlne, It works but its still not the best. I upgraded to TT rear brakes and hawk pads and ill try it again next time i drive the car.
As far as dual calipers good luck. I brought my rear calipers to my machinist and he did not feel very comfortable coming up with a bracket for the knuckle due to space limitation.
As far as dual calipers good luck. I brought my rear calipers to my machinist and he did not feel very comfortable coming up with a bracket for the knuckle due to space limitation.
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01-26-12, 12:07 PM
#8
ok well what calipers would you suggest? they would have to be a certain size in order to work with the diameter of my rear rotor correct? i can fab up my own brackets. ill prolly just pick a good set of calipers out of a junkyard. i am picking up a GSP vertical ebrake local for 40$ i dont think this needs to be an expensive mod, 240 guys pride them selves on buget set ups that are drift proven. i had planned to run my own hard lines from the hyd ebrake to the fender well then the stock flex lines from my caliper of choice.
01-26-12, 12:10 PM
#9
I have deleted my ABS and run a hydro inlne, It works but its still not the best. I upgraded to TT rear brakes and hawk pads and ill try it again next time i drive the car.
As far as dual calipers good luck. I brought my rear calipers to my machinist and he did not feel very comfortable coming up with a bracket for the knuckle due to space limitation.
As far as dual calipers good luck. I brought my rear calipers to my machinist and he did not feel very comfortable coming up with a bracket for the knuckle due to space limitation.
01-27-12, 04:42 AM
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I was the one to actually make that thread on my350Z. There is nothing wrong with deleting ABS IF done correctly. It is obviously inherently dangerous if you mess up. As far as the safety involved in simply not having a system to modulate your brakes for you..... if you don't know how to drive then yes it can be dangerous. For drifting ABS is more of a hinderance than anything, since there are times when locking your brakes or modulating them is useful.
On my Z I ran my hydro in line (piggy back??) with no issues. The bleeding process needs to be done in a very specific way, but if everything is done correctly you should have no issues. I actually didn't bleed the actual hydro cylinder correctly the first time, so I had to rebleed my rear brakes while modulating the hand brake. After that I could lock my rear at 60mph without pressing in the clutch. One thing people screw up is using "race" pads for their ebrake. Higher performance pads are made to perform best at higher temperatures and to resist fade at those higher temperatures with more frequent use. In drifting these temperatures will almost never be reached (all we're doing is touching the brakes at very brief moments or using them to completely lock the rotor which creates much less heat than constantly diving into corners from 120mph on a road course). Your best option is to run to your local parts store and buy the crappiest pads you can find. Pads made for the average consumer are made to have maximum bite at cold temps, perfect for ebraking while drifting. Having your rotors resurfaced or buying new ones when the pads (shoes for anyone with factory ebrake mechanisms) are replaced is also a major help.
Coming from the Z33 to the SC is pretty funny though. People do hydro's on 350z's because it's just not possible to achieve the amount of leverage and friction needed with the stock hand brake. People extend their handles, modify their brake shoes/mechanisms, and tighten their cables. Even with all of that it barely works and they usually end up snapping their cables. I see a lot of people on here talking about how the stock e-brake sucks and doesn't work blah blah. Maybe my SC300 is magical or something but the ebrake on it works just as good as my hydro in my Z. It's almost scary how well it works. I suggest fixing your factory hand brakes before chopping up your interior to install a hydro.
On my Z I ran my hydro in line (piggy back??) with no issues. The bleeding process needs to be done in a very specific way, but if everything is done correctly you should have no issues. I actually didn't bleed the actual hydro cylinder correctly the first time, so I had to rebleed my rear brakes while modulating the hand brake. After that I could lock my rear at 60mph without pressing in the clutch. One thing people screw up is using "race" pads for their ebrake. Higher performance pads are made to perform best at higher temperatures and to resist fade at those higher temperatures with more frequent use. In drifting these temperatures will almost never be reached (all we're doing is touching the brakes at very brief moments or using them to completely lock the rotor which creates much less heat than constantly diving into corners from 120mph on a road course). Your best option is to run to your local parts store and buy the crappiest pads you can find. Pads made for the average consumer are made to have maximum bite at cold temps, perfect for ebraking while drifting. Having your rotors resurfaced or buying new ones when the pads (shoes for anyone with factory ebrake mechanisms) are replaced is also a major help.
Coming from the Z33 to the SC is pretty funny though. People do hydro's on 350z's because it's just not possible to achieve the amount of leverage and friction needed with the stock hand brake. People extend their handles, modify their brake shoes/mechanisms, and tighten their cables. Even with all of that it barely works and they usually end up snapping their cables. I see a lot of people on here talking about how the stock e-brake sucks and doesn't work blah blah. Maybe my SC300 is magical or something but the ebrake on it works just as good as my hydro in my Z. It's almost scary how well it works. I suggest fixing your factory hand brakes before chopping up your interior to install a hydro.
11-17-15, 05:55 AM
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i want to do this this weekend but id like to know if someone here knows what length of steel braided line i should buy between the two master cylinders and between the hydro master cylinder and the proposed tee in the rear
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