Drilled / Slotted Rotors
04-16-11, 08:26 PM
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Drilled / Slotted Rotors
Has anyone replaced their OEM rotors on a 2011 IS250 with drilled or drilled & slotted aftermarket rotors? I've found 2010 rotors listed but I'm not sure if the 2010 and the 2011 OEM rotors are interchangeable. Any info?
04-16-11, 10:32 PM
#3
You have a 2011 and your changing rotors already? 
lol
But In my experience, stay away from drilled rotors. Unless you get high end ones, they always crack around the drilled areas eventually. I would go with slotted only rotors if your gonna go with non-blanks, unless you just like the look of drilled rotors.
lol But In my experience, stay away from drilled rotors. Unless you get high end ones, they always crack around the drilled areas eventually. I would go with slotted only rotors if your gonna go with non-blanks, unless you just like the look of drilled rotors.
06-12-11, 08:56 PM
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Yes the IS-F rotors are drilled. No they will not fit an IS350 unless you also buy the IS-F hubs (and brake calipers).
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06-13-11, 11:25 AM
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do you guys know any place to get bigger rotors for an is250 awd? any company manufacture these yet? i cant find the part number for is350 awd rotors and i want to do a brake swap to the is350 calipers
06-16-11, 08:45 AM
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drilled rotors are prone to cracking later and slotted wear your pads down more. unless you're tracking your car, just stick with the OEM blanks, they work good. IF you want to improve your braking, get stainless lines, pads or when you need them, get better tires. Here's something I found a while ago from a different forum. I found it to be informative. Hope this helps out. This was from a guy who regularly tracks his car BTW
if you want to stop faster-- get stickier tires.
if you want to stop a little bit faster-- get better pads and stickier tires
if you want to stop multiple times during a short timeframe-- buy better pads, slotted rotors, and stickier tires.
if you want to stop mutiple times in a short period of time and have consistent braking distances-- buy a BBK [or get brake ducting], higher temp tolerate brake fluid, good race pads, and stickier tires
Aftermarket brake pads are generally developed to help braking "feel better" and offers an increase to the heat capacity it can take. [not all pads are the same.. Some are made to dust less, some are made to stop better cold, some are made to be used for a long period of time where consistent brake force is required when they are up at operating temperatures]. Generally, pads will help reduce reaction time to initial stopping of the vehicle. Same goes with the with SS brake lines, as this will make the brake pedal firmer, less 'squishy.' [this reduces flex of the brake line when the brake fluid is moving inside the brake lines]. Adding the slotted rotors will give more "bite" which is the initial dip or grab feeling during stopping. Adding larger rotors gives more heat capacity to the overall system. [This will prolong the inevitable "fade" which is when you want to stop, but you can't.] Brake ducting will help direct airflow to the rotors to again, prolong the time it takes for the brake to fade. Larger calipers with multiple pistons, typically allow for more even brake pad wear and larger heat capacity. When coupled with race pads, larger rotors, brake ducting, and stickier tires, allow for the car to decelerate faster, perhaps at a much later point along the track, and allows for consistent, predictable stopping distances.
if you want to stop a little bit faster-- get better pads and stickier tires
if you want to stop multiple times during a short timeframe-- buy better pads, slotted rotors, and stickier tires.
if you want to stop mutiple times in a short period of time and have consistent braking distances-- buy a BBK [or get brake ducting], higher temp tolerate brake fluid, good race pads, and stickier tires
Aftermarket brake pads are generally developed to help braking "feel better" and offers an increase to the heat capacity it can take. [not all pads are the same.. Some are made to dust less, some are made to stop better cold, some are made to be used for a long period of time where consistent brake force is required when they are up at operating temperatures]. Generally, pads will help reduce reaction time to initial stopping of the vehicle. Same goes with the with SS brake lines, as this will make the brake pedal firmer, less 'squishy.' [this reduces flex of the brake line when the brake fluid is moving inside the brake lines]. Adding the slotted rotors will give more "bite" which is the initial dip or grab feeling during stopping. Adding larger rotors gives more heat capacity to the overall system. [This will prolong the inevitable "fade" which is when you want to stop, but you can't.] Brake ducting will help direct airflow to the rotors to again, prolong the time it takes for the brake to fade. Larger calipers with multiple pistons, typically allow for more even brake pad wear and larger heat capacity. When coupled with race pads, larger rotors, brake ducting, and stickier tires, allow for the car to decelerate faster, perhaps at a much later point along the track, and allows for consistent, predictable stopping distances.
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