DIY - Rear Axle Carrier (Knuckle) Bushing Replacement
#302
Those are the ones I ordered. They came in, in a reasonable amount of time. Did the install this past weekend. My old ones seemed solid...until I took the rubber boots off. As soon as the boots came off they were very loose and had way more play than the new ones. Everything went pretty smooth and so far so good.
#303
You guys make this look easy. I replaced one side carrier and toe link, then tried to replace other side and well, I couldn't get the other side to line up and I also destroyed the camber bolt
#305
#307
The Maker
iTrader: (11)
I believe it means made in Dubai to German standards. SMS appears to be a UAE company.
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Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
#308
#310
I have 100% confirmed my carrier bushings have play, but I have yet to hear a squeak from them.
#312
The Maker
iTrader: (11)
Yessir. we should be good on bearing stock for a bit. I am fine tolerancing the inner Diameter on the lathe now to prevent any tight fit conditions. And just so everyone knows if they get this bearing from us the bearing should actually be loose between the snap rings prior to pressing in. Once pressed it will be tight and not have any slop.
__________________
Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
#313
FIGS I will keep you in mind for these depending on how my stock-style replacements turn out. Will be installing your poly bushings for the track-link arms you sent me a few weeks ago.
I do have one question about the installation of the poly track-link bushings. When I was under there today with the rotor/caliper removed, I noticed the that dust shield was in the way and I couldn't press out the old bushings with the shields in the way. I didn't see any straight forward way to remove those shields. Any tips?
Oh and lastly, I assume that the sleeve needs to be removed with the track-link bushing, which would mean that drilling those bushings out is not the best option since I would still have to get the sleeve out somehow?
EDIT 5/27/13:
I finally got around to installing these replacement carrier/knuckle bushings from Ireland (ebay). Both the passenger side and the driver side OEM bushings had noticeable play.
Regarding the install, it was very straight forward in my mind, but the reality was that it was a bit of a challenge. One side went on well using the 2 socket + carrier/shoulder bolt trick. First, the old bushings popped right out without too much fuss. When it came to the install, I found that I was struggling to get the bushings to go in square. The bushings had this unexpected tendency to tilt and go in slightly crooked as you cranked the nut of the carrier/shoulder bolt. I got around this by first hammering the socket on gently to get the bushings started in the bore. After that I was able to pull them in.
The passenger side was smooth. I would estimate that it required about 60-70ft-lbs of torque to get them to go. However, the driver side was a different story. The bushing didn't slide in until I got into the 110-120ft-lbs range which was a bit disconcerting since I was worried that I would break the bolt or damage the bushing. At this torque, the socket/carrier bolt had a tendency to spin but I eventually got it in. I used liquid wrench/WD40 too but if I were doing it again, I would also put the bushings in the freezer for a bit and maybe even apply a little heat to the knuckle bore. Depending on the tolerances, it can be a tight fit!
Thinking back to the job, it seems like the tolerance between the knuckle bore and the bushing OD can be the difference between a smooth 2-3hr job and an all day headache.
In terms of driving impressions, I definitely need an alignment now since the toe was affected during the install. It has to do with the depth of the bushings. Although I could eye it and get it really close to where it was before, I couldn't get it 100% exact. Next, the steering on the highway is much more responsive than it was previously, which is nice
Now for the bad news... I was 99.9% convinced that my low speed rattle was due to bad carrier/knuckle bushings. Although the stock ones where shot, they were not the source of the rattle probem. Back to the drawing board. Any ideas guys? I'm back to thinking it could be a bad shock or some other bushing in the rear suspension.
I do have one question about the installation of the poly track-link bushings. When I was under there today with the rotor/caliper removed, I noticed the that dust shield was in the way and I couldn't press out the old bushings with the shields in the way. I didn't see any straight forward way to remove those shields. Any tips?
Oh and lastly, I assume that the sleeve needs to be removed with the track-link bushing, which would mean that drilling those bushings out is not the best option since I would still have to get the sleeve out somehow?
EDIT 5/27/13:
I finally got around to installing these replacement carrier/knuckle bushings from Ireland (ebay). Both the passenger side and the driver side OEM bushings had noticeable play.
Regarding the install, it was very straight forward in my mind, but the reality was that it was a bit of a challenge. One side went on well using the 2 socket + carrier/shoulder bolt trick. First, the old bushings popped right out without too much fuss. When it came to the install, I found that I was struggling to get the bushings to go in square. The bushings had this unexpected tendency to tilt and go in slightly crooked as you cranked the nut of the carrier/shoulder bolt. I got around this by first hammering the socket on gently to get the bushings started in the bore. After that I was able to pull them in.
The passenger side was smooth. I would estimate that it required about 60-70ft-lbs of torque to get them to go. However, the driver side was a different story. The bushing didn't slide in until I got into the 110-120ft-lbs range which was a bit disconcerting since I was worried that I would break the bolt or damage the bushing. At this torque, the socket/carrier bolt had a tendency to spin but I eventually got it in. I used liquid wrench/WD40 too but if I were doing it again, I would also put the bushings in the freezer for a bit and maybe even apply a little heat to the knuckle bore. Depending on the tolerances, it can be a tight fit!
Thinking back to the job, it seems like the tolerance between the knuckle bore and the bushing OD can be the difference between a smooth 2-3hr job and an all day headache.
In terms of driving impressions, I definitely need an alignment now since the toe was affected during the install. It has to do with the depth of the bushings. Although I could eye it and get it really close to where it was before, I couldn't get it 100% exact. Next, the steering on the highway is much more responsive than it was previously, which is nice
Now for the bad news... I was 99.9% convinced that my low speed rattle was due to bad carrier/knuckle bushings. Although the stock ones where shot, they were not the source of the rattle probem. Back to the drawing board. Any ideas guys? I'm back to thinking it could be a bad shock or some other bushing in the rear suspension.
Last edited by BayAreaLex; 05-27-13 at 03:10 PM.
#314
The Maker
iTrader: (11)
FIGS I will keep you in mind for these depending on how my stock-style replacements turn out. Will be installing your poly bushings for the track-link arms you sent me a few weeks ago.
I do have one question about the installation of the poly track-link bushings. When I was under there today with the rotor/caliper removed, I noticed the that dust shield was in the way and I couldn't press out the old bushings with the shields in the way. I didn't see any straight forward way to remove those shields. Any tips?
Oh and lastly, I assume that the sleeve needs to be removed with the track-link bushing, which would mean that drilling those bushings out is not the best option since I would still have to get the sleeve out somehow?
I do have one question about the installation of the poly track-link bushings. When I was under there today with the rotor/caliper removed, I noticed the that dust shield was in the way and I couldn't press out the old bushings with the shields in the way. I didn't see any straight forward way to remove those shields. Any tips?
Oh and lastly, I assume that the sleeve needs to be removed with the track-link bushing, which would mean that drilling those bushings out is not the best option since I would still have to get the sleeve out somehow?
__________________
Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
#315
Thanks Figs! That 1-2mm of lip made me instantly think, "this is not going to be easy" lol.
I wonder if anyone out there has a part number for a tool that is sure to work. Not sure I have the free time for experimentation.
Thanks.
I wonder if anyone out there has a part number for a tool that is sure to work. Not sure I have the free time for experimentation.
Thanks.