RyanV

iTrader: (9)

Here's my problem-

I'm trying to remove the front struts. I tried removing the swaybar end links, and I basically ruined them because they stripped out.

I tried having someone step on a-arm, but it doesnt go down far enough to manuever the strut up and out..and I cannot get to the two lower bolts in the bracket to remove it, and those bolts are super tight and I dont want to break them or strip them out because Im at some weird angle.

I think the strut is hyper extended making it harder to get out...

My last hope is to remove the upper control arm. Does anyone have any tips to do this? I guess I remove the top long bolt and slide it out towards the front of the car?

I also thought about slight compressing the spring while its installed on the car, just enough to remove the strut, but I dont feel that it's safe to do. Has anyone else used a spring compressor to get the strut off the car? I only need to compress it maybe 1" to get it out of there, btu I do like my fingers as well...

5sp_jzz30

iTrader: (2)

i always remove the upper control arm to do that job. easiest way ever.

also do both sides at once or disconnect the front sway bar from the chassis. that way you dont have the sway bar preloading the other side.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

I just finished up. I did remove the upper control arm, it was easy after that.

My mistake was using someones how to which said to remove the sway bar end links...well that aint a good idea if the end links are really tight because you'll strip that allen head hole once it gets 1/2 off, then you'll have to cut the MF'Er off...and it cost $70 for both sides new from Moog, which actually advertises the front for the rear and rear for the front!!

So your saying to remove the sway bar at the bushings and leave the end links connected once the wheels are off the ground right?

5sp_jzz30

iTrader: (2)

yep. disconnect it from the chassis. not the control arm.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

I had to remove the struts because I didn't realize the strut mounts were toast!

I was getting a clunk over small bumps.

Now that I know how and what tools to use to remove the struts, it's a 40min deal.

kponti

The end link is connected to either the control arm or the swaybar, so your statement comes off confusing. I am thinking you meant disconnect from control arm, not swaybar.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

The problem when I removed my sway bar end links was this-

They probably haven't been removed in a long time or maybe never. They were so tight that the allen head actually stripped out so I got into a pickle with these. I ended up having to cut both sway bar end links off the car.

Also if you take the struts apart. Don't forget that in order to install them you have to line up one of the top 3 mounting bolts with the center of the lower strut mount bushing. You can see this when you are taking the strut out.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I didn't have to remove anything related to the swaybar.. As Ryan learned the hard way when you have over 100k miles on your car everytime you remove something you don't need to you are just adding more wear and tear, and starting potential problems.

just make sure you lift up both side of the front to the same height before you do it.
remove the upper control arm, which on the drivers side you have to move the washer fluid reservoir some to be able to slide the bolt out. remove and later reinstall shock. reinstall upper control arm and tighten bolt to firm. **Edit: put wheels back on car** then drop the car on the ground, let it settle, and then torque the control arm bolts to spec. werd.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

I didn't see anything about this in the OEM service manual. If you drop the car to ground with the wheels on, how would you get to the upper control arm to torque it?

EDIT: I guess what you could do it put a jackstand under the control arm and let it down. I had to do this at all 4 wheels to measure for my driveshaft.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Im not sure if its in the manual or not. Im just saying what I do.
I tighten it firm to where its safe to put the car back on the ground on its wheels.
no jack stands are needed or used. you put the car completely down with the wheels back on, like regular, like u are going to drive it. Its easy, jack stands would make it way more difficult and not to mention dangerous.

then you turn the wheel full lock to the left or right, whichever is easiest for you to lay down and get your torque wrench on there (extensions can make this easier) and you torque it to its final torque setting. a friend to hold the other side is very helpfull.

The reason is so you give the upper control arms bushings a chance to settle close to the right spot before you fully torque them down. Imagine fully torquing it when the wheels are up in the air, and when you drop it back down the control arms will twist on the bushings as the arm moves to the right angle. since your car spends most of its life on the ground, this is the best spot to have the bushes tightened. one time I torqued it in the air my passenger side control arm would not settle at the correct height until i loosened it up and did the final re torquing on the ground.

RedPhoenix

iTrader: (10)

If you dont want to remove any arms you need to remove the bracket that connects to the lower arm and to the shock. You said there is not enough room. You are right, but it is doable. I used a 14mm ratcheting box wrench. After its removed, I had a friend stand on the rotor to push it down and then slid the whole thing out.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

Makes sense to me, I'll retorque mine on the ground.

scfou

iTrader: (3)

I know you are done with the drop, but the correct order is to remove the wheel of course; losen the 3 nuts from the shock tower; losen the the center nut on the shock tower too; remove the nut from the sway bar link; jack up the lower arm until you can easily tilt the endlink away from the sway bar, remove the bolt from the lower arm that secures the shock in place; remove the upper control arm nut and bolt, and out goes your shocks and springs. You don't need a spring compressor either to remove the the spring from the shock. The driver side is the hardest because it's a pita to remove all the bolts that hold the washer reservoir in place. You must do this to remove the long bolt from the upper control arm.