gmendoza

Hello there,

Great site!!! I am going to be getting the L-Tuned package on my 1998 Lexus GS300 (I am going from the stock 16s to 18s with 245/40s all around). I have a couple of questions. Do I need to get the L-Tuned SHOCKS if my current shocks may still be good? Should I just change them? Also, I have heard that once you change your suspension, you should wait a little while before you actually do a wheel alignment so that you can let things settle in. Is this true?

bitkahuna

iTrader: (20)

You should not change the springs only (and keep the stock shocks). It will handle like crap. Change the shocks also.

As for alignment, never heard of waiting. I believe you should get it done at the same time.

gsfour

I heard you should get an alignment as soon as possible or the tires will abnormally wear. It also doesn't feel very safe driving, especially when you hit a dip and cause your car to bounce left and right. The camber bolt in the rear has to be removed when installing a new suspension, so when it's reinstalled, it will be out of alignment(most of the time).

RacingAristo

I got the alignment in an hour after I had spring/shock installed. Take it to pepboy. It will only cost you $50 and they do the work in a very timely manner.

mkilty

I agree as well - take it for an alignment ASAP. I prefer a shop that has Hunter alignment gear that will get you car spot-on correct.

Good luck....

Grush

Here's what a local suspension guy, who William has used, and has done many of these types of replacements, suggested:
"You do need an alignment, however it isn't really that critical with that minimal of lowering, and you could actually wait quite a while (months even) if you had to. It is usually best to drive the car for 100 or more miles to allow the springs to settle in and put the car at the final ride height. This is usually only a difference of 1/4-3/8" or so, and you could actually get away with doing an alignment right away if you needed to also.

On the alignment, the main thing you need to readjust is the toe setting. The camber will of course be off, but it will be slightly negative, which is actually good for handling. You can run up to 3/4 degree without any significantly adverse wear."

Hope this helps...and by the way, I did not have to remove the camber bolt in the rear, assisting my mechanic. the sway bar connection and the brake caliper pop off. That's all we did.