Tein CS Coilovers
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Tein CS Coilovers
Just got my Tein CS Coilovers installed on my 98 gs400 after 4 long hours of work with a buddy. I got it aligned the very next day as the alignment was WACK after the install. I set the coilovers on the softest setting but seems to be a little too soft for me (a little bit softer than stock). Anyone have any suggestions on how many CLICKS i should go with front and back. Thankx
Martin
Martin
#3
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: OH
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I did install the CS too roughly a month ago, but I can't feel any difference from the softest and the hardest setting. My friend told me its because there is no much space to travel for the shock since I adjust the coilovers to the lowest possible height. Anyway, anybody out there know how to adjust the coilover even lower than the the lowest height?
#4
Lexus Fanatic
Martin - You just have to try it out and see for yourself...what someone else thinks is "OK" may not be OK for you...generally, the fronts are set stiffer than the rear...
ivc - there is no way to set it past the lowest setting because you have no threading left...the only way to do it is to have the shock body threaded some more...
ivc - there is no way to set it past the lowest setting because you have no threading left...the only way to do it is to have the shock body threaded some more...
#5
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: OH
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have thought about rethreading it a little further, but what I'm afraid is, is there enough space for the shock to travel? Do you by any chance know the shock travel left after I set it in the lowest height? I'm worried that if I rethread it more, it will often hit the bump stop every time I hit a small pothole...
Thanks.
Thanks.
#6
Lexus Fanatic
Unfortunately, I can't answer that question. You could TRY sending Tein some email...dunno if they'll respond though...the USA office seems rather clueless...
You could always just TRY it and if it does bump, then just move it back up....if I had to GUESS, I would say it wouldn't be a problem.
You could always just TRY it and if it does bump, then just move it back up....if I had to GUESS, I would say it wouldn't be a problem.
#7
Originally posted by ivc
I did install the CS too roughly a month ago, but I can't feel any difference from the softest and the hardest setting. My friend told me its because there is no much space to travel for the shock since I adjust the coilovers to the lowest possible height. Anyway, anybody out there know how to adjust the coilover even lower than the the lowest height?
I did install the CS too roughly a month ago, but I can't feel any difference from the softest and the hardest setting. My friend told me its because there is no much space to travel for the shock since I adjust the coilovers to the lowest possible height. Anyway, anybody out there know how to adjust the coilover even lower than the the lowest height?
Trending Topics
#8
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: OH
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't remember the exact height when the original shock and spring is still in use, but I'm pretty sure it is roughly 2.5"
The front still has a gap the size of maybe a pinky. And the back tires are covered by the fender roughly a pinky. That's the lowest possible height. Each of the coilover has 2 big nuts for adjusting the height and locking it in the middle. I have thought that since I put it in the lowest setting, I could just remove 1 of them and getting it further lower by 0.25"
But eventhough I want them to lower more, I could feel that the bumper can easily hit the floor, especially when I go into people's driveway, just have to drive diagonnaly.
The front still has a gap the size of maybe a pinky. And the back tires are covered by the fender roughly a pinky. That's the lowest possible height. Each of the coilover has 2 big nuts for adjusting the height and locking it in the middle. I have thought that since I put it in the lowest setting, I could just remove 1 of them and getting it further lower by 0.25"
But eventhough I want them to lower more, I could feel that the bumper can easily hit the floor, especially when I go into people's driveway, just have to drive diagonnaly.
#9
Originally posted by ivc
I don't remember the exact height when the original shock and spring is still in use, but I'm pretty sure it is roughly 2.5"
The front still has a gap the size of maybe a pinky. And the back tires are covered by the fender roughly a pinky. That's the lowest possible height. Each of the coilover has 2 big nuts for adjusting the height and locking it in the middle. I have thought that since I put it in the lowest setting, I could just remove 1 of them and getting it further lower by 0.25"
But eventhough I want them to lower more, I could feel that the bumper can easily hit the floor, especially when I go into people's driveway, just have to drive diagonnaly.
I don't remember the exact height when the original shock and spring is still in use, but I'm pretty sure it is roughly 2.5"
The front still has a gap the size of maybe a pinky. And the back tires are covered by the fender roughly a pinky. That's the lowest possible height. Each of the coilover has 2 big nuts for adjusting the height and locking it in the middle. I have thought that since I put it in the lowest setting, I could just remove 1 of them and getting it further lower by 0.25"
But eventhough I want them to lower more, I could feel that the bumper can easily hit the floor, especially when I go into people's driveway, just have to drive diagonnaly.
WHoa, that's a pretty huge drop. Have you thought about going to 19's or even 20's. That would help get rid of the wheel gap without a huge drop in suspension.
I can't wait to get TEIN's. I need to lower my front more due to the weight of my speaker box in the rear which is causing my back end to sag a little. Right now I have a 1" drop all around. I need at least a 2.0" drop up front with a 1.4" in the rear to even out.
#10
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: OH
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Are you getting the HA or CS? I am really happy that I get the CS, because after putting it in the lowest height, the ride is still very nice. A little harder, but just a little, its actually better. For roughly 2.5" drop, that comfort is, I would say awesome...
#11
Lexus Fanatic
IVC, if you have it that low already, I wouldn't try to lower it any more. And DO NOT take out the lock ring....you're suspension can SHIFT w/o it...what's wrong with the way it's set now? Sounds perfect...
#12
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: OH
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Maranay: Thing is, the front still has a small gap. I wanted at least the tire being covered by the fender a little bit, not too much. I have thought of getting bigger wheels, but that cost a lot of money. Regarding the shifting suspension that you mentioned... I still don't understand how it can happen. For instance, if I remove the lower ring, move the upper ring further down 0.25" and tigthened it against the last thread, wouldn't it be the same actually? Maybe I'm missing something here. The only concern that I have, is 1 ring strong enough to support the weight of the car, versus 2 rings.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#13
Originally posted by ivc
Are you getting the HA or CS? I am really happy that I get the CS, because after putting it in the lowest height, the ride is still very nice. A little harder, but just a little, its actually better. For roughly 2.5" drop, that comfort is, I would say awesome...
Are you getting the HA or CS? I am really happy that I get the CS, because after putting it in the lowest height, the ride is still very nice. A little harder, but just a little, its actually better. For roughly 2.5" drop, that comfort is, I would say awesome...
#14
Lexus Fanatic
ivc - Here's the deal...the bottom ring is a lock ring, it keeps the upper ring from moving. Now if you remove that ring, the threads on the upper ring will lock against the body of the shock. HOWEVER, the constant vibrations and load can push the ring PAST the threading (try it out with some threaded PVC pipes...it's not really hard to do)...if that happens, your front or rear end (depending on which side you did it to) will COMPLETELY COLLAPSE. Do you really want to run that risk while you're driving your car at 75MPH on the freeway just to get a extra .25"? Is your life and/or the life of others worth it?
Just get bigger wheels...18's look small on a GS anyways!
Just get bigger wheels...18's look small on a GS anyways!