Time to replace rusted lines, no brakes.
09-14-09, 04:39 PM
#1
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Time to replace rusted lines, no brakes.
So, I lost brakes the other day after a wayward pedestrian stepped off the curb in front of me. The ABS engaged and I didn't hit them, but it sounded and felt less than normal. Hmmm. Sure enough, by the time I got home I had almost no brakes left at all. The puddle in my driveway confirmed a leak at the rear.
Now up on stands in the garage, I see that the brake coupler fittings above the rear cross member are completely rusted one is ruptured and leaking. Clearly it's time to do the deed and just replace both the lines all the way up to the master cylinder. While I'm at it I plan to replace the fuel lines since they are totally rusted too and the filter is just a blob of rust.
Anybody have any input here? I've replaced brake lines before so I know what I'm in for. I believe they are double flared? I was hoping to just get some bulk brake line and bend/flare it to fit to save some $$. I've used tubing with pre-installed fittings that you just bend to fit and that worked well too.
I've never replaced fuel lines but I know I'll have to de-pressurize the system first. Banjo fittings at both ends, but I'll need to make fittings for the fuel filter couplings. We'll see how it goes.
When your car doesn't start its an inconvenience; when your car doesn't stop its a potential disaster.
Wish me luck!
Now up on stands in the garage, I see that the brake coupler fittings above the rear cross member are completely rusted one is ruptured and leaking. Clearly it's time to do the deed and just replace both the lines all the way up to the master cylinder. While I'm at it I plan to replace the fuel lines since they are totally rusted too and the filter is just a blob of rust.
Anybody have any input here? I've replaced brake lines before so I know what I'm in for. I believe they are double flared? I was hoping to just get some bulk brake line and bend/flare it to fit to save some $$. I've used tubing with pre-installed fittings that you just bend to fit and that worked well too.
I've never replaced fuel lines but I know I'll have to de-pressurize the system first. Banjo fittings at both ends, but I'll need to make fittings for the fuel filter couplings. We'll see how it goes.
When your car doesn't start its an inconvenience; when your car doesn't stop its a potential disaster.
Wish me luck!
09-16-09, 02:34 PM
#3
These cheap flare tools are no good.They come out crooked almost 100%. Go to Autozone and buy some pre flared lines. They already have the nuts on them.
Choose the ones that are double flared, and with metric nuts .These are very cheap, and only Autozone has them.
Makes the job a cake.
Remember to measure corectly
Choose the ones that are double flared, and with metric nuts .These are very cheap, and only Autozone has them.
Makes the job a cake.
Remember to measure corectly
09-16-09, 06:48 PM
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These cheap flare tools are no good.They come out crooked almost 100%. Go to Autozone and buy some pre flared lines. They already have the nuts on them.
Choose the ones that are double flared, and with metric nuts .These are very cheap, and only Autozone has them.
Makes the job a cake.
Remember to measure corectly
Choose the ones that are double flared, and with metric nuts .These are very cheap, and only Autozone has them.
Makes the job a cake.
Remember to measure corectly
Thanks.
09-16-09, 07:00 PM
#5
Soom cool tools i want to own some day to do projects with.
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-brake-for...ol-pliers.html
Yeah I know they get very expensive after a while which is why for me, I work on cars on the side to get my investments back
Here's a good one.
http://www.eastwood.com/professional...ring-tool.html
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-brake-for...ol-pliers.html
Yeah I know they get very expensive after a while which is why for me, I work on cars on the side to get my investments back
Here's a good one.
http://www.eastwood.com/professional...ring-tool.html
09-17-09, 12:29 AM
#6
Your other option is to just run braided teflon line for the brakes and high pressure line for the fuel. With AN stuff you wont have to worry about doing the flairs.
Also look into buying the lines from lexus. You can probably just buy direct replacements as well.
Also look into buying the lines from lexus. You can probably just buy direct replacements as well.
09-17-09, 06:03 AM
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I just had the same experience as well a couple months back. I was coming to a red light and the pedal went to the floor luckily the booster still assisted the brakes and I had my hand on the ebrake too. 
I got under my car and my fuel filter was a mess of rust like yours is too and all of my lines were almost rusted in half like the brake lines. 
So I dove in and replaced all of them including TRAC control line, fuel, and both brake lines. This job was a complete PITA,
I used a lift and everthing. Some difficulties I will warn you about would be find something to use with the same style thread as the fuel line that comes off of the bottom of the tank to plug it up, or you will have gas all over your floor like I did. You will need to take out the rear subframe bolts and drop it down to give you that extra couple of inches of clearance to feed you new lines back through since you can't be too rough with them so they don't kink. The plastic clips are very brittle and like to break, I had alot of problems with those things. The SC300 and 400 brake lines are the only ones that interchange. I bought my fuel lines and TRAC control line new from Lexus and used a set of good condition used brake lines from the salvage yard. All together it cost me about 400 including a new oem fuel filter, it also requires alot of time and patience. I wish you the best of luck man, I hope I don't have to do it again any time soon.
I got under my car and my fuel filter was a mess of rust like yours is too and all of my lines were almost rusted in half like the brake lines. So I dove in and replaced all of them including TRAC control line, fuel, and both brake lines. This job was a complete PITA, I used a lift and everthing. Some difficulties I will warn you about would be find something to use with the same style thread as the fuel line that comes off of the bottom of the tank to plug it up, or you will have gas all over your floor like I did. You will need to take out the rear subframe bolts and drop it down to give you that extra couple of inches of clearance to feed you new lines back through since you can't be too rough with them so they don't kink. The plastic clips are very brittle and like to break, I had alot of problems with those things. The SC300 and 400 brake lines are the only ones that interchange. I bought my fuel lines and TRAC control line new from Lexus and used a set of good condition used brake lines from the salvage yard. All together it cost me about 400 including a new oem fuel filter, it also requires alot of time and patience. I wish you the best of luck man, I hope I don't have to do it again any time soon.
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09-17-09, 06:05 AM
#8
I just had the same experience as well a couple months back. I was coming to a red light and the pedal went to the floor luckily the booster still assisted the brakes and I had my hand on the ebrake too. I got under my car and my fuel filter was a mess of rust like yours is too and all of my lines were almost rusted in half like the brake lines. So I dove in and replaced all of them including TRAC control line, fuel, and both brake lines. This job was a complete PITA, I used a lift and everthing. Some difficulties I will warn you about would be find something to use with the same style thread as the fuel line that comes off of the bottom of the tank to plug it up, or you will have gas all over your floor like I did. You will need to take out the rear subframe bolts and drop it down to give you that extra couple of inches of clearance to feed you new lines back through since you can't be too rough with them so they don't kink. The plastic clips are very brittle and like to break, I had alot of problems with those things. The SC300 and 400 brake lines are the only ones that interchange. I bought my fuel lines and TRAC control line new from Lexus and used a set of good condition used brake lines from the salvage yard. All together it cost me about 400 including a new oem fuel filter, it also requires alot of time and patience. I wish you the best of luck man, I hope I don't have to do it again any time soon.
I got under my car and my fuel filter was a mess of rust like yours is too and all of my lines were almost rusted in half like the brake lines. So I dove in and replaced all of them including TRAC control line, fuel, and both brake lines. This job was a complete PITA, I used a lift and everthing. Some difficulties I will warn you about would be find something to use with the same style thread as the fuel line that comes off of the bottom of the tank to plug it up, or you will have gas all over your floor like I did. You will need to take out the rear subframe bolts and drop it down to give you that extra couple of inches of clearance to feed you new lines back through since you can't be too rough with them so they don't kink. The plastic clips are very brittle and like to break, I had alot of problems with those things. The SC300 and 400 brake lines are the only ones that interchange. I bought my fuel lines and TRAC control line new from Lexus and used a set of good condition used brake lines from the salvage yard. All together it cost me about 400 including a new oem fuel filter, it also requires alot of time and patience. I wish you the best of luck man, I hope I don't have to do it again any time soon.
09-17-09, 06:10 AM
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+1, great info, thanks for sharing
Anytime man, I have got alot of info off of the board to assist me on some of my adventures. So anything I can do to help out someone else, and make their task easier.
Anytime man, I have got alot of info off of the board to assist me on some of my adventures. So anything I can do to help out someone else, and make their task easier.
09-17-09, 01:06 PM
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I might PM you, CTS-SC4 if I get stuck at some point. I was expecting it to be a PITA for sure. It helps to know what I'm in for. You kick *** man.
10-14-11, 10:47 PM
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Done
Finally the follow up to my thread.
Thanks again for your help CTS-SC4.
I priced the parts I needed from Lexus at $280. Not bad for a perfect fitting setup.
First, I removed the entire exhaust to access and lower the rear subframe. Next the rear brake lines were removed - they almost fell out from being so rusted. While the exhaust was out I put in all new gaskets all the way to the head. I had to have the flanges built up with weld so I could grind them down to make up for the corroded joints.
When I tried to lower the rear subframe there were big rusted bolts that wouldn't budge that mounted to the body. I used all the special toothed/gripping sockets and PB Blaster to try to get them out with no luck. They were just rusted and rounded. I was fed up, so I decided to just get the car back on the road by capping off the master cylinder so I would at least have front brakes. I was starting to look for a replacement car.
Then the wife and I got pregnant. This was good news, but it meant the car had to go for sure. I stored it for a year and finally said goodbye. The fuel line was leaking too at the rusted filter by then.
It was time for the SC to go.
Damn fine car. Damn fine.
The new car is a WRX. Very fun but not as well made and not as cool as the SC300.
Thanks again for your help CTS-SC4.
I priced the parts I needed from Lexus at $280. Not bad for a perfect fitting setup.
First, I removed the entire exhaust to access and lower the rear subframe. Next the rear brake lines were removed - they almost fell out from being so rusted. While the exhaust was out I put in all new gaskets all the way to the head. I had to have the flanges built up with weld so I could grind them down to make up for the corroded joints.
When I tried to lower the rear subframe there were big rusted bolts that wouldn't budge that mounted to the body. I used all the special toothed/gripping sockets and PB Blaster to try to get them out with no luck. They were just rusted and rounded. I was fed up, so I decided to just get the car back on the road by capping off the master cylinder so I would at least have front brakes. I was starting to look for a replacement car.
Then the wife and I got pregnant. This was good news, but it meant the car had to go for sure. I stored it for a year and finally said goodbye. The fuel line was leaking too at the rusted filter by then.
It was time for the SC to go.
Damn fine car. Damn fine.
The new car is a WRX. Very fun but not as well made and not as cool as the SC300.
03-14-13, 09:05 PM
#15
Was This What Happened?
Finally the follow up to my thread.
Thanks again for your help CTS-SC4.
I priced the parts I needed from Lexus at $280. Not bad for a perfect fitting setup.
First, I removed the entire exhaust to access and lower the rear subframe. Next the rear brake lines were removed - they almost fell out from being so rusted. While the exhaust was out I put in all new gaskets all the way to the head. I had to have the flanges built up with weld so I could grind them down to make up for the corroded joints.
When I tried to lower the rear subframe there were big rusted bolts that wouldn't budge that mounted to the body. I used all the special toothed/gripping sockets and PB Blaster to try to get them out with no luck. They were just rusted and rounded. I was fed up, so I decided to just get the car back on the road by capping off the master cylinder so I would at least have front brakes. I was starting to look for a replacement car.
Then the wife and I got pregnant. This was good news, but it meant the car had to go for sure. I stored it for a year and finally said goodbye. The fuel line was leaking too at the rusted filter by then.
It was time for the SC to go.
Damn fine car. Damn fine.
The new car is a WRX. Very fun but not as well made and not as cool as the SC300.
Thanks again for your help CTS-SC4.
I priced the parts I needed from Lexus at $280. Not bad for a perfect fitting setup.
First, I removed the entire exhaust to access and lower the rear subframe. Next the rear brake lines were removed - they almost fell out from being so rusted. While the exhaust was out I put in all new gaskets all the way to the head. I had to have the flanges built up with weld so I could grind them down to make up for the corroded joints.
When I tried to lower the rear subframe there were big rusted bolts that wouldn't budge that mounted to the body. I used all the special toothed/gripping sockets and PB Blaster to try to get them out with no luck. They were just rusted and rounded. I was fed up, so I decided to just get the car back on the road by capping off the master cylinder so I would at least have front brakes. I was starting to look for a replacement car.
Then the wife and I got pregnant. This was good news, but it meant the car had to go for sure. I stored it for a year and finally said goodbye. The fuel line was leaking too at the rusted filter by then.
It was time for the SC to go.
Damn fine car. Damn fine.
The new car is a WRX. Very fun but not as well made and not as cool as the SC300.