Asha'man

iTrader: (1)

I had my car in for an alignment a couple weeks ago and the guy said that even with a 3-foot breaker bar, he could not get any of the rear camber bolts to even budge. This can only mean that they're in the same rusted-tight condition that my driver's side front was in (thread). My initial reaction was just to say "screw it", as I would rather buy tires every year than go through that again x4.

However, an opportunity has arisen for me to possibly get my hands on one of two SC subframes. I don't know details on the cars yet, but there's a 300 and a 400. How difficult would it be to rip the entire rear subframe out of the 400 (for sake of retaining the correct rear gearing), assuming the control arm bolts will move, and stick it under my car? Or, if the gearing in the 300 diff would be more conducive to a future W58 swap, I could grab that subframe instead.

Did some searching and it looks like the subframes really aren't that difficult to remove, but I couldn't find any real DYI's for the procedure. Anyone done this, especially for the reason I'm considering it?

1siksc

iTrader: (8)

did he use a torch?

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

I did this in August of last year. You need various tools, but it can be done. I replaced the whole read end assembly with another 400, 400 to 400, no gear changes. The hardest part was aligning everything up and you will need an extra jack stands, extra jack, and another hand to make it easier. I dont think you can do this yourself. My rear end was making a little whining noise. I replaced this with another one, the new/used one was hub to hub, all I did was drop the other one out and put the other one back in. I reused my calipers, and rotors, etc.
I didnt take any pictures or anything, buts its straight forward. lastly, I tried to break free one of the alignment bolts also on the strut rod, to get the new bushings in, and couldnt budge it, even after 10 minutes of direct heat. It was in there. I had to cut it off with a angle grinder and ordered a new bolt and nut fromthe local Lexus Stealership. It was 17.14 for the bolt and nut. Good luck, if you have any other questions, PM me.

Biggu

iTrader: (12)

you can do it yourself. i did it myself last year no problems.

Asha'man

iTrader: (1)

Good to know. Still following the progress of these cars and hoping I can get this done.

CLNSC3

iTrader: (4)

I swapped my subframe out last winter, by myself in my garage w/ no lift. Just had the car up on jackstands. Its pretty straight forward, the part I had the biggest problem with was jacking the new subframe up into place. I used two jacks and wrestled with it for quite a while. It would be A LOT easier with two people.

Biggu

iTrader: (12)

get a el cheapo transmission jack from harbor freight and it works like a dream. however your going to need to use a jack also to help support it.

schase

i just swap my rear from sc3 to 400
move exhaust, unbolt the driveshaft, unbolt the hand brake, unblock sway bar, unblock caliper no brake fuild mess., unbolt subframe 4 12 bolt and 2 19's when it drop the struts gona hold it, put a jack under pumpkin then unbolt the strut tower and lower the jack
i did mines is that order since i did it alone to put in the new one i got a hand to align it right all in 3 hrs

ps make sure to PB all the bolts good or wd40