~DIY for e-brake shoe installation request~
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~DIY for e-brake shoe installation request~
Has anyone tackled this job on their own? Im about to attempt this real soon and was wondering if someone had a DIY for this just to make sure I dont mess up.
So far Ive changed the front calipers to 99' LS400 with lowww mileage. The rotors were replaced with a slotted setup and a pair of fresh pads to go along with it. I just replaced the rear rotors with a fresh set of pads also. I drained and filled the brake lines with new oil. The only things I need to replace now are the ebrake shoes to complete my brake overhaul.
Ive read on a few other threads that the LR shoes are different than the RR shoes. Ive got a new set of shoes on the way but when I ordered them they never asked me if I wanted the LR or RR shoes. I also understand that there are shoes on the front as well (which are identical).
How would you go about replacing both the LR, RR, and fronts?
So far Ive changed the front calipers to 99' LS400 with lowww mileage. The rotors were replaced with a slotted setup and a pair of fresh pads to go along with it. I just replaced the rear rotors with a fresh set of pads also. I drained and filled the brake lines with new oil. The only things I need to replace now are the ebrake shoes to complete my brake overhaul.
Ive read on a few other threads that the LR shoes are different than the RR shoes. Ive got a new set of shoes on the way but when I ordered them they never asked me if I wanted the LR or RR shoes. I also understand that there are shoes on the front as well (which are identical).
How would you go about replacing both the LR, RR, and fronts?
#3
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Here is info from alldata:
DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove rear disc brake assembly, do not let caliper hang by brake hose.
2. Remove rotor disc. If it cannot be removed easily, return shoe adjuster until wheel
turns freely,. then remove rotor.
3. Remove shoe return springs.
4. Remove front shoe as follows:
-Slide out front shoe, remove adjuster.
-Remove shoe strut with spring.
-Disconnect tension spring and remove shoe.
5. Remove rear shoe as follows:
-Slide out rear shoe and remove tension spring.
-Disconnect parking brake cable from shoe lever.
-Remove shoe hold-down cups, springs and pins.
ASSEMBLY
1. Apply high temperature grease to backing plate and adjuster.
2. Connect parking brake cable to parking brake lever.
3. Slide rear shoe between hold-down spring cup and backing plate.
4. Install front shoe as follows:
-Install rear shoe tension spring.
-Install front shoe to tension spring.
-Install adjuster between front and rear shoe.
-Install shoe strut with spring.
-Slide front shoe between hold-down spring cup and backing plate.
5. Install shoe return springs.
6. Install rotor disc and rear disc brake assembly.
DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove rear disc brake assembly, do not let caliper hang by brake hose.
2. Remove rotor disc. If it cannot be removed easily, return shoe adjuster until wheel
turns freely,. then remove rotor.
3. Remove shoe return springs.
4. Remove front shoe as follows:
-Slide out front shoe, remove adjuster.
-Remove shoe strut with spring.
-Disconnect tension spring and remove shoe.
5. Remove rear shoe as follows:
-Slide out rear shoe and remove tension spring.
-Disconnect parking brake cable from shoe lever.
-Remove shoe hold-down cups, springs and pins.
ASSEMBLY
1. Apply high temperature grease to backing plate and adjuster.
2. Connect parking brake cable to parking brake lever.
3. Slide rear shoe between hold-down spring cup and backing plate.
4. Install front shoe as follows:
-Install rear shoe tension spring.
-Install front shoe to tension spring.
-Install adjuster between front and rear shoe.
-Install shoe strut with spring.
-Slide front shoe between hold-down spring cup and backing plate.
5. Install shoe return springs.
6. Install rotor disc and rear disc brake assembly.
#4
I was planning on replacing mine on the 25th, along with my moms PAIN IN THE A$$ heater core on her towncar, so if you want to wait I can post pics of the process. It is pretty straightforward, just a little quirky. Helps to have a second person too.
#5
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Im a day late. I started last night. I was only able to get one side done and it took me a couple hours. My finger tips still hurt but I was probably doing it the hard way. I'll print this set of directions out and hope to have the other side done in less than an hour.
I drove my car out of my garage with only one side finished. When I pulled the e-brake I noticed that the "BRAKE" light was not lighting up on the cluster. Could it be because the other side is on a completely worn pair of shoes? I know I didnt mess with the sensor.
I drove my car out of my garage with only one side finished. When I pulled the e-brake I noticed that the "BRAKE" light was not lighting up on the cluster. Could it be because the other side is on a completely worn pair of shoes? I know I didnt mess with the sensor.
#6
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Or if there is low brake fluid.
But for why its not coming on, not certain at this moment, was the car on? lol
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I checked it out. Coincidently the little bulb in the cluster that lights up the "brake" light burnt out. It wont even light up with the key in the "ON" position. But yeah, one side took me a couple hours. After going through the info from All Data that The Mole had provided it had only taken me about 30 mins. Thanks guys!
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#8
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doing the rear shoes is not bad once you do it once. its the same concept on most cars that have drum e-brakes.
some kid paid me to replace 3 wheel studs on his evo. that requires taking off the e-brake shoes too. i had it all apart in 15 mins and the new studs in. total job took 30 mins including smoke brake and tutoring him. he paid 75 bucks. then complained i charged him too much. i told him he paid for the lesson and not the job
btw our cars dont have emergency brakes. it is a parking brake. thats all it is good for
some kid paid me to replace 3 wheel studs on his evo. that requires taking off the e-brake shoes too. i had it all apart in 15 mins and the new studs in. total job took 30 mins including smoke brake and tutoring him. he paid 75 bucks. then complained i charged him too much. i told him he paid for the lesson and not the job
btw our cars dont have emergency brakes. it is a parking brake. thats all it is good for
#9
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You're a sav! $75 for a 30 min job? Like a champ.
Ive got a stud I have to replace on the rear also. I probably should have done that while the shoes were out. Back to square one for one side.
Ive got a stud I have to replace on the rear also. I probably should have done that while the shoes were out. Back to square one for one side.
#10
Save time when doing rear studs!!!
If you have the rotor off and are looking at the hub and ebrake stuff rotate the stud you want to remove to the upper left at about 10-11 o'clock position.
There is space in the ebrake assembly to knock the studs out just be careful with them as its easy to drop them behind the ebrake stuff you can wiggle them out if you drop them but its kinda a ***** if you are careful its not too hard.
To install them rotate the hub so the hole is at that same 10-11 o'clock position and slip the stud in behind the hub and into the hole. Put 4-5 of the smallest washers that will fit (~12mm) on the stud install a lug nut that you do not intend to use (it will become hot and worn via this process) and tighten the lug with a very strong impact wrench. The lug will push aginst the washers and pull the stud into the hub.
#12
Lexus Champion
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I was researching a brake issue im having and ran across this thread. You don't have to take the e-brake shoes off to change the studs!!
If you have the rotor off and are looking at the hub and ebrake stuff rotate the stud you want to remove to the upper left at about 10-11 o'clock position.
There is space in the ebrake assembly to knock the studs out just be careful with them as its easy to drop them behind the ebrake stuff you can wiggle them out if you drop them but its kinda a ***** if you are careful its not too hard.
To install them rotate the hub so the hole is at that same 10-11 o'clock position and slip the stud in behind the hub and into the hole. Put 4-5 of the smallest washers that will fit (~12mm) on the stud install a lug nut that you do not intend to use (it will become hot and worn via this process) and tighten the lug with a very strong impact wrench. The lug will push aginst the washers and pull the stud into the hub.
If you have the rotor off and are looking at the hub and ebrake stuff rotate the stud you want to remove to the upper left at about 10-11 o'clock position.
There is space in the ebrake assembly to knock the studs out just be careful with them as its easy to drop them behind the ebrake stuff you can wiggle them out if you drop them but its kinda a ***** if you are careful its not too hard.
To install them rotate the hub so the hole is at that same 10-11 o'clock position and slip the stud in behind the hub and into the hole. Put 4-5 of the smallest washers that will fit (~12mm) on the stud install a lug nut that you do not intend to use (it will become hot and worn via this process) and tighten the lug with a very strong impact wrench. The lug will push aginst the washers and pull the stud into the hub.
i have an extra set in good shape. PM me if interested.
#13
Ive done it both ways. Its not faster to remove the brake shoes. If you drop a stud you can get it out with your fingers without removing any parts. I had to get 2 out that way just takes a few seconds. Also most ppl are not going to have the tool to remove the spring/pin that hold the pad on. If you have to improvise with a socket or pliers its way faster not to take them off.
#14
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Ive done it both ways. Its not faster to remove the brake shoes. If you drop a stud you can get it out with your fingers without removing any parts. I had to get 2 out that way just takes a few seconds. Also most ppl are not going to have the tool to remove the spring/pin that hold the pad on. If you have to improvise with a socket or pliers its way faster not to take them off.
either way it doesnt matter. there are dozen ways to skin a cat
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