EpixINC

okay this is by far the simplest job i have ever done.
tools you need:
Ball Joint Fork
22 MM open end wrench
19 MM open end wrench
14 MM open end wrench
metric hex set
needle nose pliers

OKay start with Remove wheel. it is preferable to have the vehicle on a lift cuz u gotta get up underneath it.
once the wheel is off, start removing nuts. the ones i have circled.

EpixINC

you then remove the cotter pin and ball joint castle nut. use the ball joint fork and a Big Fu$%in Hammer and break that ball joint loose. you also remove the shock bolt and the sway arm link nut.

EpixINC

then once u got the long bolts out that hook the arm to the frame(2) and the shock bolt, and the ball joint and the sway arm link loose. just PULL it comes right out... u might have to give the upper a small push to slide it out.

EpixINC

now take the new arm and push it up into place and slide the two bolts and finger tighten the nuts. this should allow it to swing freely.

EpixINC

now swing the arm up into place and put the ball joint through the knuckle and finger tighten the castle nut. attach the shock to the top of the a-arm and attach the sway arm link. finger tighten everything.

EpixINC

once everything is in place start tightening everything down nice and tight. i started at the ball joint and then the sway arm then the shock then the two arm to frame nuts. once its all tight, put the cotter pin back in the castle nut, and give the arm a pull downwards make sure u get no clunking or shaking. then you are pretty much done. put ur wheel back on and you are rolling.

EpixINC

this is why i replaced the arm i assumed it was the reason that i have the clunking and the hard sound whenever i run over something on the left side, and at speed it gets really shaky. reallly shaky. dont know what it is though cuz i still got the high speed shake and the rattle sound from the left front when i run over something like a city reflector on the street or something. any ideas?

camberSC

iTrader: (17)

Great job. Now for an alignment?

EpixINC

yup. but why would it need an alignment? nothing changed about the steering, so why the need for the alignment?

camberSC

iTrader: (17)

Oh, it was a question, since the arms are where the camber gets adjusted from. But again I wouldn't know since I just got my SC a week ago and I've been trying to read everything on here. Great job again.

5sp_jzz30

iTrader: (2)

you need an alignment unless you marked the bolts and installed them exactly how they came off.

alignment is not just about steering aka toe.

from the lower control arm you also adjust camber and caster.

stevechumo

iTrader: (5)

I agree. Even if you mark the old arms or the crossmember bar against the chassis, the new arms still have a different angle/degrees from the old arms because they have tight bushings & balljoints. When you take out the crossmember bar, the crossmember bar also has some flexible angles.

The clunking noise might be from the upper arms, lower arms, rack opinion, swaybar bushings, tie rods, struts & springs...etc.

97-SC300

iTrader: (17)

Sticky this, this thread will help lots of people on here. great DIY BTW.

TheMole

iTrader: (13)

Great DIY and agreed that you need an alignment. Mine was all out of whack after I had the arms replaced.

Touge

iTrader: (4)

Great write up!