Do I need a camber kit???
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Do I need a camber kit???
Just got back from a trip to Discount Tire Company. Another $600.00 down the drain!!!
Had a shop install my "new" L-tuned goodies I purchased from peeps off Club Lexus about a 1 yr 1/2 ago (L-tuned struts and springs, stainless steel exhaust, and ground effects). Afterwards I took it to local Lexus dealership for a 4 wheel alignment, explaining to them what I had just installed. After the alignment the service tech explained that they had to max the "camber" adjustment but the alignment was within factory specs.
The tires had worn through the steel belts on the inside of the tires on 2 of the 4. The other 2 were worn to the steel belts. My guess is I had the tires for about 1 1/2 and maybe 12,000- 15,000 miles max maybe less.
Does Lexus or Toyota make a "camber kit"? Do I need a camber kit to get additional adjustment for proper alignment and tire wear? I really love the factory equipment, thats why I choose "L-tuned".
Please help!!!!
Had a shop install my "new" L-tuned goodies I purchased from peeps off Club Lexus about a 1 yr 1/2 ago (L-tuned struts and springs, stainless steel exhaust, and ground effects). Afterwards I took it to local Lexus dealership for a 4 wheel alignment, explaining to them what I had just installed. After the alignment the service tech explained that they had to max the "camber" adjustment but the alignment was within factory specs.
The tires had worn through the steel belts on the inside of the tires on 2 of the 4. The other 2 were worn to the steel belts. My guess is I had the tires for about 1 1/2 and maybe 12,000- 15,000 miles max maybe less.
Does Lexus or Toyota make a "camber kit"? Do I need a camber kit to get additional adjustment for proper alignment and tire wear? I really love the factory equipment, thats why I choose "L-tuned".
Please help!!!!
#2
Rookie
iTrader: (15)
You do not need a camber kit for the L-tuned springs. The factory adjustment is enough to get the camber within factory spec. As long as you're within spec, who cares if the OEM camber adjustment is maxed out or not. Only worry when you maxed out your camber adj, while still having camber out of spec
#3
Driver
Thread Starter
Some people replied to a thread I posted 1 1/2 yr ago about this issue saying "there is no camber kit available for the GS" and that I "don't need a camber kit with L-tuned springs and struts"
The facts are:
1. The camber adjustment is maxed.
2. I'm going through tires (chewing the inside of the tires past the steel belts after 18 months and less than 14k miles) way too fast.
If the tires have extremely uneven wear that indicates the camber adjustment is not "within factory specs". Especially if the factory has tighter specs than someone like Pep boys.
So I must need a kit to allow for additional camber adjustment.
The facts are:
1. The camber adjustment is maxed.
2. I'm going through tires (chewing the inside of the tires past the steel belts after 18 months and less than 14k miles) way too fast.
If the tires have extremely uneven wear that indicates the camber adjustment is not "within factory specs". Especially if the factory has tighter specs than someone like Pep boys.
So I must need a kit to allow for additional camber adjustment.
#4
Rookie
iTrader: (15)
When it comes to alignment, camber and toe together will wear down your tire, but if you're seeing significant tire wear, then its either your tires (short life) or the toe is off. The toe wears out tires faster than camber does.
It doesn't matter if the factory adjustments are maxed out. What matters is that you're within factory spec. Even if you install an aftermarket camber kit, what are you going to adjust it to? The dealer will probably leave it the way it is since it's acceptable. Out of the showroom, your car comes with negative camber anyways for handling and safety issues.
Second of all, you need to inspect your suspension. Worn control arm bushings, caster arm bushings, steering rack bushings, tie rods, balljoints, etc will affect your tire wear. If any of these components are worn out, your alignment will be worthless.
I firmly do believe that camber is a cause of tire wear, but if you're within factory spec, then it shouldn't destroy your tires (assuming you do not have low threadwear tires).
It is not your camber that is the problem. I have the L-tuned setup on my car right now and I have no irregular tire wear at all. A buddy of mine with the Tanabe springs (lowers even more than our springs) has no issues with inner tire wear.
It doesn't matter if the factory adjustments are maxed out. What matters is that you're within factory spec. Even if you install an aftermarket camber kit, what are you going to adjust it to? The dealer will probably leave it the way it is since it's acceptable. Out of the showroom, your car comes with negative camber anyways for handling and safety issues.
Second of all, you need to inspect your suspension. Worn control arm bushings, caster arm bushings, steering rack bushings, tie rods, balljoints, etc will affect your tire wear. If any of these components are worn out, your alignment will be worthless.
I firmly do believe that camber is a cause of tire wear, but if you're within factory spec, then it shouldn't destroy your tires (assuming you do not have low threadwear tires).
It is not your camber that is the problem. I have the L-tuned setup on my car right now and I have no irregular tire wear at all. A buddy of mine with the Tanabe springs (lowers even more than our springs) has no issues with inner tire wear.
#5
Lead Lap
You would definitely see positive results if you install a camber kit. I believe there are some available for the 2GS, but I'm not sure who makes them or where to get them. I have a 1GS with Eibach Pro springs and it's not lowered much. Still, the car likes to eat front tires even with proper alignment, new ball joints, etc. It's the camber. For the 1GS, there is no kit that I'm aware of, but I think you may be in luck.
#6
Racer
iTrader: (3)
you may want to look into getting some roll center adapters (RCA). this will bring you lower about 1"(depending on how thick the RCA is) but it will bring your camber adjuster closer to factory adjustment range by raising your front knuckle location closer to factory specs.
simple explanation:
if your car is 1" lower, your front knuckle is 1" lower from factory location changing your suspension's geometry, camber..etc.
the 1" block will raise your front knuckles 1" allowing the front knuckle to be back in the factory location. this bring the range of adjustments back into factory specs.
results may vary depending on how low you are versus the sizes the thickness of the RCA.
i hope i made sense.
simple explanation:
if your car is 1" lower, your front knuckle is 1" lower from factory location changing your suspension's geometry, camber..etc.
the 1" block will raise your front knuckles 1" allowing the front knuckle to be back in the factory location. this bring the range of adjustments back into factory specs.
results may vary depending on how low you are versus the sizes the thickness of the RCA.
i hope i made sense.
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