DIY - Rear Axle Carrier (Knuckle) Bushing Replacement
10-09-11, 08:20 PM
#61
Sounds good. You might want to start with the driver's side if you are right handed, I found it easier to work on that side for a rightie - you end up holding the clamp with your left hand and torquing with your right, plus the clamp would want to rotate away from the axle boot, all good things. Then once you get the hang of it, you can do the passenger side. Just a thought.
And not to insult your intelligence, but I have no idea of your skill level, so let me ask again - you do have a receiver tube on the back side of the clamp big enough to clear the OUTER diameter of the bushing, right?
And not to insult your intelligence, but I have no idea of your skill level, so let me ask again - you do have a receiver tube on the back side of the clamp big enough to clear the OUTER diameter of the bushing, right?
Once I got it out you could feel how easily the inner sleeve moved around and hear all of the noise it made.So what happened yesterday. The receiving tube I used was big engough, but I found this morning I had to flip the direction of the tool to get the bushing out. I had the tube on the front side of the knuckle yesterday. The space on that side is limited. It was causing the receiving tube to push over and misalign. So the bushing would not move because it was jamming up against the receiving tube. Realized that this morning.Flipped the tool (tube towards rear of car) and the bushing came out a lot easier. 90 ft-lbs not needed.
The real problem that took forever to resolve was getting a new bushing in without damaging. Damn thing wouldn't go in. It would constantly misalign and cause the bushing to dig into the knuckle instead of slide through. I finally resorted to filing the bushing and the knuckle even though no rust was present. Didn't take off a lot. The real problem was the length of the sleeve that came with the kit and sockets I used. I needed a 36 mm socket as a pusher (I bought a 30 mm but it started to rip the boot) and a 22 mm to torque the clamp. The sockets and sleeves were so long that I couldn't use them all at same time to put the new bushing in. Ended up using the 36 mm by itself with no receiving tube to initially get it end. I kinda thrashed the 1st bushing so I used that one as a guinea pig. Once I got that one in, the undamaged one slid right in. Also, when putting a new bushing in, DO NOT DIRECT THE FORCE THROUGH THE INNER SLEEVE! That's what started the demise of the 1st bushing. I got frustrated and tried to do that. When it compressed the boot, it caused a slight rip. You must use a socket as a pusher so you can push against the outer sleeve of the bushing.
Last edited by tiger4life; 10-09-11 at 08:25 PM.
10-09-11, 09:20 PM
#62
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Thread Starter
Congrats on getting it done!
Yup, that's what I was getting at yesterday with my questions, I suspected that the bushing might be getting clamped by the receiving tube.
That's more like it 
.
That's really odd, mine went in very easily. Did you put any oil on the bushing or in the knuckle? That definitely helps.
I think I had a similar problem, and solved it the same way - started the bushing without a receiving tube, and then added one when the bushing was about to pop out the back side.
Absolutely. I pushed the old one out by pushing on the inner sleeve, but you don't want to do that to a new one. That's like installing a bearing in a hub by pressing on the inner race, big no-no. You definitely want to push on the outer sleeve, hence the big socket.
Again, glad you got it done and the noise is gone!
The space on that side is limited. It was causing the receiving tube to push over and misalign. So the bushing would not move because it was jamming up against the receiving tube.
Flipped the tool (tube towards rear of car) and the bushing came out a lot easier. 90 ft-lbs not needed.
.
The real problem that took forever to resolve was getting a new bushing in without damaging. Damn thing wouldn't go in. It would constantly misalign and cause the bushing to dig into the knuckle instead of slide through.
The sockets and sleeves were so long that I couldn't use them all at same time to put the new bushing in. Ended up using the 36 mm by itself with no receiving tube to initially get it end.
Also, when putting a new bushing in, DO NOT DIRECT THE FORCE THROUGH THE INNER SLEEVE!
Again, glad you got it done and the noise is gone!
Help on where to find rear bushing
10-31-11, 11:48 AM
#66
there are different ones ALL my products are PRECISION versions though i think, go check his website for the different parts
http://www.shopfigs.com/v1/
im STILL waiting on these bushings to get back in stock when i finally went to order them, they were gone but its been a few weeks and i think the guy told me 3 weeks to get back in stock
11-04-11, 09:38 AM
#71
so i sent him a email a week or so ago as when i finally had decided to order them they were out of stock....sent him a email on the 2nd and got one from him last night. bushings STILL out of stock he said he would keep me posted on them so i guess i am gonna ****** up a pair next time.
tiger, if i order 3 do you want the 3rd one since you fubared one?
tiger, if i order 3 do you want the 3rd one since you fubared one?
11-04-11, 09:54 AM
#72
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Thread Starter
11-10-11, 01:29 PM
#73
i didnt wanna miss my window again. when i get off work and can actually get on ebay and order mine i will
