Suspension clunk from passenger rear - BC Coils
03-22-11, 12:24 PM
#1
Suspension clunk from passenger rear - BC Coils
So I recently installed my BC Coils, about 500 miles ago. I have been noticing that when I go over a dip or bump the right rear makes a clunking noise. It's hard to explain, but it almost sounds like the three nuts that hold the shock to the shock tower are loose and the metal plate is coming up and then hitting against the stock tower...but the bolts are snug and its not moving.
I'm not sure what it could be, as I've gone over every bolt and nut that was involved in the installation and they are all tightened to spec + ~5 -10ft/lb. Has anyone else had this issue with BC Coils or any other suspension?
I'm not sure what it could be, as I've gone over every bolt and nut that was involved in the installation and they are all tightened to spec + ~5 -10ft/lb. Has anyone else had this issue with BC Coils or any other suspension?
03-22-11, 02:44 PM
#7
yup, just make sure the preload is set, and tighten the perches. Also make sure you torqued each bolt to spec.
other than that, thats all you can really do. I always thought to myself, what if i put rubber between the tophats and the car. Would it actually help?
other than that, thats all you can really do. I always thought to myself, what if i put rubber between the tophats and the car. Would it actually help?
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03-22-11, 02:55 PM
#8
Is that how to properly preload?
I'll double check the perches, but I didn't mess with them so they were set from the factory.
I torqued everything to spec as I was going, but I will go back over everything again.
03-22-11, 03:22 PM
#9
the spring should still be able to turn but with some force, but not much. you should be able to spin them with one hand.
the preload should have been set right out of the box. when i got mine, i didnt touch anything, and i had my shop install them as is. no clunks whatsoever.
the preload should have been set right out of the box. when i got mine, i didnt touch anything, and i had my shop install them as is. no clunks whatsoever.
03-24-11, 06:32 AM
#13
laobo - I will look into that.
Just a little update: I checked everything out on that side last night and nothing looked out of the ordinary. Everything was torqued to spec still. I made sure the hubcentric ring was there (had service done on my car the other day) and it was. So after I buttoned everything up, I went for a test drive before I put everything back in the trunk (tools, mats, etc.) and it seemed quieter. Then I put everything back in the trunk and made sure everything was tight so there would be no chance of a tool or something bouncing over a bump, and it still was quieter. However, on my way to work this morning the sound is still there. So I'm going to take everything out of my trunk and evaluate on my way in tomorrow morning.
One thing I did notice is that there's about 1/2"-1" of play in the coilover. I was able to move the entire hub up about 1/2"-1" with my hands. It was like there was a dead spot in the shock that was letting me do this. I'm going to try it out on the driver's side tomorrow and see if the same thing happens on that shock.
Just a little update: I checked everything out on that side last night and nothing looked out of the ordinary. Everything was torqued to spec still. I made sure the hubcentric ring was there (had service done on my car the other day) and it was. So after I buttoned everything up, I went for a test drive before I put everything back in the trunk (tools, mats, etc.) and it seemed quieter. Then I put everything back in the trunk and made sure everything was tight so there would be no chance of a tool or something bouncing over a bump, and it still was quieter. However, on my way to work this morning the sound is still there. So I'm going to take everything out of my trunk and evaluate on my way in tomorrow morning.
One thing I did notice is that there's about 1/2"-1" of play in the coilover. I was able to move the entire hub up about 1/2"-1" with my hands. It was like there was a dead spot in the shock that was letting me do this. I'm going to try it out on the driver's side tomorrow and see if the same thing happens on that shock.
03-24-11, 12:23 PM
#14
Check the 3 top nuts, check the center shock lock nut and cehck Preload.
The proper way to set preload on a coilover-
-Loosen both lock rings under the spring (spring seat ring(top) and spring lock ring(bottom)) so that the spring is loose and can move up and down slightly.
-Tighten up the spring seat ring so that the spring is snug, but do not tighten it down past simply holding the spring snug, this will be "0" preload.
-Now bring the bottom lock ring up so that it is just touching the spring seat ring, but do not tighten to lock, you will be moving the spring seat ring next.
-Now tighten up the spring seat ring so that you are now preloading (compressing) the spring.
-Measure the distance between the bottom ring and the top ring as you are tightening, once there is a 3mm gap between the two rings, you have 3mm of preload on the spring.
-Tighten up the lock ring to lock your preload in place
-Repeat for all 4 corners.
You also want to check and make sure the top 17mm center nut is tight, it's best to check it with an impact gun if you have access to one, a wuick hit is all it should need.
Sometimes noise can come from somehwere else, endlinks, swaybars, and chassis contact can all be problems. Make sure now that the car is lowered and stiffer that you don't have exhaust contact anywhere. These are all common noise issues.
The proper way to set preload on a coilover-
-Loosen both lock rings under the spring (spring seat ring(top) and spring lock ring(bottom)) so that the spring is loose and can move up and down slightly.
-Tighten up the spring seat ring so that the spring is snug, but do not tighten it down past simply holding the spring snug, this will be "0" preload.
-Now bring the bottom lock ring up so that it is just touching the spring seat ring, but do not tighten to lock, you will be moving the spring seat ring next.
-Now tighten up the spring seat ring so that you are now preloading (compressing) the spring.
-Measure the distance between the bottom ring and the top ring as you are tightening, once there is a 3mm gap between the two rings, you have 3mm of preload on the spring.
-Tighten up the lock ring to lock your preload in place
-Repeat for all 4 corners.
You also want to check and make sure the top 17mm center nut is tight, it's best to check it with an impact gun if you have access to one, a wuick hit is all it should need.
Sometimes noise can come from somehwere else, endlinks, swaybars, and chassis contact can all be problems. Make sure now that the car is lowered and stiffer that you don't have exhaust contact anywhere. These are all common noise issues.
03-24-11, 12:35 PM
#15
Lexus Test Driver
yeah I just finished up installing my Megans and there is some clunking coming from the front.
Turns out I had a loose sway bar link connection. I havent had a chance today to tighten it but I'd bet thats the problem. I'm kinda concerned to drive home with it being so loose but I've got no other choice...thats where my tools are.
Turns out I had a loose sway bar link connection. I havent had a chance today to tighten it but I'd bet thats the problem. I'm kinda concerned to drive home with it being so loose but I've got no other choice...thats where my tools are.