Replacing Power Brake Booster...
12-20-08, 11:45 AM
#1
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Replacing Power Brake Booster...
Hey CL,
I have searched, checked the vacuum lines, the master cylinder, brake fluid level, but I still have no power brakes. The pedal is rock hard but unlike others, I didn't spook and am totally able to use the brakes regardless of loss of assist. The presence of vaccum pressure makes no differnce to pedal feel. (I troubleshot by plugging line and stomping on brakes.)
I have the new booster, but haven't been able to find any information on replacing it. Does anyone have advice regarding the replacement of the booster? Are any new seals/gaskets needed? How does everything line up? Is removing all lines from master cylinder truly necessary for checking pedal travel?
I have a 95 DPW SC400 and the new part is a reman A1-Cardone unit from RockAuto.
Thanks for any advice. =)
I have searched, checked the vacuum lines, the master cylinder, brake fluid level, but I still have no power brakes. The pedal is rock hard but unlike others, I didn't spook and am totally able to use the brakes regardless of loss of assist. The presence of vaccum pressure makes no differnce to pedal feel. (I troubleshot by plugging line and stomping on brakes.)
I have the new booster, but haven't been able to find any information on replacing it. Does anyone have advice regarding the replacement of the booster? Are any new seals/gaskets needed? How does everything line up? Is removing all lines from master cylinder truly necessary for checking pedal travel?
I have a 95 DPW SC400 and the new part is a reman A1-Cardone unit from RockAuto.
Thanks for any advice. =)
03-21-09, 04:11 PM
#4
Theres a gasket between the master and booster. You can make this one yourself using some gasket material from autozone or wherever.
Theres a factory tool to adjust the rod that pushes on the master cylinder, but what I'd do is just make sure your new rod is adjusted to about the same distance as the old rod is. Compare both boosters and maybe measure to see if theres any difference in the length of the shaft coming out the rear of the new booster. If not, you should be able to adjust it to the same length as the old one and your done.
1.suck all the fluid out of the master(i use a mityvac pump. Just get the majority out, no big deal)
2.disconnect master lines using a 10mm LINE WRENCH
3.remove 2 or 3 bolts holding master to booster
4.remove master, set aside
5.remove small dash undercover so you can get better view of under the dash area
6.4 bolts hold the boosters in, and also a clevis pin and a spring..both really easy to remove
7.you will have to undo a couple different 10mm bolts holding a couple computer boxes to brackets so you can slightly move them to get at all 4 booster bolts
8.install is reverse, pretty easy actually.
9.bleed the master using a blue plastic bleeder fitting from an autopart store ,'bleeder kit $7'
10.run a vacumm line from that fitting screwed into the master up into the master reservoir, and slowly depress brake pedal over and over to push fluid from inside the master up into the reservoir where it will escape. Do this until you dont see air bubbles.
heres an example of how to bleed the master. Notice the blue fitting? Do this at both master cylinder holes.
yes my fluid is blue..it's the 2nd best brake fluid on earth, next to Endless F1 racing fluid.
Theres a factory tool to adjust the rod that pushes on the master cylinder, but what I'd do is just make sure your new rod is adjusted to about the same distance as the old rod is. Compare both boosters and maybe measure to see if theres any difference in the length of the shaft coming out the rear of the new booster. If not, you should be able to adjust it to the same length as the old one and your done.
1.suck all the fluid out of the master(i use a mityvac pump. Just get the majority out, no big deal)
2.disconnect master lines using a 10mm LINE WRENCH
3.remove 2 or 3 bolts holding master to booster
4.remove master, set aside
5.remove small dash undercover so you can get better view of under the dash area
6.4 bolts hold the boosters in, and also a clevis pin and a spring..both really easy to remove
7.you will have to undo a couple different 10mm bolts holding a couple computer boxes to brackets so you can slightly move them to get at all 4 booster bolts
8.install is reverse, pretty easy actually.
9.bleed the master using a blue plastic bleeder fitting from an autopart store ,'bleeder kit $7'
10.run a vacumm line from that fitting screwed into the master up into the master reservoir, and slowly depress brake pedal over and over to push fluid from inside the master up into the reservoir where it will escape. Do this until you dont see air bubbles.
heres an example of how to bleed the master. Notice the blue fitting? Do this at both master cylinder holes.
yes my fluid is blue..it's the 2nd best brake fluid on earth, next to Endless F1 racing fluid.
Last edited by RyanV; 03-22-09 at 09:02 AM.
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