11. now to take out the shaft. a foot or longer 3/8 extention will work as a punch. since it fits inside where the tie rod goes and it wont damage the threads inside. i have a HOMEMADE punch i made. YES I LIKE THE WORD HOMEMADE INSTEAD OF CUSTOM. LOL
my homemade punch. careful when pushing the shaft out. PUSH SLOWLY
. there is still old fluid inside the rack. once you feel the shaft stop get your hammer and give it a few good taps to pop the seal out.
how it looks when the shaft is coming out.
clean the gunk. carb cleaner works well.
12. now you need to remove the other seal inside. you need a FLAT/BLUNT 2ft long punch. my punch just for taking these inner seals out.
place punch starting from driver side of the rack and give it a tap with the hammer. DO NOT HIT TOO HARD. you can break the spacer.
the inner seal and spacer out.
**NEW INFO. if you break the spacer dont worry. i found out newer racks dont even have these spacers. YES i tested this on a rack by removing the spacer and just installing the seal only.
clean the inside of the rack. rag and punch does wonders. DO NOT CLEAN THE INSIDE OF THE RACK WITH CARB CLEANER. it will give you a hard time putting the seal back in. a good wipe is good enough.
13. remove the bearing and seal where the steering valve once was.
my punch. a flat blade screw drive should work.
tap the bearing out from underneath. notice where i place the punch. tap all around the bearing not just in one spot.
after the bearing is out, you have to remove the seal. there is a grove in the rack so you can place your punch there. couple of tap with a hammer and it should come out
14. clean the steering valve and make sure all 6 TEFLONS isnt broken. very rare that they break. carb cleaner if needed.
15. put the seal you just took out back in. ALWAYS COMPARE THE OLD AND NEW SEALS to make sure they are the same
new on left, old on right
put some grease around the new seal so it would be a bit easier to put back in. tap around the outer seal and NOT THE INNER PART OF THE SEAL.
(seal not all the way down)
to tap it all the way down you can place the OLD seal on top and tap the old seal. OR if you have a socket that is the same size of the outer edge of the seal, you can use the socket to help tap it down.
(old seal on top)
(NEW Seal all the way down.)
now put the bearing back on. tap all around the bearing not just in one place.
(bearing all the way down)
16. putting the inner seal on.
(comparing old and new)
i have this plastic film from a honda SEAL KIT to protect the seal from being cut by the teeth on the shaft. since you guys dont have this film and the kit doesnt provide one. you guys can put a long strip of tap on the edge of the teeth so it will protect the seal. put some grease on the inner and outer seal so it can slide easier.
remember to put the spacer back with the seal. remove film after the seal is pass the teeth.
putting into rack. it will be tight. dont pull it back out
you can use a 30mm socket to tap the shaft/seal back into place. it will be tight so give it some GOOD taps. you will know the seal is sit in place when the sound of the metal on metal tapping changes. careful it can mushroom easily.
you can also know if the seal is in place by looking at where you took out the hardline. you should be able to see the black teflon and not the seal.
(not that great of a pic, but you can make out the teflon)