lyonkster

I know . No install issues, love the clunk-free driving. I didn't even realize how much it bothered me until I fixed it, now it's (almost) like driving a new car.

Good questions Brian, I probably should have expanded on this in my original post. I used the OTC kit because I am in a Car Club that allows us to buy whatever tools we want and get reimbursed for them (fun ). If it were my money, I would NOT recommend the OTC balljoint kit. First, you can get the C-clamp and a few tubes in smaller kits from Harbor Freight, or Powerbuilt/Alltrade kits from Amazon. Second, the balljoint kit is really not designed for doing bushings, most of the tubes are for balljoints and won't work with bushings. That is why I had to use a socket in the end . So again, I would pick up a cheaper kit with the C-clamp and fewer pusher tubes, or try the gear puller that someone has recommended.

Well, the bushings did not come out or go in THAT easily.. When I said they came out easily, I was comparing these to when I popped out the caster arm bushings, which gave my 12 ton press a bit of a workout - this was much easier in comparison. But this is still a press fit, don't get me wrong.

The old bushings were OEM, and the replacements were within 0.001" of the old, so I am not concerned about them being the wrong size.

Hmm, I had the impression that the irl ebay guy had a bunch of these, hopefully he's just slow in responding.

If you can get the mountshop to reply (and I also saw the deal with submitting paperwork to get to the price and availability page), that's probably a good alternative. You can pulse 1nz and see if he can help, he did they say he is just down the street from them. I would have gone with diamondmit's solution if the OEM-type replacements were not available. I do prefer the OEM design, i.e. a spherical bearing instead of a poly bushing, but I think that Dave's design is well thought out and should work reasonably well for most applications. I think if you are into high performance driving, the difference may become apparent, but I don't drive that way. As for safety, the bushing is captive, so even in a catastrophic failure you are looking at noise and clunks, not your wheel flying off (like in the case of a ball joint failure).

lyonkster

You are welcome, I am always happy to give back to the forum from which I learned so much!

I had some discussions with FIGS on this, and he recommended a spherical bearing that could be used, but it would need inner and outer sleeves to fit properly into the axle carrier and the suspension arm. I actually prepared and sent him a CAD picture of the sleeves that would be needed, but I think he is too busy these days to take this on. Plus I don't know if the custom-made sleeves and spherical bearings would be cost effective. But it is an option that I considered.

Yeah, that stinks . Those are for the inner part of the lower suspension arm.. I suppose you can replace them too since you already have them, but it won't help your outer bushing issue...

Sash1mi

iTrader: (18)

Ohh okay I see. Maybe we can all try to get a group of interests and try to see if FIGS can work out some sort of deal. Hopefully he replies back to you about his response and attempts.


Yeah I didn't replace those since the bushings in the lower control arm are still intact and no cracks whatsoever, this is impressive since I have 236,xxx on my car. The only concern is the bushings we are all about and caster arms.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

oh, i got a reply....this is what i got

New Website Registration
Thank you for your registration for access to the Mountshop website, as we have been unable to verify your details, your request has been declined.

GD.....thats annoying

so PM 1nz? thats his sn?

i cant tell from the crappy diagram they have where those do go, any one have some links/schematics for them?

Sash1mi

iTrader: (18)

That's exactly what I just got too!!! hahaa, full of lame.

Who is this?

It goes to the inner part of your rear lower control arm Brian. As for schematic's, I downloaded that image and just tried to zoom in the best I can and that is where it is showing. Rear Lower control arm bushing.

vwynn

iTrader: (4)

Dara,

Im sure you can prolly source out spherical bushings somewhere. e.g here:
http://www.aurorabearing.com/

an other venders. Problem would most likely be pricing especially on the small orders.

you would need to find proper dimensions along with possibly making bushings/spacers to widen bearing so it seats flush with the arm.

iono lol

lyonkster

Weird, I was able to get through the first registration step, just not the second.

Aaron was nice enough to offer to swing by The Mount Shop, but he was not sure he can actually get the bushings, if the place is wholesale only. But you can ask him - https://www.clublexus.com/forums/mem...41514-1nz.html

Those bushings are for the inner portion of the suspension arm, not the outer. Where the suspension arm attaches to the body, not where it attaches to the axle carrier (which is the one you need for this application). It's the one in this diagram http://lexus.sewellparts.com/images/...000/481184.jpg, where bolt 9010514082 goes - but you want the one where the cam bolt 4819030040 goes.

lyonkster

Yup, Aurora AIB-12 is probably the closest match, but you'll still need spacer sleeves for the OD to fit into the axle carrier, and for the ID to locate it on the suspension arm. If you have access to a machine shop, it's no biggie, but if you don't, then it's a stumbling block. Plus when you go down this path, you need to think through how to specify the dimensions for a correct press fit at the axle carrier, and a slip fit at the suspension arm sleeve. Not rocket science, but definitely something you need to get right.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

no kidding, i sent them back this

Wtf people all I want is to buy a pair of bushings for myself

The 37h125 bushings

Brian


i wanna know too i cant find him

im a visual person....pics?

Sash1mi

iTrader: (18)

lyonkster

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/mem...41514-1nz.html

lyonkster

That's the one! And the one you need is on the other end, where the slotted hole is .

Sash1mi

iTrader: (18)

Yep the main squeaking culprit is the other bushing for the other side that is pressed into the knuckle.

The one I need bad like asap!

lyonkster

Well, you probably won't like it, but there is another option I considered. You can always buy the two axle carriers for about $430 (ouch, I know), and then instead of swapping them in (which is tons of work, removing the axles, pressing bearings, etc), you can just push out the new bushings and push them into your existing axle carriers. I know, doesn't seem right, but it is an option that is cheaper and much less work than swapping in the new axle carriers .

tiger4life

iTrader: (16)

you guys should just be patient. the nz guys and the guy from ebay have already developed this. it may be hard to get a hold of them, but i think they'll be your best source. if not doing what lyonkster said would be your next best approach. $430+ tax sucks, but it is not going to be cheap to get figs or someone else to stop what they are doing and develop these things. what you desperately want to avoid is having to remove the knuckles, so i would definitely do what he said above to avoid downtime and additional parts like wheel bearings.