shomann

Weekend before last I hunkered down with my pile of parts to upgrade my 2002 GS430. My upgrade consisted of new tie-rod ends, new ball-joints, Tein CS coil-overs, Daizen bushings for everything and going from the stock 16" rims, to the newer 06-07 18" alloys. I still have a few issues I am chasing before i unveil it before the masses here at CL, but I thought I might share a few observations with everyone.

Parts List:

Daizen Front Control Arm Bushing Set - G2-2002A
Daizen Steering Rack Bushing Kit - G2-2030
Daizen Sway Bar Bushing Kit - G2-2008

OEM Toyota/Lexus Ball-Joint Set (Sewell)* - 43340-39415-02
OEM Toyota/Lexus Tie-Rod End Set (Sewell)* - 45460-59015-02

Lexus OEM Engine Mounts, Front (called insulators, you need 2) - 12361-50111
Lexus OEM Engine Mount, Rear (also refered to as the transmission mount, you need 1) - 12371-50070

Tein CS v.2 Coilover Set - GST76-KUSS3

* The part numbers for these sets are probably only applicable to the Sewell parts system. The ball joints look to only be available through them as a set, the individual numbers for the tie rod ends are:

Lexus OEM Tie Rod Assembly RH - 45460-59015
Lexus OEM Tie Rod Assembly LH - 45470-59015



Ball-joints and Tie Rod Ends:
As several DIY guides here point out, this job is simple for anyone comfortable in the garage and I would say at least approachable if you are comfortable taking your time and getting your hands dirty. One thing to note is that when you go to remove the tie-rod end it can be tricky to break the 19mm bolt free. The guides here on CL suggest using opposing force with a 14mm wrench on the steering rack shaft, but there is a better way. Isolate the tie rod end in a heavy vise and then you can apply pressure on the 19mm nut. Easy-breezy after that. My joints were absolutely shot at 104k - with fluid leaking out of them.

Daizen control arm bushings:
There is at least one guide out on the web that shows a DIY method for doing the Daizen control arm bushings in a common home garage. I want to stress here that may be possible, but save yourself a TON of headache and get a mechanic or machine shop to press the OEM bushings out and at least for the big bushings (lower control arm #2) have them press them in. I found a local shop that did it for $35 because I already had the arms off the car. I used a ton of Daizen grease on every bushing and no squeaking. As most folks on here agree, I left the OEM lower control arm #1 bushings in place - and they looked fine.

Daizen Steering Rack bushings:
Ugh. I had more problems with this than I thought I would. I was able to use the Pittman arm puller (used for the ball joints) for one of the smaller driver-side bushings (the lower one) but I had to use a c-clamp and socket to press out the upper. A side note is that during this procedure I broke the upper passenger side bolt that holds the rack to my car - I am still waiting to hear what that is going to take to fix.

Daizen Sway bar bushings:
The front sway bar bushings are cake and take 10 minutes on the outside. The back bushings are a bit tougher. I am not sure how Daizen intended these to go on the car, but I can't see them slipping over each end (the bar is flatter and wider on the ends). Therefore, again based on a suggestion from here, I recommend you slice each bushing long ways. Then they are able to slip over the bar much like the front bushings.

Tein CS coilovers:
Quality parts all the way. This job isn't too bad, and if you are having any thought of doing this upgrade, I suggest you save some time and do it in conjunction with the bushing/ball-joint/tie-rod upgrade. Everything on the front of the car is totally exposed making the install of the new Teins here very simple. The rears require you to remove most of the trunk lining , but I was able to get them swapped without even taking the rear brake assembly off. Take care to follow the instructions on dampening and ride height. The driver side front of the car tends to be a bit lower to the eye, just raise/lower to your taste. I am quite impressed with the ride considering the drop. Still haven't gotten a good chance to push them (due to the aforementioned steering rack bolt).

All in all it was a brutal 4 days (Saturday - Tues; lucky I am freelance). I had a friend helping part of the time and it they were still long days that ended around midnight. If you had a rack and air tools (i.e. your own pro garage or a mechanic friend) that time would be cut in half. I can't stress enough that the bushings install screams out for professional help. I got EXTREMELY lucky in finding a capable person with the front of my car completely disable with no where to go but forward.

P.S. Sorry there are no pics - that idea got lost in the shuffle. Pics to follow of the result, ut honestly, just look at sleeper408's ride - that's what I am shooting for in the end.

strapp44

Awesome man. I wish I had the space for a job like that.

Good luck with the steering rack bushings.

I'm planning to do the same thing too. I have the Daizen Bushings for the front and one set for the rear.

Getting the clunking noise up front so while I'm at it might as well replace the lower ball joint with OEM.

I also need new inner and outer Tie Rod ends on the left. I don't know where I can find those.

Megan Coilovers as well.

shomann

I got all my parts through Sewell Lexus out of Dallas. Truly excellent service and they have a 10% discount for CL members. Aside from being a customer, I have no affiliation with them.

Red Bully

iTrader: (3)

you have to cut the rear sway bar bushings the should have been cut like the front i had the same problem

MJImport

iTrader: (1)

I tried doing this last weekend but p*ssied out and just installed clear markers and LED tails.
The front/rear struts are not in tension if the car is on jacks right? you just unbolt and remove?
I have Tein SS and EDFC I still need to install.

shomann

Yes, the struts aren't under tension per se, but they still may need to be "coaxed" to get out. I would recommend you have a jack on hand to manipulate the height of the lower control arm if you need.

If you have any big concerns, there is no shame in having this done by a professional - I would rate the task a 5 or 6 on the difficulty scale.

Good luck!

MJImport

iTrader: (1)

difficulty scale being 1 to 10? haha, that's embarrassing for me then, all that money for engineering school gone to waste I guess, LOL
Now I have to redeem myself.

BTW, I have heard a few people mentioning upgrading their upper mounts when using coilovers, is this necessary or just for "street tuners"?

shomann

Well, I have had experience with strut removal before. Replacing the springs on existing struts is what I would group in the hard category

Again though, it can look daunting, but it's mostly just normal bolts. Have a pitman arm puller handy in case you need to dissemble the hub (mine was because of the tie rod end swap).

Pretty sure the upper mount is needed for those that want more adjustment options and they aren't necessary for every install.

eyecon7

iTrader: (2)

Where did you purchase your Ball Joints From.. I seen one made by Karlyn, OES, and theres Also OEM which is the most expensive.. I don't know which one to get..

shomann

I purchased the OEM Toyota/Lexus ones through Sewell.

Check the first posts for a parts list (I just added it today)

shomann

BTW, I just got my car back from the mechanic and in addition to fixing my screw-up with the steering rack bolt, I had them replace my engine mounts (I was just too leery of messing around with the suspending the engine in the space I have to work with). So, happy day I am back driving my Lex.

My first impressions are that the car is MUCH tighter, but it did lose a degree of smoothness (well I dropped it like hot rock and decreased the tire sidewall by a large margin - what did I expect?). Overall I am definitely pleased with the appearance and can learn to live with the change in the car's handling "attitude"