Boots leaking? Steering Rack(Rack and Pinion) Replacement DIY
04-19-14, 07:43 AM
#51
I don't know if the core charge would be eligible for a gift card tier, but at either 2 or 3 x $25, that puts their rack and pinion in the same price range as the cheapest on eBay (seller: detroitaxle), but buying local should make the mechanic happier if not DIY'ing it.
Edit: core charges are excluded in the fine print, so just $50 off with the current special.
Last edited by t2d2; 04-19-14 at 09:42 AM.
05-25-14, 01:05 PM
#52
I just started on this job today. I got stuck at the point of separating the tie rod ends from the socket. Maybe it's the unit I bought, but my brand new pitman arm puller isn't tight enough to get a grasp on the bottom of the sockets.
I've managed to 'fenagle' it enough to somewhat of a gap between the tie rod and socket. Would it be a bad idea to get a pickle fork and wedge it in there to leverage the thing out?
I do have it soaking in PB blaster right now while I take the rest of the day to cool.
***Edit: Advance Auto sells two sizes. One labeled for pitman arms, one labeled for tie rod ends. I ended up buying the larger. Going tomorrow to exchange.
I've managed to 'fenagle' it enough to somewhat of a gap between the tie rod and socket. Would it be a bad idea to get a pickle fork and wedge it in there to leverage the thing out?
I do have it soaking in PB blaster right now while I take the rest of the day to cool.
***Edit: Advance Auto sells two sizes. One labeled for pitman arms, one labeled for tie rod ends. I ended up buying the larger. Going tomorrow to exchange.
Last edited by MongooseGA; 05-25-14 at 07:35 PM.
06-04-14, 01:03 PM
#54
Anyone have a trick to access the bolts for the feed and return lines? I thought maybe if I got the tie rod ends off fist, I could hang the rack down and get above it that way but it didn't really work out how I thought it would.
Also my new tie rod ends were just delivered today. One with a castle nut and cotter pin, the other with a lock nut. Should I swap the lock nutted unit out with the vendor for a unit using a castle nut?
Also my new tie rod ends were just delivered today. One with a castle nut and cotter pin, the other with a lock nut. Should I swap the lock nutted unit out with the vendor for a unit using a castle nut?
06-12-14, 07:01 PM
#55
After leaving the car sitting on jacks for a good while, a buddy and I got the old rack out and new one in today. Having done it now, I could do it again pretty easily on another SC. I'd suggest doing the work in the following order:
1) Remove tie rod ends from knuckles. (I found it was much easier for me to do this once I'd removed the calipers.)
2) Remove all bushing bolts (three bushings).
3) Remove spline lock from the top of the engine. It's pretty easy to reach a 12mm gear wrench on the bolt and finish it off by hand.
4) Unclip the plastic electrical connection, which is right next to the spline lock bolt.
5) PULL the rack down. It was really helpful to my my friend watching from the top while I pulled on the bottom. After a few good yanks, it came off. No real drama.
5) Now that the rack is basically hanging out of the car, the fluid feed and return lines are right in front of you.
Install in the reverse order. Because of the way the hard lines are bent for the fluid feed/return, I found it easiest to remove the rubber hose from the hard line that wasn't crimped on. Just take a pair of pliers and scoot it up the hose a few inches. Also, install the line that is crimped first. For easy bonus points, loosen up the clamp that holds the two lines together a little further toward the front of the car so you can manipulate the lines more easily.
I have new tie rod ends to install on the new rack, and I don't feel like dicking with removing the lock nut on the old units anymore to reuse it. I'm going to swing by a specialty hardware store tomorrow to buy two new ones. Then I can put the new tie rod ends on, put the calipers back on, wheels, fluid flush, and alignment.
1) Remove tie rod ends from knuckles. (I found it was much easier for me to do this once I'd removed the calipers.)
2) Remove all bushing bolts (three bushings).
3) Remove spline lock from the top of the engine. It's pretty easy to reach a 12mm gear wrench on the bolt and finish it off by hand.
4) Unclip the plastic electrical connection, which is right next to the spline lock bolt.
5) PULL the rack down. It was really helpful to my my friend watching from the top while I pulled on the bottom. After a few good yanks, it came off. No real drama.
5) Now that the rack is basically hanging out of the car, the fluid feed and return lines are right in front of you.
Install in the reverse order. Because of the way the hard lines are bent for the fluid feed/return, I found it easiest to remove the rubber hose from the hard line that wasn't crimped on. Just take a pair of pliers and scoot it up the hose a few inches. Also, install the line that is crimped first. For easy bonus points, loosen up the clamp that holds the two lines together a little further toward the front of the car so you can manipulate the lines more easily.
I have new tie rod ends to install on the new rack, and I don't feel like dicking with removing the lock nut on the old units anymore to reuse it. I'm going to swing by a specialty hardware store tomorrow to buy two new ones. Then I can put the new tie rod ends on, put the calipers back on, wheels, fluid flush, and alignment.
08-03-14, 01:07 AM
#57
Pole Position
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hey guys sorry to bump an old tread! just received a used rack and pinion off of the classified section. my question is, is there a grease fitting port to put some grease in or just the power steering fluid gonna provide all the necessary lube needed?
03-19-15, 08:44 PM
#58
Moderator
Additional tip:
The steering shaft has a short connecting piece with 12mm bolts. Loosen the bolt near the firewall and remove the other bolt which is at the rack end. Slide the connecting rod up and that will separate the rack from the steering rod. Rack will come out easy.
When you put serviced/new rack in you dont have to worry about the connecting rod. Just center the rack and secure it in place. Center the steering, pull the connecting rod up and then slide it down on to the geared shaft of the rack.
If the wheel is not centered, you can reposition the connecting shaft and make the two ends conform.
Torque 26 ft-lb
With the above trick, one can do the job solo.
Salim
The steering shaft has a short connecting piece with 12mm bolts. Loosen the bolt near the firewall and remove the other bolt which is at the rack end. Slide the connecting rod up and that will separate the rack from the steering rod. Rack will come out easy.
When you put serviced/new rack in you dont have to worry about the connecting rod. Just center the rack and secure it in place. Center the steering, pull the connecting rod up and then slide it down on to the geared shaft of the rack.
If the wheel is not centered, you can reposition the connecting shaft and make the two ends conform.
Torque 26 ft-lb
With the above trick, one can do the job solo.
Salim
Last edited by salimshah; 03-19-15 at 08:49 PM.
03-21-15, 02:12 PM
#59
You can use a vacuum pump to bleed the system as well. They are about $35.00 at Auto Zone.
Steve
Steve
06-15-15, 02:09 AM
#60
Racer
Sub'd I know its an old thread but I need this info for future reference