shadysprin

I need to get the rotor off of this 98 GS300. I can't seem to get it to budge. Do I need to remove the nut "A" ? i don't think so but??
Also, anyone have experience replacing the studs? Do I have enough room behind the stud to pop it off and slide a new one back in? Without removing hub?
Also, the 2 threaded holes are way smaller than the caliper bolts. Anyone know what size holes these are? "B"

Thanks

gsCrazy

iTrader: (1)

what a bummer! i just had this happen to me (broke a stud on the rear wheel) and i brought it to my mechanic to fix. from what i recall you do not have to remove that night. all my guy did was spray wd-40 into where the studs are and into where arrow A is pointing. he let it sit for a minute then took a heavy hammer and started hammering in between the studs close to the edge of the rotor hat. after a good half a dozen whacks, the rotor was able to slide right out.

hope that helps.

gsCrazy

iTrader: (1)

also, if you have someone help you pull the drum brake pads apart you will have enough room to put the stud in without removing the drum brake pad and its components. you will however, need a nut that is larger than the stud and one that fits perfect on the stud along with an air gun. place the loose nut on the new stud that you just pushed through first and then place the nut that fits on the stud on. after that tighten the nut (the one that fits on the stud) until the stud is pulled all the way into the hole it belongs in. unscrew the nut and you're done!

good luck.

shadysprin

Thanks GsCrazy.
It's been painful. At first it was a simple change the pads and turn the rotors. Then the stud snapped off taking off the lugs off that felt like 200ft-lbs. And sure enough, the last one snaps off. freaken a!
Then I figured I could just take the caliper off and slide the rotor off. But the rotor is not budging. So I'm staring at this thing wondering if that big ole nut needs to come off too?

Anyway, I'll try the wd40 thing and get a couple of metric bolts to thread into the rotor to see if I can slowly break it loose, and slide it off.

And if that don't work, I guess 4 lug nuts are enough

Thanks for the tips

Blanco

iTrader: (8)

To answer your question, no the big nut does not need to come off to remove rotor. I would suggest first trying some PB Blaster instead of WD-40. WD stands for "water displacement" and isn't really designed for this situation, but hey if it works for you, cool beans. You want a penetrating oil, like Liquid Wrench. I've heard PB Blaster is the best at that. Spray generously in all the holes on the rotor, and around the studs. Let sit for an hour or so. You'll probably want to hit with a hammer a few times. If that doesn't work, you'll probably need to get a couple of high strength bolts that fit the "b" holes on the rotor. If you do a search here on CL, you can probably find what size you need. Someone posted about it a while back.

That's what I ended up doing. I went to Lowes and bought a couple of bolts, threaded them with a ratchet, alternating between them, some elbow grease and a few minutes later, viola!

My memory is a bit vague, but I believe the studs are attached to a hub behind the rotor. To remove it you might have to remove nut A, but I think there's enough room once the rotors off, to just pop out the bad stud without removing the hub.

BTW, Autzone stocks PBblaster. Good Luck.

Debonair

From the looks of that rotor it appears you went metal to metal on it? If that is the case and you will be replacing it go get yourself a BIG hammer. Start hitting that rotor from the backside outward. Just keep working your way around it. It will give. You can hit rotors a lot harder than you think.

ALWAYS wear safety goggles and be careful. My inner layer says "Take my advise at your own risk."

shadysprin

Just to close this thread out, here's what I did to successfully get the rear wheel rotor (disk) off the hub. (take off wheel and brake caliper first )

Thanks to the suggestions above, I sprayed PB Blaster on the "A" and "B" points shown on the picture from first post. No too much because it will run down the back and get on the drum pads on the inside. Let it sit about 10 minutes, spray some more and tap all over with hammer.

Then go to Lowes or Home depot and get two 8mm metric bolts that have a pitch of 1.25 and carefully alternate half turns between both bolts until rotor is loose. Then slide off.


Don't spray too much PB Plaster in because it gathers inside and can get all over the pads and surface the pads run on.



To replace the stud, spray some PB Blaster on the stud, and make some quick sharp blows on the broken stud inward. The stud slides out the back. Once stud come out, you may need to put the car in neutral and turn the wheel until you have clearance to get the stud out and insert a new one back in.

To get the stud seated properly, go to an auto parts store and buy some 12mm - 1.50 open ended lug nuts. Or just one is enough. And a stack of washers.

Insert the stud in, then put a couple washers on and follow with the lug nut. I used an impact wrench on a low torque setting and tightened the lug nut until the back of stud was seated like the other ones were.

Then take off lug nut and washers and you're done.

Put rotor back on, then caliper, then wheel.

Hope this helps someone.