Adjustable Sway Bar End Links
09-18-12, 10:17 AM
#48
Reason why the battle version sway bar links are more expensive is that they use 3 piece teflon injected rod ends in a larger size (1/2 rods for the front) then what you guys have here pictured. We also use custom high limit spacers for the front and studded rod ends for the rear.
With the economy rod ends, they have play built into them. So when you are driving around you tend to hear some clunking noises. Its fine for some people "because race car" but we are sure some of you may want to have the top quality joints.
The rear subframe bushings where also brought up in this post. We are working on a video of how to install them, this is the ruff version but it pretty much explains how to do it.
http://youtu.be/zzXypxf7Kco
We will be coming out with some solid diff mounts soon. Not only for the front of the diff but also the large rear mounts in the subframe so you will be able to covert all the rear bushings to solid.
With the economy rod ends, they have play built into them. So when you are driving around you tend to hear some clunking noises. Its fine for some people "because race car" but we are sure some of you may want to have the top quality joints.
The rear subframe bushings where also brought up in this post. We are working on a video of how to install them, this is the ruff version but it pretty much explains how to do it.
http://youtu.be/zzXypxf7Kco
We will be coming out with some solid diff mounts soon. Not only for the front of the diff but also the large rear mounts in the subframe so you will be able to covert all the rear bushings to solid.
12-25-12, 02:24 PM
#49
Reason why the battle version sway bar links are more expensive is that they use 3 piece teflon injected rod ends in a larger size (1/2 rods for the front) then what you guys have here pictured. We also use custom high limit spacers for the front and studded rod ends for the rear.
With the economy rod ends, they have play built into them. So when you are driving around you tend to hear some clunking noises. Its fine for some people "because race car" but we are sure some of you may want to have the top quality joints.
The rear subframe bushings where also brought up in this post. We are working on a video of how to install them, this is the ruff version but it pretty much explains how to do it.
http://youtu.be/zzXypxf7Kco
We will be coming out with some solid diff mounts soon. Not only for the front of the diff but also the large rear mounts in the subframe so you will be able to covert all the rear bushings to solid.
With the economy rod ends, they have play built into them. So when you are driving around you tend to hear some clunking noises. Its fine for some people "because race car" but we are sure some of you may want to have the top quality joints.
The rear subframe bushings where also brought up in this post. We are working on a video of how to install them, this is the ruff version but it pretty much explains how to do it.
http://youtu.be/zzXypxf7Kco
We will be coming out with some solid diff mounts soon. Not only for the front of the diff but also the large rear mounts in the subframe so you will be able to covert all the rear bushings to solid.
what is truly the purpose of these adjustable endlinks .. are you just adjusting for it to fit or adjusting to add more tension to the bar
also on the rear adjustable traction rods , when installing are we just adjusting for fit or adjusting to put more tension
12-26-12, 09:26 AM
#50
Pole Position
12-28-12, 06:21 AM
#52
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Id imagine you would use the battle version endlinks to account for an adjusted larger turning angle for drifting.. since its a drift company. I dont think there made to up the tension on a stock car, other then have less play and less noise.
If your car is purpose built then get them. Other wise stock is fine.
If your car is purpose built then get them. Other wise stock is fine.
12-28-12, 06:56 AM
#53
Pole Position
well the point of the post was to show you your options. also the fuction of these parts is endless depending on what type of driving your doing. so i would say find out what works best for your application. some fine tuning will be needed no matter what.
12-28-12, 10:10 AM
#54
When you lower your car, the stock end links will be too long (at least in the front). So theyre shorter, plus you can add more tension to the link by making it shorter. This tension and short lever length combined will add to the bar's anti-sway effect because they make the bar tighter, so it reacts faster to body roll. This short lever arm/stiff sway bar can be uncomfortable on bumpy roads as what one wheel feels you will feel it identical on the other side. Plus, stock-type links have huge balljoints but then a thin rod connecting the two, with those adjusties they are a more solid construction.
12-29-12, 09:06 PM
#55
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Idk about all this tension mumbo jumbo since I'm kinda dumb and can't comprehend such complicated information, but I personally originally started looking into adjustable endlinks b/c I wanted my swaybar angled the same as it would have been if my car was stock height. Since the endlink mounts onto the lca which is now in a higher position due to the decrease in ride height, the swaybar gets pushed up. I'm still really not sure if this affects the functionality of the swaybar, but it was just something I wanted to pursue.
Just as a warning to those who're saying "zomg bver so 'spensive"
In the long run, it might be smarter to dish out the money for his endlinks. One of my front custom swaybar endlinks ended up snapping. (it was a male-female setup, and the male's threaded portion snapped in half)
I switched it out to a female-female setup w/ a stronger threaded rod going through which is holding up a bit better, but it sqeaks. So just be warned that using cheaper rod ends that weren't meant for this kinda application will have its consequences.
Just as a warning to those who're saying "zomg bver so 'spensive"
In the long run, it might be smarter to dish out the money for his endlinks. One of my front custom swaybar endlinks ended up snapping. (it was a male-female setup, and the male's threaded portion snapped in half)
I switched it out to a female-female setup w/ a stronger threaded rod going through which is holding up a bit better, but it sqeaks. So just be warned that using cheaper rod ends that weren't meant for this kinda application will have its consequences.
12-30-12, 09:56 AM
#56
Money always makes people feel better about things they purchase.
I've had mine on for almost a year now and they havent broken, no play or noise either.
And about the ' tension mumbo jumbo', pardon if I like to have an idea of what I'm doing to my car, and pardon for trying to share some information as well.
I've had mine on for almost a year now and they havent broken, no play or noise either.
And about the ' tension mumbo jumbo', pardon if I like to have an idea of what I'm doing to my car, and pardon for trying to share some information as well.
12-30-12, 11:37 AM
#57
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You're pardon'd on both accounts, primarily since I had no intention of attacking you or your sharing of information. I'm glad someone on this forum has a clue as to what they're doing with their car, it's just that I didn't understand it, again, since I'm pretty slow in the cranial region.
And i'll admit, my rod ends aren't working out perfectly b/c I've been cheaping out pretty hardcore on this stuff.
And i'll admit, my rod ends aren't working out perfectly b/c I've been cheaping out pretty hardcore on this stuff.
12-31-12, 10:54 AM
#59
All I wanna know is if the BattVer teflon coated endlinks clunks like all the other metal joints?? The rubber boot on my endlinks ripped when I swapped to the Daizen sway bars, and now its making a popping sound whenever I go dips and bumps on the road... I don't see any reason to go buy OEM when it's not the correct angle and it will cost me roughly $400+ for all 4.
12-31-12, 02:08 PM
#60
As long as the heim joints are lubricated there shouldnt be any noise, mine don't make any, my shock mounts sure make a raquet, but so far I check em once or twice a month for dryness.
Well I guess if you wanna go oem style route, you can use oem end links from another car, that are a shorter length.
I know the subaru baja ones are shorter, c5 corvette, even 01-05 honda civic links fit according to this one thread I saw.
Well I guess if you wanna go oem style route, you can use oem end links from another car, that are a shorter length.
I know the subaru baja ones are shorter, c5 corvette, even 01-05 honda civic links fit according to this one thread I saw.