G4lexboi

Ya I think I need this fix also

lexybaby77

I bought from the ebay UK seller too, thanks for the info. I got it after 2 weeks, It's not what I was expecting as the picture on the listing looks similar to the original and what I got is different. Fits perfectly but just looks different. Attached is the picture. I just installed it over the weekend. It was really easy to install if you have the right tools. I would recommend using Upper control arm bushing press tool. So far no more squeaks....

G4lexboi

You guys make this look easy. I replaced one side carrier and toe link, then tried to replace other side and well, I couldn't get the other side to line up and I also destroyed the camber bolt

G4lexboi

The other pics didn't load

lexybaby77

Did you get this part from Ebay?

BayAreaLex

Interesting...

It looks like those SMS bearings are from Germany.

The ones I bought from the ebay seller in Ireland are from Dubai.

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

I believe it means made in Dubai to German standards. SMS appears to be a UAE company.

BayAreaLex

Shame on me for not reading the whole "Sales & Marketing" phrase. It looks like you may be right.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

FINALLY got mine installed.......sounds 200% better. no more squeak. heaven

BayAreaLex

Yours was a squeak too, eh? Not more of a pebbles in a can sort of a noise when encountering small bumps at low speed?

I have 100% confirmed my carrier bushings have play, but I have yet to hear a squeak from them.

neegroy

iTrader: (19)

FIGS do you guys still have it in stock?

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

Yessir. we should be good on bearing stock for a bit. I am fine tolerancing the inner Diameter on the lathe now to prevent any tight fit conditions. And just so everyone knows if they get this bearing from us the bearing should actually be loose between the snap rings prior to pressing in. Once pressed it will be tight and not have any slop.

BayAreaLex

FIGS I will keep you in mind for these depending on how my stock-style replacements turn out. Will be installing your poly bushings for the track-link arms you sent me a few weeks ago.

I do have one question about the installation of the poly track-link bushings. When I was under there today with the rotor/caliper removed, I noticed the that dust shield was in the way and I couldn't press out the old bushings with the shields in the way. I didn't see any straight forward way to remove those shields. Any tips?

Oh and lastly, I assume that the sleeve needs to be removed with the track-link bushing, which would mean that drilling those bushings out is not the best option since I would still have to get the sleeve out somehow?


EDIT 5/27/13:

I finally got around to installing these replacement carrier/knuckle bushings from Ireland (ebay). Both the passenger side and the driver side OEM bushings had noticeable play.

Regarding the install, it was very straight forward in my mind, but the reality was that it was a bit of a challenge. One side went on well using the 2 socket + carrier/shoulder bolt trick. First, the old bushings popped right out without too much fuss. When it came to the install, I found that I was struggling to get the bushings to go in square. The bushings had this unexpected tendency to tilt and go in slightly crooked as you cranked the nut of the carrier/shoulder bolt. I got around this by first hammering the socket on gently to get the bushings started in the bore. After that I was able to pull them in.

The passenger side was smooth. I would estimate that it required about 60-70ft-lbs of torque to get them to go. However, the driver side was a different story. The bushing didn't slide in until I got into the 110-120ft-lbs range which was a bit disconcerting since I was worried that I would break the bolt or damage the bushing. At this torque, the socket/carrier bolt had a tendency to spin but I eventually got it in. I used liquid wrench/WD40 too but if I were doing it again, I would also put the bushings in the freezer for a bit and maybe even apply a little heat to the knuckle bore. Depending on the tolerances, it can be a tight fit!

Thinking back to the job, it seems like the tolerance between the knuckle bore and the bushing OD can be the difference between a smooth 2-3hr job and an all day headache.

In terms of driving impressions, I definitely need an alignment now since the toe was affected during the install. It has to do with the depth of the bushings. Although I could eye it and get it really close to where it was before, I couldn't get it 100% exact. Next, the steering on the highway is much more responsive than it was previously, which is nice

Now for the bad news... I was 99.9% convinced that my low speed rattle was due to bad carrier/knuckle bushings. Although the stock ones where shot, they were not the source of the rattle probem. Back to the drawing board. Any ideas guys? I'm back to thinking it could be a bad shock or some other bushing in the rear suspension.

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

This is why a bearing service tool is required. In this pic I am putting the new one in but you need the shallow fork-like backer to push the bushing out in a single shot. Its not trivial as there is only 2mm or so of a lip to catch onto.

BayAreaLex

Thanks Figs! That 1-2mm of lip made me instantly think, "this is not going to be easy" lol.

I wonder if anyone out there has a part number for a tool that is sure to work. Not sure I have the free time for experimentation.

Thanks.