skperformance

iTrader: (6)

I am making this thread because the previous thread that mentioned the idea was locked and the really good info in it removed .So this is just for informational purposes.

Ok we all know that RCA's are made by a few companies for 500-800 a set front and rear.

I ask is it possible ,as I am looking at them from a background of R&D in automotive aftermarket performance where i used to build and test fab parts to cross over to other applications .

To all the people who say it can't be done or its not possible or safe , don't bother posting unless you have a professional fabrication background in building as that type of thinking is what would still have the world getting to work in a horse drawn carriages.

RCA's are really simple parts , they are nothing more than a spacer.
The idea could even be improved by having multiple layers of metal with an appropriate nut and bolt section to hold it together.

The cost of making them would be about $50 a set for public prices (home depot types) $20 for wholesale accounts (brafasco or others you probably have not heard of).

What would be needed?
A block of aluminum , see what is available locally in different strengths. T3 , T4$ or T6 is more than enough for the application as it is not a shear or across pressure being exerted on the RCA . The pressure is being applied almost equally along its complete structure as it is only a spacer .

You would need to source some high tensile strength nuts and bolts. Choose a industrial company for these. The thread pitch is not detrimental but coarse
thread would be best.

You also need 2 aluminum saw blades ( one fast ,course), one slow (fine )and one drill bit.

You would need to use a few pieces of paper to mock up the blocks for clearance. Basically you are tracing the outline of the 2 mating surfaces for ball joint clearance and arm widths.
You cut out the sheet then trace the outline with a metal etcher pen .Drill your holes at each corner so you can make as straight as possible cuts . Then cut the shape out with a saw , a band saw truthfully would be best but a jigsaw with a vise could also be used as long as you are safe and know how to otherwise stick to a hand saw as aluminum is super soft to cut.

Drill the holes for the bolts to attach and bevel the edges.
Test fit , for clearance ,cut where needed and test fit again.

That is a quick idea of making them but it is not much more involved other than getting the materials as you are just making a spacer with only one point of pressure .

You could make them nice and anodize hem but who the hell can see them.

I would not suggest taking the easy way out and copying the shape of existing ones are they may have patents but since their are so many in the almost exact same design i can't see how youzealand being the first has not shut everyone else down for copying there design.

Another way is a fabricators special is to use a piece of wood to make the shape which is quick and easy to find. Take that shape to a local tool and die maker as they usually have a cad system and they can make a copy of them $100-150 then make them real easy on a water jet or cnc machine using a laser to cut it out. They will look nicer but provide the same purpose.

If you have any thoughts to add go right ahead but the main point is to give you guys an idea that it can and more than likely will be done sooner than later.

I am not making them so please don't PM me or ask. if some of you wanted to get together and make the mock up and then go to a local shop to get them made then this would make the cost drop to about $50 a pair .
You could then give out the cad file for cutting to others to then make them locally as well .

Good luck , happy modding and keep an open mind and anything is possible.

sam430

iTrader: (10)

I definitely agree that they should not have to be nice looking because you can not see them. The bolts have to be high tensile and high grade because your life depends on it. Class 12.9 bolts of the highest grade should be trusted... call ARP to supply four bolts. A washer is recommended. Must be torqued evenly.

People who've changed out their lower ball joints should take the used part to a machine shop and ask them to build a spacer for you. Please, if you do, post the cost here. My RCA were not one block... it is two independent blocks (round blocks..one for each bolt).

This RCA idea has been done and used by other cars also... I'll leave the speculation of why they haven't gone after the copycats out. But anyways, take the used LBJ assembly and ask them what it'll cost to create a spacer that sits on top of it. You don't need to know what an RCA or even seen one... just ask for a spacer at a certain thickness. We can discuss the bolts later.

This is for the front section.


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LOL... I have to add, you can get wheel spacers of high quality for close to 100 bux. I just bought a Billet Rear Member Braces for 100 bux just for the heck of it...an it has insane quality too.

macd7919

iTrader: (10)

Its not quite as simple as you make it sound. In order to center the bolt/spacer/ ball joint properly you need the have countersunk holes on each side with a steel sleeve bearing. Secondly the holes need to be bored with a perfectly flat bottom on the countersink or else you are going to have improperly seated bushings. Resulting in a misaligned RCA and balljoint, while it will still bolt together you will be introducing a friction point.

If you just use singular pieces of aluminum for each side you will have a much greater chance of failure in some sort of shear force if it were to occur. By utilizing a solid one piece design there is some resistance to shear provided by the RCA and the opposite mounting point. As far as cutting with a water jet I'm not sure it will be cutting 1" thick aluminum block effectively, I could be wrong on this as I haven't been to the local water jet facility recently.
To make a decent set of rcas that don't look like they came from your backyard you will need a cnc mill (haas for example). No one personally owns one so you will be also be paying Joe Blow to run your part on his $100,000 mill. It's not worth his time to program the machine to make 1 set of rcas so you are going to be paying to make it worth his time.

All I'm getting at is that if you take into consideration the details then it's not quite as simple as described above. It's not rocket science to design the part but it is a matter of enlisting someone with the proper facilities to make the part for you.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

do i see a guinea pig?

sam430

iTrader: (10)

If anyone explores it...and many have already done so, please chime in. Also, I have to agree that one solid block is safer than an individual block per bolt method. But, when torqued down with enough surface area on each block, there shouldn't be too much flex (There is no measurement on this..but I have it installed.)

saw this site http://www.emachineshop.com/

The rear I can believe that could be expensive. Not so sure about the front.

DASHOCKER

iTrader: (2)

I don't know of any RCA kits on the planet being sold for $50.00 or $100 bucks. Hell, even the BMW kits are priced in the same ball park as the two kits available for the Lexus GS.. In any event, good luck with your venture

Here is an example of a rear kit available for 2001 BMW 330's..

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Whenever you have anything between measuring and final cutting, you're introducing tolerance error. I'd simply measure out the balljoint and send those dimensions to a machine shop, rather than having to trace a couple of times.

1" thick of aluminum is nothing. Woodland Manufacturing cuts up to 8" thick of steel, aluminum, etc with their water jet system. I'm sure there are many other jet system out there that allows an upwards of 1" thickness.

macd7919

iTrader: (10)

As I said I hadn't been by the water jet in quite awhile and didn't remebed what they told me for capabilites. The other issue is that the RCA isn't just a flat piece all the way across as it needs to have an area for the spindle (for lack of a better word), so you could get the basic perimiter of the RCA you would still need to have a mill to remove material in order to clear the spindle.

It's similar to a supercharger bracket. It's not a difficult part to conceive, even fewer features than an Rca block, however it has to be perfectly made or else you are going to have all sorts of issues like belt wear, slipping etc.... As was the case with the LMS blowers. The RCA is a simple part at first glance but there is a considerable amount of work to make a good piece.

sam430

iTrader: (10)

Ok guys,

This site gives you free software to design. Here are some examples they have and the pricing. It's cool you can fab your own parts besides what we are discussing on this thread.

http://www.emachineshop.com/machine-...s/page573.html

01+ GS mirrors anyone?

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

CNC is the best way to go about it if you want precision. Too bad most shops wont allow low quantity unless you're okay with paying a high price for each set.

I had my RCAs made for less than $30, and it fits without problems, although I had to slightly modify it to clear the bump on balljoint. I modeled mine with the 98-00 balljoints and when I tried to put it on the current balljoint (01+ ?), it didn't fit. I had to use a grinder to give extra room, but other than that, the metal steel sleeves fit into the knuckle perfectly fine.

I have access to a CNC machine so I may be fabricating myself a new set soon since my current ones are only 0.5" thick.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

i noticed u slipped our mirrors in there sir haha

sam430

iTrader: (10)

I'm looking for 1" myself... my 3/4 works but 1/4 more inch would give me a nice height.

Yea, that site allow for small quantities... cad design for our mirrors would be nice. Just source or create a low profile signal piece. Then, find an LED for it.

skperformance

iTrader: (6)

Try and keep this to RCA's , thanks

Thank you to everyone so far for the information. I think the ball joint arm being used for mounting surfaces being an even better idea to tracing . All in all that is why i posted this to get better ideas of making them. I am no expert in all feilds but have a good general idea on what is needed.

Also there is a poll to vote on for you ideas as well.

So far we have one person who has already made a set on his own .
Also there is a shop that will allow one off creations .

Hmm , this seems to be getting somewhere.
I guess we should post pics of already made RCA's to compare them for more detailed veiw on what is we would be making .

So who makes them ?
Night pager ?
Exact?
Youzealand ?
anyone else ?

tom steele

i made some from 1/4 inch steel plate and grade 8 washers that fit perfect over the inserts to line the ball joint up then bought grade 11.9 bolt at a bolt and nut specialty store 12mm 1.25 pitch length depends on the size you make your rca i think i used 2 1/2 or 2/34 inch long then i welded the washers to the plate 10 bucks done 3/4 inch high just enough for my ls brakes

tom steele

i will get you pics tomarrow of mine to give you a idea