CCC-TT

iTrader: (1)

After the LS400 brake swap i bled the brakes twice, both times after i finished, the pedal would go the floor and there was almost no braking power. So today i took it to the local shop where they bled the brakes... in the end, with the same result. after talking to them and searching around the forums, ive come to the conclusion that the brake master cylinder needs to be replaced. I've never done this before and i'm not really sure how hard it's going to be, do you guys have any input or suggestions before i try and tackle this in the driveway?

5sp_jzz30

iTrader: (2)

easy as pie....mmmm pie...

ive done it on so many different cars. get the master cylinder, prime it, install and rebleed.

should take more then 1.5 hours for whole job including bleeding.

ps get a friend to pump cuz thats the harder job...and a case of cold beer

CCC-TT

iTrader: (1)

Alright, thanks bro. How do i go about priming it?

If i were to buy a brake master cylinder for an SC with out traction control (my 96 sc has TRAC) what issues, other than losing TRAC, would i run into?

VGnomore

iTrader: (1)

Are you sure that you dont have your calipers flipped and have the bleeders on the bottom? I know it sounds like common sense but it is the small things we miss.

CCC-TT

iTrader: (1)

i'm sure; bled the brakes twice myself, then brought it to the car shop for them to double check my work and try it themselves... didnt work, the master cylinder is shot, but luckily i just found one for $100... I'm happy lol

SHOLEXMAN

Sup bobby its Sean. Replacing the master cylinder shouldn't be that big of a deal. Just get a line wrench and take the lines off of the master cylinder. I wouldn't buy a used master cylinder from a yard or someone on here. Get a remanned one. The remanned ones come with a bleeder kit that you can use. To bleed it on the bench you might want to put it in a vice first. Put both of the bleeders on the side and tighten them both down so no fluid comes out. Then put the old brake fluid reservoir on top and fill with brake fluid. Loosen one bleeder and push on the brake piston on the back. Then tighten up so no air gets inside. Do it with the other bleeder till the air is out. once the air is out leave the bleeders on until you need to put the lines on. Take the bleeders off as quickly as possible and put the lines in. You will have to bleed the system out again. Sorry to tell you that. Have somebody help you bleed the calipers cause it is a lot quicker. PM me or call me if you need help later man.

neodymium

Is there any difference between bench bleeding and just bleeding with the cyliner installed on the car? It's the same thing right?

SHOLEXMAN

No it is NOT the same thing. Bench bleeding is with the master brake cylinder out of the car on a bench in a vise usually and taking the air out with plastic bleeders. That is if you get a remanned master brake cylinder. Bleeding with it installed on the car would take forever! There would be a lot of air in the system if you just hooked it up without fluid and just filled it up. Either way it is best if you have 2 people doing this. Saves so much time. Do it on the bench first install it and then bleed the whole system threw the calipers. Then you should be good.

CCC-TT

iTrader: (1)

well I installed the master cylinder yesterday, took no time at all. I only bled everything through the calipers, i guess i'll have to re-do the way youre telling me, Sean, but i might need some help with that when i get back to clearwater cause i'm not sure i understand. But at the same time I installed Supra TT rears that i got ahold of as an even trade for my stock rears!!!!

neodymium

Let me clarify what I actually did...I installed the master cylinder, then filled and bled it before attaching the front and rear lines. Isn't this method basically a bench bleed?
Thanks

CCC-TT

iTrader: (1)

How do you bleed the cylinder itself? If anyone has pics, it would help me out alot.

5sp_jzz30

iTrader: (2)

seriously dude?

i know this forum is nice and good but you cant expect to find everything lexus related on here. plus this procedure is the same for all vehicles.

google gave a few good links:

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...nch/index.html

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...hbleeding.html

GL

neodymium

SHOLEXMAN, after reading this http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...nch/index.html I now see that the variable between using a vice to bench bleed and a vehicle is that the cylinder is not level in the car so the bleed will probably not be that great.

CCC-TT

iTrader: (1)

thats why I'm asking, once someone posts the info, it will then be on the forums and that much easier for anyone else down the line... adding to the knowlege database on CL

Anyways, I think if i bleed it from the calipers a few more times and flush the whole system out, I should be ok and not have to worry about this bench bleeding process. The car stops good now, after a few more times bleeding everything i think it'll be done. I'll update when this happens

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

When I bench bled a master cylinder, It took quite a lot of pumps just to get the air out. For all we know, the air could still be in your line near the master cylinder. Indeed do it a few more times just incase.

At least it's better than before!