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Brake Bleeding Sequence/Brake Fluid

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Old 03-01-09, 05:25 PM
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Default Brake Bleeding Sequence/Brake Fluid

Anyone know the correct sequence to bleed brakes? I know farthest away from the master cylinder... Is that passenger rear? Then which one?

Also, anyone have some suggestions on a high quality brake fluid?
Old 03-01-09, 05:27 PM
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eric_r_ho
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90% of the time you go FURTHEST away from the master cylinder first and you bleed it for the LONGEST time too..do it for extra cycles because it has the longest brake line travel. The furthest from our maser cylinder would be passenger rear, yes. And just go w/ the Factory Toyota Brake fluid..nothing wrong w/ that. But when you install the big brake kit that you're getting I would do a complete flush and put some good stuff in there, this is what you want,
Old 03-01-09, 06:32 PM
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^^ Any idea of where to get it??
Old 03-01-09, 07:49 PM
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I've seen them sell it at Honda dealerships and of course speed shops. But you shouldn't pay more than $15 a bottle..
Old 03-02-09, 01:54 AM
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If you're really serious, there's only one choice - Castrol SRF. Everything else is wannabe. Best of the cheap fluid is Ford factory brake fluid, ask anyone who tracks a car.

Great brake fluid discussion here including brand names and real world performance.

Last edited by lobuxracer; 03-02-09 at 02:25 AM.
Old 03-02-09, 04:10 AM
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Thanks Lobu... Any idea on where to pick that up or how expensive it is?

Anyone know how much the whole system holds?
Old 03-02-09, 11:31 PM
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I'd run either the Brembo or the Endless fluids. It's interesting reading about the "violent dropoff" in the SRF fluid's boiling point once it starts to absorb water (which all racing fluids do).

You'll need approximately 1500 ml (three of the small Motul bottles pictured above) for a full system flush. Best (and cheapest) place to find this stuff is teh interweb.

Javier
Old 03-03-09, 03:37 PM
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sinister2c
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I just bled the the lines in a circle about 3 times each. Wasn't sure which way to start but its quick anyway, just open the valve with a clear line and pump it into the bottom of an empty bottle until new fluid flows with not bubbles.
Old 03-22-09, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by sinister2c
I just bled the the lines in a circle about 3 times each. Wasn't sure which way to start but its quick anyway, just open the valve with a clear line and pump it into the bottom of an empty bottle until new fluid flows with not bubbles.
how many bottles you use in this way?
Old 03-24-09, 12:58 PM
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i had a quart but only used like half of it.
Old 03-24-09, 01:06 PM
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kikaida
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i bleed the brakes by passenger rear, driver rear, passenger then driver. Also if you can get those speed nipples, it would definitely make your job easier.
Old 04-01-09, 12:40 AM
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How many of these Toyota 12 oz fluid bottles needed for a DIY brake fluid change for a 350?

http://www.sewellpartsonline.com/par...id=95910&nbc=Y
Old 04-01-09, 11:48 AM
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I need to bleed my system too
Old 04-26-09, 09:53 AM
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shizmd
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i am trying to bleed my is350 brakes and i installed earl's bleeder. my problem is noticing air in the line. here's what i did: i pumped the brakes a few times while engine is off and turned on ignition. then i unscrewed the one way brake bleeder valve(earl's) less than 1 turn and started pumping the brakes until the fluid changes color. once i'm done, i turned off engine and as i go to tighten the earl valve, i noticed lots of air bubbles coming out of bleeder valve.

1> should the engine be off or on to properly bleed?
i turned engine on as pedal is hard when engine is off and hardly any fluid would come out with each pedal press.

2> Where's all this air coming from? Am i missing something?
the air bubbles is only noticed as engine is off. As i'm pumping the brakes with engine on and fluid gushing out, there was no air in the tubing.

Thanks for all your input.
Old 04-26-09, 12:22 PM
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The car should be off when pumping your brakes.

Last edited by kikaida; 04-27-09 at 09:20 PM.
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