dgoulian

This was a great post - you really put some effort into it. I especially appreciate the exact size of 8mm hex bolt to pop off the rotor - most other posts I've seen just guess at the size. The only thing I would add is best to use 2 8mm bolts to pop the rotor. The put two threaded holes for a reason: only one bolt could "****" the rotor making it harder to get off. In any event, the bolts are definitely the way to go.

jvmagic

Hi,

Do you have to replace the Fit Kit and Shim Kit (doing rear brakes) or can I use the same ones? Car has 22k miles...2010.

Thanks in advance

mandyfig

Great Vid! I should have researched this before going into the rears. Shame on me for not doing the research. I went at it and when saw the springs, backed off.

Will look at it next week. I am down to 4 mm in the rear, pads are ready. But I should have ordered a fresh set of shims, the previous owner painted them and they look sucky.

mandyfig

Just changed my rear pads. This was a very good resource. And just a reminder there are rights and lefts on the pads. The inner pad that has the squeel tab should have the tab in the bottom. That's how you can tell which set goes where.

valeoray

I'm just wondering if the bleeder valve should be opened when resetting the piston. I read that if you don't do this, contaminants (instead of coming out the bleeder) could make their way into the ABS system and damage it.

I also wonder if Lexus mechanics skip this step even if it is required. Thanks!

soulsoarer

iTrader: (2)

Just to confirm, this DIY is for an IS350 as well and I do not have to remove the calipers? If I do have to remove the calipers will I experience the seized bolt issue like the IS250 owners?

Thanks for your time.

VTsuckah

iTrader: (1)

Yes, it is for 350s as well and you do not need to remove the calipers to change out the pads. If you have difficulty sliding in the pads, you likely have a siezed sliding pin. Removing the calipers does not result in seized pins, rust is.

soulsoarer

iTrader: (2)

Unfortunately my rear brake caliper pin is stuck. I got the pin to turn about 25 degree but still could not get it loose, spent 2 hours on it. I was using a rubber mallet the whole time hammering the caliper bracket arm back and forth. I am going the Lexus dealership tomorrow and talk to one of the service guys to see what there solution is. Hopefully I can have them just service the stuck pin and I can do the brake job myself without it costing too much. If not I might have to order an aftermarket caliper kit. I don't want to because that would be more money and I would need to powder coat my rear calipers again. In the meantime I replace the inner pads because they were worn, my outer pads still have some life left. If anyone has any other solutions or suggestions that would be great.

VTsuckah

iTrader: (1)

You can try spraying some penetrating fluid like PB Blaster onto the pin, let it fester for a few hours, the try hammering it again. I'm sure if you take it to the dealership, they will tell you that you need new calipers.

soulsoarer

iTrader: (2)

I talked to one of the actual service guys and he told me they run into that problem a few times. He said it's a hit and miss. They also use penetrating grease as well to get the calipers off. Regardless if they can get it off or not the brake job for the rear is $300. Now if they can guranteed me they can get it off and do the brake job then I might consider it since a new set of calipers plus my time would cost me that much if not more. I'm going to buy a new afermarket set or find a use oem set, get some penatrating grease, try to loosen it again, and if it doesn't work at least I have the aftermarket ones to switch out. Wish me luck! I'll need it.

Toolman5

My local Lexus dealer told me this morning that a rear brake job with resurfacing the rotors would be about $360 and $500 with new rotors. This is why I'm reading this thread. Great write-up. I'll be doing it myself.

WOLFGREY

Wish I had seen this earlier. If the caliper arm seizes up- put the clamp on to compress as much as you can, hit it with a hammer(rubber mallet wasn't working for me), then compress more. Repeat until it completely compresses. I have never got an explanation as to what causes this. If anyone has could you pass it on to me, thanks.

eruzzo

Very good DIY. The only problem I encountered, was to remove the disc because I did not know how to release the parking brake.

In order to it, you need to rotate the disc so that the hole, where the rubber groment is, is on the rear side of the car. In this hole you should see a dented wheel. With a flat screwdriver turn it (I do not remember if it is clockwise or counter-clockwise) and remember how many turn you give it, since this is the adjustment for you parking brake. It took me 15 turns in order to be able to remove the disc. Once it is loosed enough, the disc will come off very easily.

I hope this help. The rest of the steps described above are very well described I did not have any other trouble.

Thanks again!

little2576

Has anybody found a reliable source for stock rear caliper decals.... the surface of the rears are very small

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2.../Photo0060.jpg

pwrusr

iTrader: (10)

Help!!

Done this a couple times but I totally forgot to disengage the parking brake. So I started screwing over the rotors and when i was halfway and it wouldn't come off I remembered. Now after I place the rotors on and secure the caliper and pads the new rotors are bent inward toward the caliper and it is not flush and there isn't enough thread for the wheels




Did I damage something when I tried to remove 1 caliper with the ebrake on? But this is happening on both sides!? Help!!!