F-Sport Brakes vs. IS350 Brakes vs. Others
08-08-10, 07:44 AM
#31
Rookie
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: CO
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you want to avoid cracking and still retain the heat dissipation I would look into J-Hook rotors. I had a set on my M-Tech 540i and they worked great on the track with very little fade and no signs of damage after 6 months of serious abuse. Plus they were better than the ceramics I tried on other cars because they didn't need to be warmed up to work properly on the street The only issue is that I don't know if they fit the stock Lexus calipers and cosmetically they don't look as sharp as the drilled IMO.
http://www.gtrblog.com/2009/04/08/ap...r-nissan-gt-r/
http://www.gtrblog.com/2009/04/08/ap...r-nissan-gt-r/
08-08-10, 05:11 PM
#33
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
If you want to avoid cracking and still retain the heat dissipation I would look into J-Hook rotors. I had a set on my M-Tech 540i and they worked great on the track with very little fade and no signs of damage after 6 months of serious abuse. Plus they were better than the ceramics I tried on other cars because they didn't need to be warmed up to work properly on the street The only issue is that I don't know if they fit the stock Lexus calipers and cosmetically they don't look as sharp as the drilled IMO.
http://www.gtrblog.com/2009/04/08/ap...r-nissan-gt-r/
http://www.gtrblog.com/2009/04/08/ap...r-nissan-gt-r/
Sure they'd be great for a racer, but street? No so much.
02-13-13, 12:19 PM
#34
Driver School Candidate
does anyone have the stoptech crosdrilled rotors front and back they can email me a pic of with them applied to their car I think the mechanic i took my car to put them on backwards so id like to see what they loo like when they are applied the right way. here is my email thanks in advance as im at work and cant browse too long [email]dmolina799@gmail.com
02-21-13, 10:23 AM
#37
That would be physically impossible.
Changing your brakes can not make the car stop any shorter.
What you might be seeing is a difference in the TIRES between your car and a loaner. THAT can change braking distance.
The brakes don't stop the car, the tires do.
There's IS-F guys who take their cars to the track and see cracks in the Lexus drilled rotors developing after one weekend of hard use.
02-21-13, 10:43 AM
#38
Kurtz, out of curiousity and I know its the tires that really stop the car, but why does it FEEL like the braking is MUCH MORE responsive with my Fsport brakes. I mean now that its been months I no longer feel it as much, ofcourse because I am use to it. However when I FIRST installed them it was VERY noticeable.
02-25-13, 07:38 AM
#39
Kurtz, out of curiousity and I know its the tires that really stop the car, but why does it FEEL like the braking is MUCH MORE responsive with my Fsport brakes. I mean now that its been months I no longer feel it as much, ofcourse because I am use to it. However when I FIRST installed them it was VERY noticeable.
Read Pulp Friction- it points out almost every part of the braking system can be tuned for "feel" without changing how short the car actually stops.
http://www.scirocco.org/faq/brakes/p...n/pfpage1.html
Page 5 in particular-
Originally Posted by James Walker Jr
If changing braking system components does not provide increased stopping power or shorter stopping distances, why even consider changes in the first place? Why not just leave the brakes alone and buy new tires? Quite simply, making changes to your braking system can have a very real, very significant impact on four areas of brake system performance other than stopping distance:
1) Driver tuning: Modifying your brake system component sizing (brake pedal ratio, master cylinder piston diameter, caliper piston diameter, rotor diameter) can be performed to adjust the feel of the car to suit the driver's tastes. Some drivers prefer a high, hard pedal, while others prefer a longer stroke. In this regard, tuning your brakes is a lot like tuning your shocks: every driver likes something different, and there is no right answer within certain functional limits. These components can be adjusted in small steps to achieve a feel that the driver prefers.
That's what you're feeling.
Bigger, high friction brakes can change the feel of the system, especially at pedal applications than less full braking... just not how short the car can stop.
03-20-13, 05:54 AM
#40
Kurtz or anyone else who can chime in:
Ive read a lot of threads about slotted and drilled rotors and how they compare to blanks but I have a few quesitons.
I have no issue giving up some pad life in order to get drilled or slotted rotors, but will I have any issues using rotors that are drilled and slotted? Specifically the stop tech rotors?
I plan on upgrading to 350 brakes on my 250 so Im looking at different rotors at the moment. I have no plans to ever track the car and I use it as a daily driver. Will I have any issues with the rotor cracking? Im normally very easy on the brakes and dont abuse them.
Ive read a lot of threads about slotted and drilled rotors and how they compare to blanks but I have a few quesitons.
I have no issue giving up some pad life in order to get drilled or slotted rotors, but will I have any issues using rotors that are drilled and slotted? Specifically the stop tech rotors?
I plan on upgrading to 350 brakes on my 250 so Im looking at different rotors at the moment. I have no plans to ever track the car and I use it as a daily driver. Will I have any issues with the rotor cracking? Im normally very easy on the brakes and dont abuse them.
03-20-13, 06:23 AM
#41
I heard drilled rotors are more likely to crack than slotted unless it's made drilled not drilled after made. some Benz and Porsche models have made drilled OEM front rotors, but these arean't cheap.
blanks should be sufficient if you don't track. also it's a PITA to resurfaced a slotted or drilled rotor that's if the shop willing to do it. but if you are willing to change new rotors whenever you change your brake pads then it's fine.
blanks should be sufficient if you don't track. also it's a PITA to resurfaced a slotted or drilled rotor that's if the shop willing to do it. but if you are willing to change new rotors whenever you change your brake pads then it's fine.
03-20-13, 08:29 AM
#42
Blanks are best... but if you really want a non-blank "look" and don't mind 25% shorter pad life, then slotted rotors are just fine, functionally speaking.
Drilled on the other hand are indeed more prone to cracking... now, if you never drive it hard, you probably won't run into that... but it's still more likely than with non-drilled rotors.... (you're also giving up some rotor mass, which is a negative for fade resistance in a single panic stop, but again it's a difference you're unlikely to ever notice if you don't drive hard).
Drilled on the other hand are indeed more prone to cracking... now, if you never drive it hard, you probably won't run into that... but it's still more likely than with non-drilled rotors.... (you're also giving up some rotor mass, which is a negative for fade resistance in a single panic stop, but again it's a difference you're unlikely to ever notice if you don't drive hard).
03-20-13, 08:47 AM
#43
Blanks are best... but if you really want a non-blank "look" and don't mind 25% shorter pad life, then slotted rotors are just fine, functionally speaking.
Drilled on the other hand are indeed more prone to cracking... now, if you never drive it hard, you probably won't run into that... but it's still more likely than with non-drilled rotors.... (you're also giving up some rotor mass, which is a negative for fade resistance in a single panic stop, but again it's a difference you're unlikely to ever notice if you don't drive hard).
Drilled on the other hand are indeed more prone to cracking... now, if you never drive it hard, you probably won't run into that... but it's still more likely than with non-drilled rotors.... (you're also giving up some rotor mass, which is a negative for fade resistance in a single panic stop, but again it's a difference you're unlikely to ever notice if you don't drive hard).
Im aware that drilled are inferior to blanks but I am willing to give up some pad life for looks.
I normally drive pretty conseravtive and dont drive it hard as often as the normal person does. I really like the look of the stoptech drilled and slotted rotors, would those have less chances of cracking compared to rotors that are only drilled?
03-20-13, 01:24 PM
#44
Yeah Ive read a ton of your posts Kurtz, I bet your tired of repeating yourself haha.
Im aware that drilled are inferior to blanks but I am willing to give up some pad life for looks.
I normally drive pretty conseravtive and dont drive it hard as often as the normal person does. I really like the look of the stoptech drilled and slotted rotors, would those have less chances of cracking compared to rotors that are only drilled?
Im aware that drilled are inferior to blanks but I am willing to give up some pad life for looks.
I normally drive pretty conseravtive and dont drive it hard as often as the normal person does. I really like the look of the stoptech drilled and slotted rotors, would those have less chances of cracking compared to rotors that are only drilled?
Any drilled rotor will be susceptible to cracking from stress risers... If anything I'd expect slotting in addition to make it even more so, but it's not something I've ever seen anyone test...
Since you've already said you're ok spending more and accepting shorter service life for the looks I'd go with whatever look you like as long as it's from a name brand (Stoptech, Brembo, etc) rather than Joes Chinese Rotors on ebay.
Check the rotors regularly for the development of cracks around the drilled holes... in normal use you'll probably be fine, but even if they do develop it'll be somewhat gradual, not like the rotor goes from perfect to cracked in half on one stop, so as long as you keep an eye on em there's no safety issue, just a likely shorter service life.
03-20-13, 01:30 PM
#45
Any drilled rotor will be susceptible to cracking from stress risers... If anything I'd expect slotting in addition to make it even more so, but it's not something I've ever seen anyone test...
Since you've already said you're ok spending more and accepting shorter service life for the looks I'd go with whatever look you like as long as it's from a name brand (Stoptech, Brembo, etc) rather than Joes Chinese Rotors on ebay.
Check the rotors regularly for the development of cracks around the drilled holes... in normal use you'll probably be fine, but even if they do develop it'll be somewhat gradual, not like the rotor goes from perfect to cracked in half on one stop, so as long as you keep an eye on em there's no safety issue, just a likely shorter service life.
Since you've already said you're ok spending more and accepting shorter service life for the looks I'd go with whatever look you like as long as it's from a name brand (Stoptech, Brembo, etc) rather than Joes Chinese Rotors on ebay.
Check the rotors regularly for the development of cracks around the drilled holes... in normal use you'll probably be fine, but even if they do develop it'll be somewhat gradual, not like the rotor goes from perfect to cracked in half on one stop, so as long as you keep an eye on em there's no safety issue, just a likely shorter service life.
Thanks again for the info Kurtz
