Anybody have these pads?
02-23-10, 05:29 PM
#1
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Update Bigger Problems then I thought.
Im about to buy the Duralast GOLD C'Max pads full ceramic pad with shims
its about $55 from autozone limited lifetime warranty.
Has anyone use these before?
How do they perform (noise,stopping pwr,wear)?
Please let me know don't want to put these on and have them mess up my rotors.
Thanks
update
Well i went at bought the pads from autozone took it to my personal mechanic today. After I dropped of the car he called me back saying that the rotors are in no condition to put these new brake pads on. So i went over and he showed me what he meant. The rotors are rusted from the back not just lightly but alot. He tried resurfacing them and all he was getting was a lite amount of rust off with alot of it still left on the rotor. The rotors were slightly warped as well. I went to the dealer a couple weeks back and they told me that i needed new pads and resurface my rotors. but they never said my rotors where bad to the point where they needed to be replaced. i wouldn't see why the rotors would be so bad i don't drive rough i am pretty carefull. Anyways what i am getting at is Has anyone ever had this problem?
And
Should rotors rust that bad in a car thats barely 3 yrs old?
Do you think this is something lexus should cover in warranty?
And is it worth paying $150 per rotor to replace or is there a better alternative.?
Sorry for the bad grammer just upset about the issue.
its about $55 from autozone limited lifetime warranty.
Has anyone use these before?
How do they perform (noise,stopping pwr,wear)?
Please let me know don't want to put these on and have them mess up my rotors.
Thanks
update
Well i went at bought the pads from autozone took it to my personal mechanic today. After I dropped of the car he called me back saying that the rotors are in no condition to put these new brake pads on. So i went over and he showed me what he meant. The rotors are rusted from the back not just lightly but alot. He tried resurfacing them and all he was getting was a lite amount of rust off with alot of it still left on the rotor. The rotors were slightly warped as well. I went to the dealer a couple weeks back and they told me that i needed new pads and resurface my rotors. but they never said my rotors where bad to the point where they needed to be replaced. i wouldn't see why the rotors would be so bad i don't drive rough i am pretty carefull. Anyways what i am getting at is Has anyone ever had this problem?
And
Should rotors rust that bad in a car thats barely 3 yrs old?
Do you think this is something lexus should cover in warranty?
And is it worth paying $150 per rotor to replace or is there a better alternative.?
Sorry for the bad grammer just upset about the issue.
Last edited by DJSirkit13; 02-24-10 at 04:58 PM.
02-24-10, 05:54 AM
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That isn't true... a pad can have a great impact on stopping distance... what would be the point in going with a full race pad vs the stock pads... Initial bite changes, fade changes... all of these effect the stopping distance.
02-24-10, 06:25 AM
#5
Brembo says you're wrong. Stoptech says you're wrong. There's been a dozen or more threads on this all saying you're wrong.
Physics says you're wrong.
Pads have no impact on reducing stopping distance whatsoever.
Ditto for bigger rotors, stainless brake lines, or any other brake upgrade you care to mention
Here's Brembo for example:
Where can I find test data on stopping distances?
At the speeds that stopping distance is generally measured from (60 to 70mph), the test is primarily testing the tire's grip on the pavement. As delivered from the manufacturer, nearly all vehicles are able to engage the ABS or lock the wheels at these speeds. Therefore, an increase in braking power will do nothing to stop the vehicle in a shorter distance. For this reason, we do not record stopping distances at this time.
At the speeds that stopping distance is generally measured from (60 to 70mph), the test is primarily testing the tire's grip on the pavement. As delivered from the manufacturer, nearly all vehicles are able to engage the ABS or lock the wheels at these speeds. Therefore, an increase in braking power will do nothing to stop the vehicle in a shorter distance. For this reason, we do not record stopping distances at this time.
The brakes don't stop the car, the tires do. So long as the pads can engage ABS (which any pad for the car can) then you are applying the maximum useful force the tire can use.
Any MORE force at that point is entirely useless.
race pads will "feel" like they have more bite, but they won't stop the car any shorter.
The "point" of race pads is changing the feel (useful in some cases for racing) and increasing fade resistance, which I discuss below-
Fade doesn't reduce stopping distance (which is the distance the car can make a single panic stop in).
Fade resistance is how many time times you can brake in a short period before braking distance gets worse... it never makes it better than it was when you started.
Because the brakes don't stop the car, the tires do.
Buy the best, most expensive, race pads on earth. Now do a panic stop from highway speeds.
the car will stop in -exactly- the same distance it did with the OEM factory pads. Just like physics requires.
If you want shorter braking distance on the street buy better tires. That's the thing that actually stops the car.
If you'd like to gain a better understanding of what upgrading any part of your braking system can do for you (and why shorter stopping distance is something none of these upgrades can do for you) I highly recommend this article-
http://www.scirocco.org/faq/brakes/p...n/pfpage1.html
He gets to pads on page 3 (of 4), specifically:
Ths part might surprise some and offend others, but it is a big misconception that changing brake pad material will magically decrease your stopping distances.
You can take this one to the bank. Regardless of your huge rotor diameter, brake pedal ratio, magic brake pad material, or number of pistons in your calipers, your maximum deceleration is limited every time by the tire to road interface. That is the point of this whole article. Your brakes do not stop your car. Your tires stop the car. So while changes to different parts of the brake system may affect certain characteristics or traits of the system's behavior, using stickier tires is ultimately the only sure-fire method of decreasing stopping distances.
after that he gives some reasons why you would want to do brake upgrades (feel of the system, compliance, and heat/thermal control for racing-specific applications) but shorter stopping distance isn't one of them.
Last edited by Kurtz; 02-24-10 at 06:56 AM.
02-24-10, 11:05 AM
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Im about to buy the Duralast GOLD C'Max pads full ceramic pad with shims
its about $55 from autozone limited lifetime warranty.
Has anyone use these before?
How do they perform (noise,stopping pwr,wear)?
Please let me know don't want to put these on and have them mess up my rotors.
Thanks
its about $55 from autozone limited lifetime warranty.
Has anyone use these before?
How do they perform (noise,stopping pwr,wear)?
Please let me know don't want to put these on and have them mess up my rotors.
Thanks
Trending Topics
02-25-10, 05:00 AM
#12
Lexus Test Driver
cause it looks cool to most other folks. And ultimately, when a person mods his car, he may say its for him...but ultimately he is trying to please others with his style.
Most EVERYDAY people attribute drilled brakes to performance and good looks, regardless of their pitfalls. SO it makes sense to a modder (to gain the compliments from EVERYDAY folk) to replace his NORMAL brakes (that everyone has) to a drilled/slotted combo.
In a nutshell...to be different from the herd.
Most EVERYDAY people attribute drilled brakes to performance and good looks, regardless of their pitfalls. SO it makes sense to a modder (to gain the compliments from EVERYDAY folk) to replace his NORMAL brakes (that everyone has) to a drilled/slotted combo.
In a nutshell...to be different from the herd.
Last edited by 06isDriver; 02-25-10 at 05:03 AM.
02-25-10, 05:20 AM
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The brakes don't stop the car, the tires do. So long as the pads can engage ABS (which any pad for the car can) then you are applying the maximum useful force the tire can use.
Because the brakes don't stop the car, the tires do.
Buy the best, most expensive, race pads on earth. Now do a panic stop from highway speeds.
If you want shorter braking distance on the street buy better tires. That's the thing that actually stops the car.
Because the brakes don't stop the car, the tires do.
Buy the best, most expensive, race pads on earth. Now do a panic stop from highway speeds.
If you want shorter braking distance on the street buy better tires. That's the thing that actually stops the car.
But you can't say that a bbk or better pads cannot stop a car better... you just have to make that part of the car the weakest link in the whole stopping "système".
Coming from a soloII back ground I can tell that running a full slick you can get to the point were the brakes won't lock up your tires... but if we are talking a street driving point of view I do agree with what you are saying.
Thanks for the link I will go read this...
02-25-10, 12:26 PM
#14
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Totaly agree with you once you lock up the wheels there is nothing a better pad will do for you...
But you can't say that a bbk or better pads cannot stop a car better... you just have to make that part of the car the weakest link in the whole stopping "système".
Coming from a soloII back ground I can tell that running a full slick you can get to the point were the brakes won't lock up your tires... but if we are talking a street driving point of view I do agree with what you are saying.
Thanks for the link I will go read this...
But you can't say that a bbk or better pads cannot stop a car better... you just have to make that part of the car the weakest link in the whole stopping "système".
Coming from a soloII back ground I can tell that running a full slick you can get to the point were the brakes won't lock up your tires... but if we are talking a street driving point of view I do agree with what you are saying.
Thanks for the link I will go read this...
Commentary on chassis braces is similar. Most are just dead weight until you put real rubber under the car, then everything changes because you realize there aren't nearly enough spot welds holding the chassis together and you'd really like a roll cage just for the added stiffness.
If you read James Walker's piece in Grassroots Motorsports (Pulp Friction), you'll see pretty quickly that changing tires is the one thing guaranteed to change your stopping distance. Changing anything else changes the feel, but not the actual stopping power (unless it is impossible to lock up the wheel - then you really do need better brakes!)
02-25-10, 03:23 PM
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I just skimmed through that really quick, and while not to discredit anything:
If it's 80/20, then it should generate 25% of the force, right? Anyways, that's just a math thing.
Ultimately, it says 2260 lbs of force is being applied. But that 2260 is a result of a series of calculations involving rotor size, brake pads (coefficient of friction), and calipers (clamp load). While I can understand that the tires may have the largest impact on brake distance, I fail to see how everything else in the braking system does nothing.
Before we can sum up all the forces, there is one last little important fact to consider: The tire forces are not the same for the four corners of the car. Due to the static weight distribution of the car, the location of the center of gravity of the car, and the effects of dynamic weight transfer under braking (just to name a few), the rear brakes are designed to generate much smaller forces than the forces generated by the front brakes. For the sake of argument, and for this exercise, we'll say the split is 80 percent front and 20 percent rear, but the actual distribution is dependent on the specific vehicle configuration.
So, if each front tire generates 942 pounds of force, then we can calculate that each rear tire generates 20 percent of that, or 188 pounds. Adding up the four corners now gives us a total of 2260 pounds of force acting on the vehicle between the four tires and the road.
So, if each front tire generates 942 pounds of force, then we can calculate that each rear tire generates 20 percent of that, or 188 pounds. Adding up the four corners now gives us a total of 2260 pounds of force acting on the vehicle between the four tires and the road.
Ultimately, it says 2260 lbs of force is being applied. But that 2260 is a result of a series of calculations involving rotor size, brake pads (coefficient of friction), and calipers (clamp load). While I can understand that the tires may have the largest impact on brake distance, I fail to see how everything else in the braking system does nothing.